SN95 Weight

[robbodleimages]

I've got a '95 Cobra R that currently is configured as an SCCA Touring One car. That means full interior and exhaust full out the back. With a full 22 gallon fuel cell, a 200lb driver in the seat and Cobra R wheels with full tread Toyo RA1's, the car weighed in at a massive 3600 lbs.

 

When the car next gets to the race track it will have had the doors replaced with door shells, carpet removed, passenger seat(cobra racing seat) and tracks removed, Cobra R wheels replaced by CCW's and the driver has lost 10 lbs... We will also have one of DR Gas's new muffler imbedded boom tubes on it.

 

I project and improvement of 200lbs total there. even without the unnecessary 22 gallons in the fuel cell, the car will still weight nearly 3400lbs. I realize that a 5.8L is heavier than a 4.6L and it has a T-56 rather than a 3550.

 

I know that is still heavy to VERY heavy for most AI competition. What do your SN95's weight and how do you get there? Am I about as light as I am going to get unless I lose another 25lbs myself?

[Red Tornado]

I am trying to get mine lighter and it weighs 3,300lbs bone empty currently with me in it (not including cool suit setup).

It is basically gutted except full dash and stock glass and stock bumpers and body parts.

Figure remove bumper supports and go lexan all around and it could be 3,150lbs or so I am guessing.

This is a 2004 which I think is a little heavier than a '95 to start with.

[GT4Point6]

I can tell you that my door glass in my 01 GT weighed in at 46 pounds, carpet was 19 pounds and heater core was another 19 pounds (if you still have this stuff installed).

[nape]

16 ounces in a pound, start counting ounces

[marshallmosty]

Anything that doesn't help the car be stiff, accelerate, brake, or turn should be removed...

 

Take a cutoff wheel to all the interior sheetmetal that isn't already braced to the rollcage or holding something up.

 

Look at your front and rear bumpers and see what they are made of. My FOX mustang lost 33 lbs just by removed the rear stamped steel bumper and replacing it with aluminum C-channel.

 

Toss the e-brake (5 lbs)

 

As nape pointed out... lots of little adds up to a lot.

[Red Tornado]

See what your power levels are and then do the math as to how low till you hit 9.5rwhp to 1 and 9-1 on torque.

Just be aware some things like bumper supports may save you 35lbs but damn that is nice weight to have if you ever hit a tire wall.

[brian-groth]

My 95 Cobra R AI race legal car is 3671 lbs race ready........with passenger seat and full dash. (carpet, center console, ect has been removed)

 

My normal AI race car is 3341 lbs as I normally race it. ( I am running full balast of 150 lbs).

 

There is no way my 95R would be competitive in AI unless it was gutted to a level that my AI orange car is........it is just too heavy.

 

Brian

[pbr96]

Lexan is another good way to loose a few pounds and anything you can’t cut out or easily remove will start adding up in dollars per pound. We use to joke that once the car is built it cost about $100 per pound to remove extra weight, which is either lots of work for ounces or buying more expensive lighter parts.

 

AI legal body parts in carbon or fiberglass are bumper covers, fenders, hoods and trunks. My SN95 chassis has an almost all carbon body with a 351-iron block and substantial cage; it came in around 28-2900 with me in it full. My hood weights 7 lbs. for example.

 

I have a hard time cutting up and R which is why I sold mine and started with a body in white or blue as it would have it. But what else are you going to do with it, race it, enjoy it and if you put some history on it could it be worth more? It only matters if you sell it.

 

Cheers,

[robbodleimages]

I am sort of somewhere in the middle on the R question. Its is a car with some history of worth both in that it is an R and its racing history.

 

I am not terrible afraid to race it, as it has been wrecked on TV before and some battle damage won't ruin its value. On the other hand it is an R and so I am not going to cut and rip on it to win at all costs. If I want to win that badly, I will do as you and buy something more disposable.

 

I am curious what others have done with their's. If I can get the car down to 3300 to 3400 lbs, I will probably be satisfied. Its a pretty quick little car at 3600 lbs, makes plenty of power and handles pretty well with a rookie driving it. I would venture that I am not nearly driving what I have yet, much less anything else that could be found there.

[white_2kgt]

I am curious what others have done with their's. If I can get the car down to 3300 to 3400 lbs, I will probably be satisfied. Its a pretty quick little car at 3600 lbs, makes plenty of power and handles pretty well with a rookie driving it. I would venture that I am not nearly driving what I have yet, much less anything else that could be found there.

 

I had mine (00GT) down to 3400 w/ me in it (200lbs) and a full tank of fuel. Mostly tubular suspension (MM) alum 4.6L block no interior and not a lot of sheet metal cutting, oh and all glass and a gutted dash.

[robbodleimages]

Bowie, MD. Those were the days! Rips still there? I've been wanting to drive up to Annapolis and get some crabs. MMM

[white_2kgt]

Bowie, MD. Those were the days! Rips still there? I've been wanting to drive up to Annapolis and get some crabs. MMM

 

Rips is still there, I've never been though, my brother in law stayed there last year and he seemed to like it. We usually goto Jaspers up 301 for 'pub' stuff and Cantler's for Crabs, looks like it's going to be a crab weekend now!

[mcmmotorsports]

I can tell you that my door glass in my 01 GT weighed in at 46 pounds.

 

Is this a typo? Was that both sides?

[Red Tornado]

So if door glass weighed in at 41 lbs how come folks say you will only lose like 7lbs replacing the rear glass????

 

I would think the rear is equal if not slightly more than both sides so how do you not loose 20lbs plus going to lexan there??

[robbodleimages]

I have a rear glass for my boss 302 and a spare door glass. the rear glass is awkward because of its size but it is not heavier or as heavy.

 

in a 95 year car i could see where the rear glass is very light its not taking projectiles like the windshield nor it is considered part of the security system like the door glass. which is very likely the issue.

 

i bet a rear glass breaks far easier than a door glass.

[BtwoG]

Here is a pretty good summary of weight removal for SN95 Mustangs.

 

http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=44422&highlight=weight+reduction

[mwilson7]

A 302 based 04 body can definitely be brought down to sub 3000 weight with a 200 lb driver still using all the stock body panels. There would be LOTS of cutting and lightening of parts but it can definitely be done. Even with the portly IRS installed out back.

[ST#97]

A 302 based 04 body can definitely be brought down to sub 3000 weight with a 200 lb driver still using all the stock body panels. There would be LOTS of cutting and lightening of parts but it can definitely be done. Even with the portly IRS installed out back.

 

I believe my car to be around 2990# if I remove the passenger seat and that is with me (230) in the car. I could tell you my secrets but I would have to kill you. Based on my dyno from yesterday, I will have to weigh 3040 post race so pass seat stays and some ballast are in order or may get a cool suit. The biggest gain was using the aluminum bottom end of a 4.6 4V motor and using the 2V heads..90lbs right there. This is also with the heavy t56, all the MM parts you can get and the only non steel parts are a one piece fiberglass nose and pin on hood. This includes the MOOSEstang wing and Cobra R's...I am worried about running my villians in a 40 minute race without adding about 50lbs back to the car as it sits.

 

Without going full carbon on doors and a few other parts, I think the car is as light as it's going to get unless I decide to trim about 10hp/10tq with some timing changes. I think I have a pretty stout combo for now and plan on working on the suspension for nationals. Have had the car on track twice since the new work and it feels great. Hopefully the wet stuff from above will stay away this weekend and we will see what the car is fully capable of in Houston!

 

Matt

[nape]

Without going full carbon on doors and a few other parts, ...

 

Make sure you double check the rules first if you want to stay in AI...

 

7.4.3 Only OEM (or the equivalent replacement of same type and material) body panels may used in the American Iron Class except as noted in Sections 7.4.4 and 7.4.7.

7.4.4 Composite hoods, hatchbacks, trunk lids, front fenders, fender flares, and bumper covers (fiberglass/carbon fiber, etc.) are allowed within the power to weight ratio constraints of the American Iron Class.

 

I believe, without a doubt in my mind, that any common car that races right now (Fox, SN95, S197, 3rd gen & 4th gen F-bodies) can have a race weight below 3000lbs if you spend time planning the build and prepping the chassis before you fire up the electric glue gun to put the cage in.

 

Before the next race, I'll be down to 2970-ish pre-race, with 15 gallons of fuel.

[ST#97]

Before the next race, I'll be down to 2970-ish pre-race, with 15 gallons of fuel.

 

That was my point....no more weight without going to AIX... There is easily 60-90 lbs more I could probably cut out but it's sort of pointless given you need HP to push these things through the air with all the aero so I am using this point of 3040 as my compromise and see where it goes... I am just hoping I don't get a surprise when I get to the scales!

 

For the record, a 302 based 04 BIW was recently built in this region and was 2570 without driver and was full AI legal in it's build...so yes, you can get the cars down to minimum with a planned build.

[mwilson7]

Why so heavy?