Jump to content
Balroks

Cage builders..

Recommended Posts

Balroks

Who do ya'll recomm. for a cage builder/fab shop in and around the CFL area? Someone affordable too lol.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
TurboShortBus

I'm in the same boat with my 2004 Mustang that needs a cage. Here's who I talked to:

 

1. Takash quoted me about $2500. But, I'm told that if you pay him everything up front, your car will not be finished in the next 6 months. Also, as with any drag cage builder, you have to stay on top of him with road race specific rules and tube requirements (drag guys always put bends in the rear kicker bars).

 

2. Irish Mike's (yes, the tow truck and repair service) guessed at about $2200 over the phone, based on my pre-gutted car (I still need to meet with them). Check out http://www.irishmikes.com/imracing.htm.

 

3. MazWorx quoted me about $3200 for an SCCA-legal cage last year. He does good work, but that's damn steep.

 

4. The Team BDR guys recommend Auto Technik Racing down in SW Florida (http://www.autotechnikracing.com), although they typically build Miata cages. Mike Blanchard said that they built Lucy's Miata cage in something like 2 days for under $2000.

 

I'm becoming less afraid to sawzall the roof off of my Mustang, drop a cage in there, weld it up, and weld the roof back on. I already have a good MIG setup, but all I need is a bender (my buddy just ordered one) and a tube cutter jig.

 

Where are you in Orlando? I'm in Winter Park, near Howell Branch Road and 436.

 

Mark

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Gators2001

Anthony @ Race Car Builders has done lots of NASA guys and other types.

 

I'm taking my '08 Evo X to him on tuesday. Cheaper then some but not all. What sold me was his work on WARMPEPSIs car an EVO 9 and the fact that is all he does and has a list to get in. He is off this weekend and opens up on tuesday.

 

You should call around and try to find their work. Unfortunately its something that is not simple guage w/out getting someone's personal opinion.

 

What I have been doing the past couple of evenings...

IMG_0962.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jslindst

+1 for Anthony at Racecar Builders. You can call him at 772-219-9917. His shop is now in Stuart just off US1. He did my cage in my AI Mustang & has done a ton of other Mustangs in SFL.

Edited by Guest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Balroks

Ya Brian's (pepsi) cage was pretty good, he advised me that the guy would do even better on the next attempt. Although he's got a WRX now....traitor lol. Sebastian (spelling) whom has that sick, spare no expense, Black evo was the guy's first attempt so I think he's deff at the top of the list. Maz quoted me 3k+ too, but at least he's got the facility and it's close by...I've heard good and bad things about Irish's but i'll wait to hear back from your meeting i think. I'm located in a townhouse over in Metrowest area.

 

I also talked to Frank @ Xtremeboost and his brother-in-law owns Exhaust Depot somewhere down in Ft. Laud. and was thinking he'd sponsor the cage *woot* so we'll talk about that. I'll also give those other guys a call.

 

Guy with the blue X, i'm in the same boat, got the car started on the gut job. Ceiling and floor are stripped of everything + the trunk. Heat gun is your best friend with that sound deadening crap from hell. Gonna go for the dash this weekend and see what i can take away from there. Got an OMP wheel/hub i need to mount too plus i need to find someone to fab custom seat brackets for the Recaro SPG. Still trying to decide on gutting the doors or dropping the cash on CF doors...damn why can't i win the lottery lol.

 

Dunno of the PTx/STx question was pointed at me - honestly i'm not really sure what i'll end up in. My goal is to build the car proper with cage/fire/etc, weigh it out, dyno it again, and go from there. Been missing a LOT of seat time this year due to funds...but ya'll know how that goes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Gators2001

HEAT GUN is no fun!!! just makes a mess!

 

DRY ICE for the WIN!

 

Just did mine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
TurboShortBus
+1 for Anthony at Racecar Builders. You can call him at 727-219-9917. His shop is now in Stuart just off US1. He did my cage in my AI Mustang & has done a ton of other Mustangs in SFL.

 

Hey Jeff...I just called that number, and I got a recording that said that it's a "non-working number." 727 is a west coast area code, but Stuart is east coast...did he change his cell number, maybe?

 

Mark

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jslindst

Sorry Mark its 772-219-9917.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
kbrew8991
HEAT GUN is no fun!!! just makes a mess!

 

DRY ICE for the WIN!

 

Just did mine.

 

+1 - cold is the only way to go for removing that sound deadening crap

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Balroks

Where to get dry ice round Orl?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
kbrew8991

if you can't find it, those compressed air cans (used to clean out computers or whatever) shoot out a super-cold liquid when you spray them upside-down that works just as well. Finding dry ice could be more cost-effective though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Karl
Where to get dry ice round Orl?

 

check your phone book, a lot of grocery stores also carry it

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
obzezzed350
HEAT GUN is no fun!!! just makes a mess!

 

DRY ICE for the WIN!

 

Just did mine.

 

Not to mention it was alot more fun lol

 

 

Publix stores carry it, but call first. Also Party City or similar stores should also

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Gators2001

yea we got ours at publix.

 

 

 

 

Racecarbuilders is (772) 219-9917

 

He is off Monday. Thus why Tuesday morning is my drop off date and start time!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Balroks

Sweet, i'll have to hook that up for some other sticky items.

 

Gator, what design did he/you go with? Did he give you a CAD drawing or anything?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Gators2001

going loosily based on Brian's.

 

Why do you have anything your thinking about? Im all for more ideas.

 

Just trying to figure out what colors to make the bars.... Guess my blue X is going to look alot like Brian's.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Balroks

That's my whole thing right now, i wish i could CAD but i can't so it's hard to see it digitally, it's all in my head from hundreds of photos of other cages i've gone over, does anyone have any drawings of their cage structures?

 

I'm trying to get the design down so i can estimate around how much it'll weigh and how much g's it'll handle while also integrating chassis stiffening without going too little or too much. I like Brian's design but he could of done a lot more, but i'm guessing he didn't based on the TTA rules and such when he built it.

 

Basically i want to attach all 3 pillars, have 3 bars on the left driver much like he has, and 2 bars on the right in the X shape, halo like his with one diag, small vertical bar to brace the (someday) Lexan windshield, rear like his but with one diag, and small round bar on the bar behind the seats where the belts will go. Something like that lol. I'll buy someone a case of beer if they draw that up for me

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
kbrew8991

just talk to your builder, they've gotta make it anyways

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
TurboShortBus

Nasty wreck notwithstanding, you can forward this video to the 3:15 neighborhood and check out the cage design from a recent Aussie V8 Supercar:

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzmViM7DYTo&fmt=18

 

Note the windshield diagonal bar and the FIA-style secondary A-pillar bars.

 

Also, poke around here for various ideas:

 

http://www.e30m3project.com/e30m3performance/tech_articles/cage_symposium/cage_symposium.htm

 

I'm glad that the E30 site is back up and running. It's been down for the last couple of months, and it contains an excellent collection of roll cage photos from various racecars.

 

Mark

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Balroks

Nice...Thanks Mark. That is a....f*d up crash, guy should have seen the yellow, or the corner workers should have had a yellow out earlier. Notice also how the Diag in the rear separated due to him hitting on and behind the B pillar...wonder if its worth having bars in the rear doors....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
racecarbuilders

just wanted to say hi and thanks to gator 2000 for the plug ..many of you already know me in south fla. i see jeff lindstrom here ...he is one of my many florida nasa customers. ....you can see my work at racecarbuilders.com on the topic of strength the fia world rally cages are probably one of the strongest designs... but are also heavy and most of you arnt going over a cliff any time soon ...all of my cages are custom bent .so, i can do whatever you want my base price is based on scca base cage and then i charge per bar thereafter and turn around is usually just over a week ....fit is everything 2 me ...most of my cages can be stitched back to the body in many places without making gussets ...making one unit again,, that makes it very stiff and strong ...keeping the bars as far away from you and out of your view as much as possible ..a roll cage can be the worst thing you ever had to do to your car or something that is just there depending on how it is done ...we do about 75 cars a year if we can help you out please give us a call 772 219 9917 and we can set an appointment for you ...we are usually backed out about 3 weeks so please keep that in mind..yes we do do the drag thing as well a must if you only do chassis work... but i used to work on a gt-3 team so i know what you are looking for ...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Balroks

Whats your opinions/experience with the Moly vs Steel? (besides the obvious weight/cost)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
TurboShortBus
Whats your opinions/experience with the Moly vs Steel? (besides the obvious weight/cost)

For what we do, there is no weight difference, because we are required to use 0.120" thick (or whatever it is) wall tubing for both mild steel and CM; only NHRA allows thinner wall thickness for CM compared to mild steel, so that's why it's "lighter." I believe that CM is a tad heavier than mild steel when comparing identical volumes.

 

There is talk of CM requiring heat treating around the welds after being welded...blah blah blah, maybe it's true, but I'm not a metallurgist. Mild steel is good to go after being welded, though.

 

Mark

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
racecarbuilders

there are 3 typed of tubing only 2 are allowed ERW ELECTRONICLY WELDED TUBING it starts life as flat steel and is rolled through a series of dies into tubing and the seam is then welded ... usually bright silver and you can see a blue black line down the side where the heat discolored it NOT ALOWED IN ROAD RACING ..drag race mild steel cages only ...if you are going to a drag race chassis guy make sure he knows what he is supposed to use... i have seen them in my shop w erw had to cut it out and do over ...not cheap or fun ...THE SEAM CAN SPLIT ....DOM ..drawn over mandrel usually a med brown grey this is a type of mild steel it has no seams therfore stronger ...this is the mild steel tubing you should use...it has more of a tendancy to bend and absorb impact rather than breaking ....ask john force ...his funny car was built from 4130 .... 4130 molly almost black or gunmetal grey will have the # 4130 printed on the side along with the dimension of that particular tubing .....4130 is already a very hard material ....and is very strong ....but keep in mind molly must to be tig welded ....most people dont have a TIG welder in their guarage ....the tig welding process focuses the heat in a much tighter area therfore not overheating the tubing around the weld making it brittle ..the tig welding process is very slow in comparison to mig welding.... the fit must be perfect to be able to weld ....zero gap ...so the fit time is also longer.... you can expect to pay about twice as much for a molly cage as a dom mig welded cage ...i admit the tig welds are beautiful about 1/8 inch wide and almost invisible under paint as apposed to a mig weld that should look like a bead of calk flat and about 1/2 inch wide if it was hot enough to penatrate.... even my grand am cup cars dont go to the extra expense of 4130 you are better off putting that money into your suspension

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...