Holster Maker Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 Well my car is running and has 5 ARC (sorting) Races on it, plus a bunch of NCRC Time Trials for seat time. I was thinking about AIX, however my sponsor retired, which gave me a shop w/mechanic anytime. Sad day for me, I have been with him since Mar 1999........moment of silence please! Now I'll probably stay with the ori plan of AI. But we over-guessed our motor a little (37). I need some thoughts........... Had it dynoed in BW @ 347/336 @ about 2950K # w/me. So say 310/327 needed. Now what? De-tune or add # (car is 2700) or ? Yeah I know. I'm fat! Retired guys get that way!! Restrictor plate worth 37 less? Has 331, 165 AFR, TS 2K cam, Victor jr, 650 Holley, l-tubes, x pipe, dumps and has PS/w-Pump. No tray or porting, etc. I really hate to mess with this motor, runs so nice! If I installed all (I mean ALL) of MM sus or whoever and give it about 50-80 more HP would it be okay for AIX? Say over or about 400 rwhp and Hooziers/suspension, etc. Car looks bitch'n and I'm trying to join you, just taking a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sidney Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 Bring it out as it is an run AIX. See what kind of competition you have out there in CA then make the decision to go up or down. If it only takes 400 rwhp to be competitive then it might pay to go up. If your competition is running 500 or more (like in the Midwest), then you'd better look at detuning. Bottom line...bring it on out now and race with NASA! Sidney Franklin AI #64 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mystic_Cobra Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 Check the CCR, I'm pretty sure there's a limit to the amount of ballast you can add. Bring it out and run AIX for the first event. I know of handful of others who have detuned to get the power in check, so that should be easy to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pederb Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 I would recommend to run in AIX for now, you can only have 150 lbs ballast and you are almost 350 lbs to light. The advantage is that there are less cars in AIX racing so if you are looking to gather points that would be the class to be in. But since you are a newcomer I would recommend to get more seat time, do a couple of races and see, you might love AIX. Let me know if I can do anything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holster Maker Posted December 4, 2007 Author Share Posted December 4, 2007 Sorry for the delay, thanks for the suggestions, they really helped! I have decided to run AIX in '08. I'll be handicapped for a while, but I'll keep adding enhancements as I go, probably a lot of them! It took 7 ARC races/7 NCRC TT's to sort it out and still on-going probably forever. I'll race north of the Tehachapi's tho, but who knows! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holster Maker Posted December 8, 2007 Author Share Posted December 8, 2007 I CHANGED MY MIND AGAIN!!! Back to AI and run ballast/detune some. I think with 150 ballast, add something.......... besides body-fat and take some timing out or replace the 1.71 rockers would do it. Anyway I'm coming! Where can I buy some neat flat ballast plates, say like two 75 lb plates and bolt to pass seat spots? or any ideas.............I have never added anything, not in my brain! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Tornado Posted December 8, 2007 Share Posted December 8, 2007 If it's computer controlled shouldn't be to hard to pull out that amount of power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holster Maker Posted December 8, 2007 Author Share Posted December 8, 2007 Has a 650 Holley! You're right, it would be easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nape Posted December 8, 2007 Share Posted December 8, 2007 Change the intake to a dual plane and the headers to shorties. That ought to drop it to a range where you can make it with ballast. As far as weight, wrestling with a 75lb chunk of steel would be a pain. You'd be better off using 25-50lb plates so you don't throw out your back trying to put them in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holster Maker Posted December 9, 2007 Author Share Posted December 9, 2007 Found these guys for ballast: http://www.nuclead.com/casting_custom_shapes.html http://www.alchemyextrusions.com/bricks/default.asp I'm about ready to change my mind and order the blow thru carb turbo from New Mexico............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99cobra2881 Posted December 9, 2007 Share Posted December 9, 2007 Im glad to see theres someone else that changes their mind almost as much as I did in deciding what class to run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holster Maker Posted December 10, 2007 Author Share Posted December 10, 2007 Yeah......I'm having a hard time with this! Running AI I have different work/$ to do, which could be spent making less weight and more power. Part of my problems are being many miles from a dynojet, bought new Kumho 710's, cut a lot more weight OUT, love power, any tire I want (dot) and enhancements. I'm actually thinking like Peder/Mystic/Sidney said earlier. I know I would be handicapped, but I would make improvements as I go and mainly have FUN! I have a little time to think...........My rear seal is leaking a little and I'll put a alum FW in we left out and go ahead with a new clutch/trans inspection while I'm there. I oftened wondered if a alum FW shows more dyno hp, I know it shouldn't, but never baselined/tested one, just ran them! But if it did, I would believe it! Ask 10 people and you'll get a split! Thks for the thoughts, it all helps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nape Posted December 10, 2007 Share Posted December 10, 2007 I have a little time to think...........My rear seal is leaking a little and I'll put a alum FW in we left out and go ahead with a new clutch/trans inspection while I'm there.I oftened wondered if a alum FW shows more dyno hp, I know it shouldn't, but never baselined/tested one, just ran them! But if it did, I would believe it! Ask 10 people and you'll get a split! Thks for the thoughts, it all helps! AL flywheel should show more HP due to less rotating mass but it probably won't be that great unless you had a heavy flywheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99cobra2881 Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 I'm not going out with any kind of expectations for my first season. Only hope I have is to keep the same paint on the car all season. If I do that then it will be a successful first season. Oh and getting on track would be deemed a success in my book especially seeing my last joke of a paycheck!! There's some serious hardware in AIX in some regions, but there's not much for NASA competition here in the central states so why build a car to the AI rules that will be raced in 1 maybe 2 AI races per year then get waxed in ITE the other 3-4+ races? Plus, I'd have to buy the obligatory RA-1s and another few sets of wheels. As crazy as it sounds, running AIX is the more cost effective option for me. I will be underpowered but thats probably, no that's definitely a good thing for my first season! Anthony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holster Maker Posted December 11, 2007 Author Share Posted December 11, 2007 Yeah.....your deal is a little diff, we have several AI's and not many AIX, but most of them have the power. However, more AIX's are coming. Where I live, AIX would be better too, concerning other Club Racing. Anthony, is the 99 cobra stock motor? I asked 2 top notch race mechanics today about the AFW dyno deal. One each way.........LOL.....time for a shoot-out! Like Nape. I bet there is some increase. Anyway, I know it helps exit speed! Saferacer.com has 25 lb lead ballast bricks for $35 ea. So say $210 for the ballast and probably 500 for shipping............say 50-75 maybe. But then, where is 6 bricks going? Have to drill them or have a box. Stuff like that cracks me up, better to just by 15 lb wheels/R6's and forget it. My drag car's rear wheels/tires feel like a gallon of milk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nape Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 Saferacer.com has 25 lb lead ballast bricks for $35 ea. So say $210 for the ballast and probably 500 for shipping............say 50-75 maybe. But then, where is 6 bricks going? Have to drill them or have a box. Stuff like that cracks me up, better to just by 15 lb wheels/R6's and forget it. My drag car's rear wheels/tires feel like a gallon of milk. If you're building a box anyway, go to a tire store and see if they have a bucket of used wheel weights. You'll probably get them free unless there's a law against it in Commiefornia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99cobra2881 Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 That's another thing!! Im not going to work dilligently at dropping weight off this car just to have to add lead ballast back in! The 99 cobra motor isnt stock. I need to assemble the shortblock but its too hot out in my garage right now, it's a blistery 26° in there! If I was in your shoes/location where one could run a full NASA schedule I would run AI. No questions asked. Too many 'big guns' in CA region AIX. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holster Maker Posted December 12, 2007 Author Share Posted December 12, 2007 Found some 50 lb ballast made from valve covers at http://www.speedwaymotors.com Now finding some restrictor plates, seems no sales, but everyone sure talks about them. I think you're right, about running AI, I'll get the ballast and probably drop the 1.71 rockers and take about 4 deg from timing....then see rwhp/weight. And buy more tires...........anybody need some 710's w/one race weekend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nape Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 Make the restrictor plates. 1/8" AL plate and hole saws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99cobra2881 Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 Did someone say "V710s for sale" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holster Maker Posted December 12, 2007 Author Share Posted December 12, 2007 (edited) Nape, yeah, actually thought about that. I know a cnc machine nearby and they once made me some brackets for one of my drag bikes. It really wasn't very much. I'll get the 650 carb hole sizes and make a few plates for the dyno guy. NASCAR uses four diff plates, I had a lot of study here. They have 1", 59/64", 7/8th and something else. Man those seem like small holes, however they are dropping 250-300 hp, like to 500 for two tracks @ 200 mph limit. Found some neat ballast at http://www.tungsten.com said he could make 150 lb plate at 1"x14"x17", wow that stuff is heavy! So he is going with 4 @ 37.5 @ 1/4" for handling. Now for the price/shipping, can't wait to see this!!!!!! Edited December 13, 2007 by Guest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holster Maker Posted December 12, 2007 Author Share Posted December 12, 2007 (edited) 710's.........yes I might sell them, if I'm going AI. Don't know about shipping them that far. Bought them 10-15-07 to my door for $1008 from Tire Rack. Don't know how much yet... 275/17's. my email is: [email protected] Mike Hall Edited December 15, 2007 by Guest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roadracetransam Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 Nape, yeah, actually thought about that. I know a cnc machine nearby and they once made me some brackets for one of my drag bikes. It really wasn't very much. I'll get the 650 carb hole sizes and make a few plates for the dyno guy. NASCAR uses four diff plates, I had a lot of study here. They have 1", 59/64", 7/8th and something else. Man those seem like small holes, however they are dropping 250-300 hp, like to 500 for two tracks @ 200 mph limit. Found some neat ballast at http://www.tungston.com said he could make 150 lb plate at 1"x14"x17", wow that stuff is heavy! So he is going with 4 @ 37.5 @ 1/4" for handling. Now for the price/shipping, can't wait to see this!!!!!! Just stop by your neiberhood industrial metal supplier. They all have scrap piles, with very resonable prices! You can find any shape size you want, drill some holes, some good fasteners, and you are ready to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nape Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 Just stop by your neiberhood industrial metal supplier. They all have scrap piles, with very resonable prices! You can find any shape size you want, drill some holes, some good fasteners, and you are ready to go. Exactly. I've got about 250lbs of 1" steel plates that were for shipping switch gear to work from Germany, they'll stack, already have holes drilled, and they were FREE! They didn't miss them at the scrap yard either since there was 20,000 lbs and the yard was only paying $.04/lb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holster Maker Posted December 14, 2007 Author Share Posted December 14, 2007 Man this was funny, the guy from tungsten got back with me.......somewhere close to $52.70 per lb, my ballast would be $7905 and he didn't say the shipping cost. I wrote back, I'll go with solid gold, thanks! Now that's funny! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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