rppngears91 Posted March 30, 2007 Share Posted March 30, 2007 Hey guys, looks like I wont be able to make it to my HPDE event with MID atlantic NASA, im very frustrated about it. I was wondering if there is any way to recieve a refund or at least a credit towards the next event?? THanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beerkat Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 You need to talk o the NASA-MA people. I think that they will credit it toward another event vs. refund. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FFR 99 Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 Go to the main page and click on Event Registration. Then click on the red lettering that says Cancellation Policy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rppngears91 Posted March 31, 2007 Author Share Posted March 31, 2007 yea i really dont want a refund, Id rather recieve some sort of credit towards the next event. All of the MA people will be at the track for the weekend, no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nasaregistrar Posted April 3, 2007 Share Posted April 3, 2007 yea i really dont want a refund, Id rather recieve some sort of credit towards the next event. All of the MA people will be at the track for the weekend, no? Yes, see the cancellation policy. IF we know you are not coming, AND we can fill your spot from the wait list, we can offer a credit to another event but no refund is available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Corkran Posted April 5, 2007 Share Posted April 5, 2007 I hope you have e-mailed Sean or Laura at this point to discuss this. I was waiting for you on grid. You're spot was sold to someone on the waiting list who was there when you didn't make the first classroom session. These days, NASA-MA events are always sold out, usually with folks showing up hoping to make it in off the waiting lists. BTW, questions specifically pertaining to Mid-Atlantic events should be directed to the appropriate persons from the contact page on the MA website, or posted in the MA forum section if you're not looking for an official answer. VIR has WiFi at the track, so Sean would probably have seen an e-mail from you during the event. I know he's even responded to NASA-related e-mails from me while he was on vacation with his family. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rppngears91 Posted April 6, 2007 Author Share Posted April 6, 2007 hey Frank im sorry about that!!! I figured you had already started heading down to the track by the time I figured out I wasnt going to make it. I cut it WAY too close and tried to finish up a brake conversion, but when I went to bleed the brakes it was all down hill. Im STILL working on getting the air out of the system, I think I may have a bad MC (brand new though??) I hope you can instruct me at Summit in June?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renntag Posted April 6, 2007 Share Posted April 6, 2007 Its best to try to contact them before the event so that your space can be filled. Imagine if you were the guy on the waitlist potentially missing your first session..... Did you bench bleed the MC before installing it? Did you try bleeding it at the lines at the MC? Bleeding brakes is fairly straight forward if you follow the basic procedures. Note for the future: If you are a group one student, dont make any last minute changes to the car. 99% of the performance to be gained at the track is between the driver seat and the steering wheel. Bigger or better brakes wont make much difference in Group 1...or group 2 for that matter. There is alot to be learned from working with what you've got. Driving within the limitations of your equipment makes you a better driver in the long run. See you at Summit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rppngears91 Posted April 6, 2007 Author Share Posted April 6, 2007 Renntag, Ive bled the MC twice now, hah. What do you mean exactly bleeding the lines at the MC? I have a fox body so I believe your fairly familiar with the 3-2 conversion. It was a stupid decision, Ive just heard disc on the rear of a Fox body are a necessity on the track! Ive bled brakes before, its fairly simple and I even have a helper pump the brake pedal for me, I dont know whats going on. Im starting to think I may have a bad master cylinder (brand new). Any input in appreciated!! I cant wait for Summit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renntag Posted April 6, 2007 Share Posted April 6, 2007 bleeding at MC: Simply, while someone applies pressure, crack open the a line where it attaches to the MC. Air may escape. If so, do it again. IF there is air in the MC then it cannot push fluid efficiently. While bleeding if it seems that there is not much fluid being pushed, then the MC needs to be bled or perhaps it is defective. Best of luck. FWIW: there are many CMC drivers that started racing with drums in the rear. RACING, after going all the way through the HPDE program and then comp school and into racing...... with drums. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Corkran Posted April 6, 2007 Share Posted April 6, 2007 I hope you can instruct me at Summit in June?? I'll be there. Everything Collin said. Have the car ready 1-2 weeks before the event, at least for your first year or two. Imagine if you had finished your brake conversion at the last minute, only to discover a problem/mistake out on track at speed? I drove for the first 11 years with stock 10" front disks/rear drums on my '83 before I upgraded to 11" fronts. And the pad choices back then (at least as far as I knew) were parts store semi-metallics or full-metallic race compound, which were too pricey for me then - plus I destroyed them just about as quickly. I always had 3 laps with brakes to get warmed up, then they were something to be saved for an emergency. I got quite a laugh when the driver of the CMC Mustang I was crewing for this weekend got out and said "I had brakes for the first 3 laps, then I could pick one turn to brake hard in every other lap!" Luckily, he's a Spec Miata hotshoe, so he's used to going long periods without touching the brake pedal. He made up for it when he did hit the brakes though. He managed to bend the pads into a 'C' shape. I guess the front hydraulics were working... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renntag Posted April 6, 2007 Share Posted April 6, 2007 [....the driver of the CMC Mustang I was crewing for this weekend got out and said "I had brakes for the first 3 laps, then I could pick one turn to brake hard in every other lap!" ... He managed to bend the pads into a 'C' shape. I guess the front hydraulics were working... Yes, that was pretty funny. But there again. In february my student was having trouble with brake fade in his WRX. he could brake hard in one turn every other lap. Same deal. We worked to go as fast as we could while managing brake heat. He said how it made him smoother and forced him to use the brakes less. He is now removing his fog lights and installing brake cooling ducts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rppngears91 Posted April 6, 2007 Author Share Posted April 6, 2007 last night i noticed that inside the MC reservoir, when the pedal was depressed the fluid bubbles and swooshed around inside?? Is it possible I need the bench bleed the MC again?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renntag Posted April 6, 2007 Share Posted April 6, 2007 No, just bleed it at the outlet ports. That is effectively the same as bench bleeding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rppngears91 Posted April 6, 2007 Author Share Posted April 6, 2007 I was thinking while I disconnect the lines to the MC, Id plug them shut n try and depress the brake pedal, if the master cylinder is good then the pedal will not move, if the seals are bad it will travel, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renntag Posted April 6, 2007 Share Posted April 6, 2007 I was thinking while I disconnect the lines to the MC, Id plug them shut n try and depress the brake pedal, if the master cylinder is good then the pedal will not move, if the seals are bad it will travel, correct? Sure, but why do all of that. try to bleed at the lines quickly and see what happens. If air escapes then proceed to bleed the brakes as normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rppngears91 Posted April 6, 2007 Author Share Posted April 6, 2007 I was thinking while I disconnect the lines to the MC, Id plug them shut n try and depress the brake pedal, if the master cylinder is good then the pedal will not move, if the seals are bad it will travel, correct? Sure, but why do all of that. try to bleed at the lines quickly and see what happens. If air escapes then proceed to bleed the brakes as normal. if air escapes that means the MC is okay i take it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TPetrosky Posted April 6, 2007 Share Posted April 6, 2007 Just a reminder to adjust your brake booster rod if you haven't already. If you don't, the result is loose/soft pedal. Master Cylinder Notes: 1. If you install a new MC or upgrade the calipers, you will need to adjust out the brake rod booster to take out the slack in the pedal; this is of course after being sure there is no air in the system. There will be about 1-2" of travel in the pedal that does not push on the MC bore. This is when you need to adjust out the booster. Adjust the brake booster rod out 1-1.5 turns. Click here for a diagram http://svo73mm.cjb.net/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rppngears91 Posted April 6, 2007 Author Share Posted April 6, 2007 Just a reminder to adjust your brake booster rod if you haven't already. If you don't, the result is loose/soft pedal. Master Cylinder Notes: 1. If you install a new MC or upgrade the calipers, you will need to adjust out the brake rod booster to take out the slack in the pedal; this is of course after being sure there is no air in the system. There will be about 1-2" of travel in the pedal that does not push on the MC bore. This is when you need to adjust out the booster. Adjust the brake booster rod out 1-1.5 turns. Click here for a diagram http://svo73mm.cjb.net/ Thanks but I did that prior to installing the MC. There is a tiny bit of travel but only about .5 inch MAYBE. Thanks again!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Corkran Posted April 6, 2007 Share Posted April 6, 2007 The flipside of a too-short booster pushrod is brakes that won't release, especially after everything gets hot. The CMC car I worked on had an SVO MC and SSBC T-bird rear brakes with Mustang front calipers, same as my '83. Ended up shortening the rod one full turn to get the brakes to release (mostly) when hot. I think the slight drag we still had after the race was probably due to the bent backing plates. BTW, when I did my SSBC rear brake conversion I had to bleed the brakes many times before I got all the air out. In my experience, gravity bleeding has always done the best job of working the last of the air out (except air in the MC). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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