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Replace stub axle too?

Tom #16

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I'm getting a grinding noise from the rear end. I've replaced the inner and outer wheel bearings and it's still there. After talking with Chris this weekend it sounds like I should replace the trailing arm. I did some reading and it sounds like the stub axle can also wear out and need replacement.


My question is how can I tell if it needs to be replaced? Is there a minimum diameter?

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CV Joints can make noise.


These are on the 1/2 shaft. They can replaced on the shaft or the entire shaft can be replaced.


Make sure you use new bolts if you pull the shaft off and make sure the surfaces are super clean using blue loctitie to put the bolts back in.


Those suckers are notorious for backing out. I actually had set of bolts back out at exiting the pits for a warm-up lap. As I went down pit lane they popped and I was stuck. My only DNF... Actually it was DNS.. My only one of those too

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Sorry, I left out some important details!


The noise only occurs during hard right hand cornering. Also, the left rear wheel has considerable play in it. So I'm pretty sure it's bearing related. Come to think of it, the CV joints on the left side are new- one of the old ones broke so I replaced both the inner and outer joints.

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With this limited info, it sounds like a wheel bearing. Once it's loose and damaged, it'll make noise even after tightened. My experience.

The rear wheel bearings take some super big torque numbers to get it right. Once one of the bearing nuts comes off, you need to buy a new one. There are 2 different torque specs depending if you have steel or aluminum trailing arms.

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Chris is on the right track. If you have replaced the bearings, checked the CV's ( by the way, bad CV's sound more like a horse trotting beside the car than a grinding noise) and they seem fine, then its time to look for for warn out spindles and trailing arms. I've seen a few so bad and soo heat cooked that the bearings have shattered, the spindles get soft and wobbly, and the inside surface of the trailing arm is toasted...


What year is your car? Trailing arms are yours for the taking if its a late model. You might call me...Let me know what you need..I'm not selling, but rather offering it to you...I have 2 sets of 87's, one set of 86, along with the axles ( rebuild the axles at your own expense of course).


By the way, we still have two sets of tube style headers, these are half the weight of the cast units...the other five are gone gone gone.


Lets see, maybe its time for a useless free parts posting...hmm...thinking....ok:


1- motor mount brackets ( aluminum brackest on the engine, that bolt to the motor mounts).

2-Air filter boxes.


4-AC compressors.

5-Oil Pans.

6-Oil Cooler assembly's.

7-Tiny little NOS systems..the type Eric S. has hidden in his valve stems. These are very small , compact units, can inject up to 15 minutes total time at the squeeze of a tiny button located in your steering wheel. HP gains have been averaged out at 35HP over a 15 minute burst. Total weight is less than 6 grams. About the same size as a small pencil eraser. Using a proprietary system, we are able to compress the NOS to the extreme that it becomes a solid fuel rather than a gas, and what would normally fill a 5lb NOS bottle fits into what we call the "valve stem cap system". Since they might be illegal in the series, we have decided to just give them away.

8-One battery cut off switch.

9-Crap, I need to clean the shelves, if you need anything, call me up...the only parts that carry a tag are the headers, other than that, the rest is free to a good home for the guys in the series.


No strings.


Take Care

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I'm interested in the air filter box bracket....the one that goes between the filter box and the top of the radiator, late model. Maybe the alternator and the kill switch too. I'm working on a 928 steering rack today, so I'll try to contact you tomorrow?

Thanks for the "Series Benefiting" offer.


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I've wondered in the past if the spacer between the bearings can get damaged, preventing proper preloading of the bearings and precipitating premature substitution.


Or maybe I've just been torquing them inadequately.


As for CV joints and their bolts - yes, having them come out can be a real problem and PITA. Am I the only one who's safety-wiring them? They're actually very easy to cross-drill for wire. Then it's just the fun part of learning the proper way to wire bolts up...

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In my post above, I mentioned I have trailing arms, just tell me what year...There is NO charge for them. Please, keep your money in your pocket for tires or something...but if you need the arms, they are yours for the taking.


Take Care,

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