Engine swap how to?

[Cory M]

Are there any good online articles or documentation on removing and installing 944 NA engines, hopefully with pictures? I blew my engine at my last event and need to replace it . I'm planning on removing it from the top rather than dropping it with the crossmember. I have access to a lift and hoist. Any words of wisdom or lessons learned you can share?

 

Thanks

[Weston]

I don't have a how-to that I can point you to, but after being involved in several 944 engine pulls, here are some tips:

 

- Remove the accessory belt pulley from the crankshaft, especially if you still have the power steering pulley too. If you don't, it will hit on the hood latch stuff, causing you to get frustrated and beat it with a hammer (thereby destroying it) until the engine can slip out.

 

- You will still need to drop the cross-member. You don't need to remove it, just lower it enough so that the oil pan will clear. And you can do it without disconnecting the steering linkage, but life is easier if you just disconnect it (try to mark the position of the splines so that you don't un-center your steering wheel).

 

- Keep track of reference sensor placement/alignment. That mounting bracket is adjustable, and both sensors have the same plugs, so it's good to mark what went where. It's not a big deal if you mix it all up, but it helps during re-installation.

[JerryW]

Experience here is once out the top -- all the rest out the bottom. As previously mentioned damage to the hood latch area is way too easy out the top.

[944-Spec#94]

I have pulled motors out the top and the bottom. Bottom is easier in my opinion.

[Cory M]

I was really hoping to avoid having to mess with the suspension and realign everything since it's set up good right now, but maybe I need to give in and drop it out the bottom... Is it just the latch area that's a problem? I have hood pins and don't use the stock latch so I don't mind cutting it off. Is the interference with the oil pan that requires lowering the crossmember just during removal or install too? My oil pan has a gaping hole in it where the rod parts came out so I don't mind destroying it the rest of the way to aid in removal.

[chris_venturini]

if you have hood pins then just take a mallet and hit the hood latch portion in (i didnt remove mine because the rules didnt explicitly say i could). then just drop the crossmember a bit to clear the oil pan and its pretty easy.

[Weston]

I was really hoping to avoid having to mess with the suspension and realign everything since it's set up good right now, but maybe I need to give in and drop it out the bottom... Is it just the latch area that's a problem? I have hood pins and don't use the stock latch so I don't mind cutting it off. Is the interference with the oil pan that requires lowering the crossmember just during removal or install too? My oil pan has a gaping hole in it where the rod parts came out so I don't mind destroying it the rest of the way to aid in removal.

 

It isn't hard to pull it out the top. You'll definitely need to lower the cross-member for both removal and installation... I just don't see a way around that, but it's not that bad... just disconnect the sway bar and then remove a few more bolts to let the cross-member fall down.

[JerryW]

I was really hoping to avoid having to mess with the suspension and realign everything since it's set up good right now, but maybe I need to give in and drop it out the bottom... Is it just the latch area that's a problem? I have hood pins and don't use the stock latch so I don't mind cutting it off. Is the interference with the oil pan that requires lowering the crossmember just during removal or install too? My oil pan has a gaping hole in it where the rod parts came out so I don't mind destroying it the rest of the way to aid in removal.

 

You could always drop the whole suspension with the cross member as a unit (unbolt the struts at the top of the strut tower) -- you'll have to remove the rear control arms mounting but could mark those pretty well.

[Cory M]

Thanks for all of the info guys, keep it coming!

 

Any estimate on how many hours to complete the swap?

[chris_venturini]

one million hours! muahahaha

 

 

probably 7 hours

[Chuck T.]

Depends on who is helping 10 -14 ... for a noob. 5-7 for the RMR cru

[Bailey]

Just wanted to say thanks to the guys who put this info here. I am mid engine change and what you guys put up has helped alot. Hope to see some of you out on the track sometime soon. Cheers

 

Bailey