AMorgan Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 As a rough guess on the H22 (i've dynoed way too many H22s) i'd say 170-200hp with 160-180tq. This is purely a rough guess based on seeing dyno plots for about 40 or so different H22s. Granted, i've yet to see one at H2 trim on the dyno. All the ones i've seen are streeted H22s. I will say that for some reason the H22 seems to wander HP wise more than some of the other cars i've seen. The one in my car pulled higher HP stock than some of my buddy's modded H22s, and now that mine burns oil like it's got a 55 gallon reserve tank (rings are overrated) I'm making more torque than some of the more modified preludes in my group of prelude fanatics. I'll be curious to see what numbers this one pulls on a dyno, so I have an idea of where mine should end up at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeski38 Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 out of curiousity, what does a H2 spec H22 dyno at the wheels? whp and wtq? and what does a H2 spec H23a (out of the 92-96 Prelude SI) dyno at the wheels as well? My junkyard H23 makes 163 whp and 155 torque. I never had any H2 trim H22's, but if I go to nats in H2, it'll be with an H22. I'll be running the H23 weekend to weekend though, it should be a bit cheaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ekim952522000 Posted February 9, 2009 Author Share Posted February 9, 2009 out of curiousity, what does a H2 spec H22 dyno at the wheels? whp and wtq? and what does a H2 spec H23a (out of the 92-96 Prelude SI) dyno at the wheels as well? From my research 200/170 should be no problem for a H22 if you buy a good header and run a 3" exhaust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmeris Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 From my research 200/170 should be no problem for a H22 if you buy a good header and run a 3" exhaust. holy sheeet!!! that would be the engine to have even at 2600lbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMorgan Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 The trick is in the "good header" part. Hs don't have as many options (and a lot of them are actually more restrictive than stock). Those numbers sound pretty reasonable. The "good" headers are the SMS-P and Hytech, as far as I can tell, although the Mugen seems to yield good results too. The SMS-P and Hytech are all over a grand. Mugen is darn near it. Although a decent fab shop should be able to come up with something pretty decent as well. Parts are a lot more plentiful and cost effective for Bs, etc. (although Ks seem to be the new Hs pricing wise) But they do make some pretty nice power. I look forward to seeing more on this build and what kind of numbers you pull from that block. I will say most of they dyno runs i've seen have been below H2 spec on compression and a more restrictive exhaust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.KRAUS Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 My H22 made [email protected] do have a hytech header and 3inch exhaust.Before i put on the 3inch exhaust i had 2 1/2 exhaust and it made 204hp at 7100 rpm at 7500 rpm made 220 and at 7900 made 228 then fell off really bad.This was done at Red Zone.Then i went back put on 3inch exhaust and it put out 222 at 7100 and went to 228 at 8000.This made 18 more hp at 7100.I forget the tq.I think it was like 185 or close to that.My new motor is a h23 that Black-Trax built for me.Im hoping for 240hp to the wheels and 190 tq.Ill let everyone know what it does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmeris Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 My H22 made [email protected] do have a hytech header and 3inch exhaust.Before i put on the 3inch exhaust i had 2 1/2 exhaust and it made 204hp at 7100 rpm at 7500 rpm made 220 and at 7900 made 228 then fell off really bad.This was done at Red Zone.Then i went back put on 3inch exhaust and it put out 222 at 7100 and went to 228 at 8000.This made 18 more hp at 7100.I forget the tq.I think it was like 185 or close to that.My new motor is a h23 that Black-Trax built for me.Im hoping for 240hp to the wheels and 190 tq.Ill let everyone know what it does. I hope those are H1 numbers above. Just wondering what a H2 spec/built to the rules H22 does. And as far as headers are concerned, I heard stock works the best for the H series powered cars. Don't believe me? Try it in September... I run SMSP myself. Dave knows about flow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ekim952522000 Posted February 10, 2009 Author Share Posted February 10, 2009 More cool stuff arrived today. Walter Mckinney's Bushings are amazing quality and come with very nice instructions. Sorry about sideways pictures =P feeling lazy I'll fix em later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMorgan Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 Nice parts, this is getting good. My DD just ate itself tonight, so my prelude will probably sit a little longer. It needs to pull DD duty at this point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmeris Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 Mike, is the car/you going to be ready for the Feb, event at Infineon? Curious to see how it does on it's maiden voyage. Also curious to see H2 spec dyno #'s on your H22 jmeris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ekim952522000 Posted February 11, 2009 Author Share Posted February 11, 2009 Mike, is the car/you going to be ready for the Feb, event at Infineon? Curious to see how it does on it's maiden voyage. Also curious to see H2 spec dyno #'s on your H22 jmeris HA! I will be lucky to finish the car by the end of march. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zook Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 bumpstops on 3011's? And damn! Never knew the 'ludes had such long rear shocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMorgan Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 The rear tower in my 5th gen is probably 6-8 inches below the rear glass, it's actually hard to get anything beyond a small extension and a socket in there. 4th gens share the same basic suspension (I don't think they're identical, but you can swap shocks) so they've got some serious stroke to them. Although seeing the equipment you and Brandon are using, I may be in the market for new struts soon, those are way nicer than my konis. Darn this learning as I go thing. Oh well, at least I have some good info now. It's not like the car has to stay the way it is anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71dsp Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 Hello everyone! I just became aware of this thread, although I've been in contact on and off with Mike, and I have also talked with Adam some as well. I can't believe I never saw this thread, but better late than never. I'm not doing much racing this year due to budget constraints, but it's allowing me to catch up on some other projects for the car, although rebuilding the engine in my wife's Miata is priority at the moment. Anyway, I just wanted to share what I've done and what I'm doing now. BTW, it's a 98 Prelude, about 2670 with me in it. I did run 3011 Konis, and I was very, very happy with them. I was running them with the traditional Honda spring cap design. I was able to get a smoking deal on a set of 2812s, so I sold the 3011s and went with 2812s, but with an eyelet design. I haven't really had much time to play around with different adjustments, but it seems that they have worked quite well out of the box. Right now, I'm running them with 750 lb/in front springs, 950 lb/in rear springs, a Tanabe tubular front sway bar, and 1.25" x 1.88" tubular 3 piece rear bar. The car tends towards a bit of understeer, especially under power, as I'm using a Kaaz diff set up as it is out of the box (100% lockup). I tried setting the car up with more oversteer, but I couldn't keep the back of the car from wanting to lead! I have a very strong habit of trail braking more than I should, and it's been really difficult to try to stop doing that! I was running 225/50/15 Hoosiers on 15x7 or 15x8 wheels, but I recently changed to 17x8.5 RPF1s with 225/40/17s. I really want to try 245/40/17 Hoosiers, but the front fenders will require some modification. I'm not planning to run HC, as HC just isn't alive in Texas, so I've been running PTB where fender mods won't be a problem. I'm still undecided on 15s or 17s, but I'll likely stick with the 17s. As for power, I'm making 216WHP and 169WTQ according to my best dyno (STD correction), although I think the correction factor was a bit off. I think power is more along the lines of 205 to 210. I'd be happy to share any other details of my setup if anyone wants to know. Good luck with the builds guys. Mike the car looks awesome!! What are you guys doing for brake setups? Right now, I'm using OEM rear with Wilwood SL6 calipers and 11.75x0.81 two piece rotors up front. No ducting. The Wilwood setup up front is awesome, and fits with the 15x7 ProRace 1s. I'm thinking of upgrading to larger rotors, so I have to change the caliper too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMorgan Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 Hahaha, Billy speaks. Good info. I'm going to have to start keeping a notebook or something as I go with the tips and tricks i'm picking up. As far as brakes go (and I need to double check legality, I haven't gotten deep enough into the rule book on some of this stuff) my buddy has been talking over a setup with me, though it requires 17s. Essentially it's Ridgeline front brakes with RL brembo calipers (my understanding is their bracket is pretty much a bolt on) and the rear escapes me. I think it may actually be TL rear end, essentially. Basically big brakes without big budget. I believe he's actually going to test run the setup this year, and if it works out, i'm going to look into spending the money as well. Although i've got some time before my HC debut. Quite a bit of time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71dsp Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 Hey, thanks for leaving me out of the Hard Race order! I just placed an order with Jeff. Hopefully he's not charging me more than you guys! I've dealt with him before though. Great guy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vansprinkle Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 Hey, thanks for leaving me out of the Hard Race order! Sorry, I am probably more guilty of this than anyone. I was fortunate to get into it myself. Glad to see you're involved in this discussion now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ekim952522000 Posted February 17, 2009 Author Share Posted February 17, 2009 Hey, thanks for leaving me out of the Hard Race order! I just placed an order with Jeff. Hopefully he's not charging me more than you guys! I've dealt with him before though. Great guy. I thought I contacted you about it on Honda-Tech? If I did not sorry I intended to. On another note this is great this thread is becoming a huge resource for all Prelude racers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71dsp Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 No harm, no foul. I got the stuff ordered, and I believe Jeff gave me the same pricing, so no big deal. This will allow me to install the Hard Race stuff in my spare control arms, which I can put on the car while I figure out how to replace the sphericals in my current setup. Have you guys removed the door bars? I'm wondering how much weight that'll save and how it can be done. There's not much room to get tools in there to cut them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mlrmotorsports Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 you can always order from me also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ekim952522000 Posted February 23, 2009 Author Share Posted February 23, 2009 Ok so I pulled the engine out and ripped out all the ABS stuff now I just need to paint and clean up the engine compartment. (oh yeah and that run all new brake lines thing...) I got all the wiring and interior back in and all the paper pulled off from painting. I am always amazed how much harder a Prelude is to work on than a Integra If you got rid of everything that's says Honda on the car I would bet they were made by a different company =) Oh yeah and I was very happy the ABS unit weighted about 30lbs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaceTiva Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 Lookin good Mike. Thanks for the picture updates. Devin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmeris Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 are you going to paint your engine bay?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ekim952522000 Posted February 23, 2009 Author Share Posted February 23, 2009 ........ now I just need to paint and clean up the engine compartment........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John A Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 Why do you need to paint the engine bay? Just need some degreaser, soap and water. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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