cmchopeful Posted April 19, 2007 Share Posted April 19, 2007 I am running currently in HPDE2 and would like to get some advice on what brake pads would be good. I am driving a 2000 Z28 with the LS1 motor. I currently have Satisfied GS5 pads on it, ATE blue fluid and Stoptech braided brake lines. No motor upgrades yet, too soon at my experience level. The tires are Goddyear Eagel F1 DS-G3's. I need to replace the pads soon and need something for street/track use. I have ruled out the Hawk Blues , rotors are expensive. I thought about giong with Statisfied GS1 on the front and GS3;s on the rear with Brembo rotors. Opinions? Thanks, Mitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Posted April 19, 2007 Share Posted April 19, 2007 I run LS1 front brakes and LT1 rear brakes on my CMC Car. I use Carbotech XP10's and they work quite well. I also recommend Brembo OE blanks for rotors (~$62 a piece). They can handle the intense heat that these porkers generate in the braking system. This is a track-only setup. ...BTW, I tried to use Hawk HP Plus as a track/street pad on my old LS1 Camaro. They couldn't take the abuse on the track. I have not found a set of pads that are good for both the street and the track. The cars are just too heavy and generate too much heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renntag Posted April 19, 2007 Share Posted April 19, 2007 I also use Carbotech pads as Keith does and may I suggest keeping your current rotors with a decent street pad and then getting a new set of brembo OE rotors and Carbotech race pads and just switch between street and track set ups. Put the pads and rotors together in a box labeled for which corner they came from, marking inboard and outboard pads if they are the same, and swap them out at the track, or before hand if you use a trailer. I know several HPDE'rs that do this. If you are swapping wheels and tires for track use....how much more difficult is it to swap rotors? Atleast they are hat rotors and not integral hub style. hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmchopeful Posted April 19, 2007 Author Share Posted April 19, 2007 Thanks for the info on CarboTech. I did some checking of the Carbotech pads and found a pad that mat work. They are the CarboTech Panther Plus or the XP8 compund. Below are the descriptions of each. I know both say not recommended as as daily-driving street pad due to dust and noise but the rims are painted black already and I telecommute so noise shouldn't be an issue. If the noise and dust do become an issue I guess I be swapping pads and rotors. Panther Plus: A high torque brake compound delivering reliable and consistent performance over a very wide operating temperature range (150F to 1250F). Advanced compound matrix provides an excellent initial "bite", high coefficient of friction (0.54-0.56), and very progressive brake modulation and release characteristics. Panther Plus offers high fade resistance, rotor friendliness at all temperatures, and excellent cold stopping power. As a result, Panther Plus is an excellent choice for beginner-novice lapping day and high performance driver's schools on street driven cars using street or R-compound tires, eliminating the need to change brake pads at the track. Panther Plus has gained tremendous popularity with SCCA Prosolo/Solo2 competitors for its fantastic bite and modulation. In addition, Panther Plus has seen great success as a race-only pad on lighter improved touring and vintage race cars (ITC, etc). Not recommended as a daily-driving street pad due to possible elevated levels of dust and noise. XP8: A high torque brake compound with a wide operating temperature range (250F to 1350F). Outstanding initial bite at race temperatures, high coefficient of friction (0.58-0.60), excellent modulation and release characteristics, extremely high fade resistance, very rotor friendly and excellent wear rates. Excellent for ITA, ITB, Spec-RX7, etc race cars. Perfect for intermediate - advanced track/HPED use with R-compound tires, but still can be easily driven to and from the track. Not recommended as a daily-driving street pad due to possible elevated levels of dust and noise. Thanks, Mitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Tornado Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 I used even there heavy duty race pads on my car on the street and it was fine except in the winter it was a tad longer on stopping. They are the best in my mind for combo race and street pads!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 One last point about the LS1 brake setup - you will find that on the track, the car has too much rear brake. This can generate a little more excitement than you are looking for when you are pushing it. I've always (I just remembered - sorry) used a lower friction pad in the rear than in the front. This also reduces axle hop which will also jump up to scare the crap out of you from time to time. If you find a pad combination that you like for both street and track, report back. My new (to me) street car/autocross car/non-race track car is a WS6 Firebird and I have the following pads for it (previous owner supplied many of these): Fronts: Hawk HP+ (for street and autox) Hawk Blues (track) Hawk DTC70's (track) Rears: Hawk HPS (for street and autox) Hawk Blacks (for track) The car has a Baer track kit on it so the pads weren't as relevant for you and I didn't mention them previously. I haven't had a chance to run this car had on the track at 100% (OK, maybe a little hard at BeaveRun three weeks ago on street tires) so I don't know how this stuff will perform but it should be better with the big brake kit on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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