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Removal of Power Steering and Hydra Boost Brakes? worth it?


Robb373

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I am looking to lighten up my 97 cobra. I can see a weight savings in removing the power steering and losing the hydra boost brakes.

 

Who has done this? What is it like on the track without power steering or power brakes?

 

is it worth the weight?

 

any comments are appreciated,

 

Robb

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Power brakes maybe, but losing power steering is not something to consider.

Some will likely say that manual steering is no problem, but I believe that the miniscule HP and weight savings are not worth it.

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I'm keeping the power steering. I wouldn't ditch the power brakes unless you are changing master cylinders as well. I've driven the car w/o power brakes/steering around Summit Pt. It wasn't fun. Can you do it? Yea, can you do it while thinking about ANYTHING else, not really...

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I just finished a AI Fox body and was asking the same questions. I DID drop the power brakes and ordered the Maximum Motorsports master cylinder and adapter kit... as recommended.

I DID NOT drop the power steering... most said that would be a bad idea!

I ran Mid Ohio this weekend for the first outing in the car and I liked the standard brakes and power steering set up.

Good luck.

Ron

AI 67

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Thanks for the great feedback everyone.

 

I will look into the maximum motorsports master cylinder kit as a possibility of improving pedal feel.

 

Robb

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  • 2 weeks later...

I thought about these things on my 96 Cobra. I still have the stock stuff. IFF MM had a kit for the sn95 car, I'd think about it.

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I thought about these things on my 96 Cobra. I still have the stock stuff. IFF MM had a kit for the sn95 car, I'd think about it.

 

I've been looking into it and I don't think you are going to find a single master cylinder that is going to work well on our cars w/o power brakes. The only way to have good pedal feel w/o the assist is to move to Dual MC's. You can loop the PS lines and ditch the power brakes pretty easy.

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I drove a Daytona coupe with the Dual MC set up last year and the brakes worked but they didnt bite in a linear fashion. The initial bite was brutal, but it slowed the car well. Granted it weighs less than a mustang. I didnt get more than one session in it so couldnt get used to the set up, thus I cant comment with any authority.

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I drove a Daytona coupe with the Dual MC set up last year and the brakes worked but they didnt bite in a linear fashion. The initial bite was brutal, but it slowed the car well. Granted it weighs less than a mustang. I didnt get more than one session in it so couldnt get used to the set up, thus I cant comment with any authority.

 

The words 'Dual Master Cylinder' Doesn't imply that the brakes are setup correctly. Sounds like he may have had a prop valve plumed in there as well. A proper balance bar paired with the correctly sized MC's and caliper piston sizes, are also a requirement to good linear braking. I'm working through picking master cylinders now and after speaking with wilwood and tilton it seems like more of a black art than science. So to get it right you really need to experiment with different MC's.

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I know that they have been working with Wilwood and fiddling around with various combos for the last 2 years. I would like to drive a car with this set up that has good feel as I think there are many benefits.

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I know that they have been working with Wilwood and fiddling around with various combos for the last 2 years.

 

After 2 years of not good braking I think I would start looking elsewhere. So far I'm leaning towards giving tilton my $$$.

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There were many different brake set ups used during this time. Not just Wilwood.

 

For anyone else reading this thread....I am not certain of the exact component list used for the braking system in the Daytona that I drove last year. I dont want to be apart of bad mouthing Wilwood when I cant say their stuff caused a problem. I know several people using Their stuff with great success.

 

Just wanted to clear up any potential confusion.

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There were many different brake set ups used during this time. Not just Wilwood.

 

For anyone else reading this thread....I am not certain of the exact component list used for the braking system in the Daytona that I drove last year. I dont want to be apart of bad mouthing Wilwood when I cant say their stuff caused a problem. I know several people using Their stuff with great success.

 

Just wanted to clear up any potential confusion.

 

liar, you hate wilwood and want to see them go down in a ball of fire

(just kidding of course, both companies make very nice products, it's just been a little easier getting in touch and getting answers from tilton on my end over the past few weeks.)

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liar, you hate wilwood and want to see them go down in a ball of fire

 

Damn, my secret plan is out. ...Now what do I do?

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I spent PLENTY of web time researching the Tilton, Wilwood and lots of other companies single and twin master cylinder, and every other combination of master cylinder and pedal set-ups. Front mount, rear mount and remote mount included.

If you are in the process of building a racer from scratch, there might be some reason to do the multiple master cylinder set-up... but:

After a couple phone call to Maximum (I run a full Griggs set up so no "sponsorship" here) I was convinced that I would drop the power booster and bolt in their single master cylinder (1 1/8" bore) kit.

It includes the firewall adapter, master cylinder and a unreal STOUT brake pedal and lever. Be aware you will have to fabricate the brake switch, but no big deal.

I have only run one HPDE at Mid Ohio with this AI car but never had a problem with pedal feel. It's simple, works great and I don't see it as a high maintance set-up. Simple and low maintance is a GOOD thing!

Ron

AI #76 GT

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I was convinced that I would drop the power booster and bolt in their single master cylinder (1 1/8" bore) kit.

 

What is the pedal ratio, caliper piston bore sizes and number and how much does your car weigh? Do you have a prop valve in there as well?

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Now your asking questions I can't answer. I know the master cylinder bore is 1 1/8" but couldn't begin to guess at the pedal ratio. What IS a pedal ratio???

The car is a 90 Mustang GT and 2850 less driver, with 1/2 tank fuel. About 3000 RTRace.

How is your rebuild coming... are you doing Mid Ohio this year?

Ron

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Now your asking questions I can't answer. I know the master cylinder bore is 1 1/8" but couldn't begin to guess at the pedal ratio. What IS a pedal ratio???

The car is a 90 Mustang GT and 2850 less driver, with 1/2 tank fuel. About 3000 RTRace.

How is your rebuild coming... are you doing Mid Ohio this year?

Ron

 

wilped5.gif

 

RE Figure 1,

 

Pedal ratio is,

(A-B):B

 

So Assume A = 7, B = 1 that pedal Ratio is 6:1

 

Rebuild is coming slow, race car won't be ready this year, I put together a 02GT with 4v and IRS to go out and do some HPDE's with, I want to build the race car 'right' and not throw it together.

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