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Classing questions for a V6 Mustang


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Posted

Looks like my Corvette will be down until next year, so I'm going to spend some money on the Ford to make it more track friendly.

 

Looking at the rules it looks like it starts out in TTF + 14 points.

So if I go to 17" rims I'll go to a 245 MM tire +7 and now its in TTE.

If I bolt on the Bullitt Suspension components it lowers the car 1.5 " according to what I've read.

Is that +14 or + nothing? Can't tell with the rules.

The only other modification I'm thinking about is going to the cobra brakes. They don't change the mointing points, but it allows a larger rotor. Unless I'm missing something that doesn't add points - correct?

 

Car is a 2001 V6 M5 on 205mm tires and if I had to guess (no timing equipment in HPDE4) I was turning about a 2min 30sec lap at CMP. Getting tires that don't roll over as easily and replacing the 140+K mile shocks, lowering the car a little and getting some air on the brakes should get me a lot faster in this car and everyone won't pass me. That way I won't be embarassed when I ask for a check ride. I would have been embarassed to ask for one at CMP.

Posted

Well silly me didn't read enough times.

Found the shocks, springs and caliper questions answered.

 

looks like TTF + 14, +7 tires(summito HTRZ II 245mm i think I'll use), +3 shocks, + 2 springs, + 2 calipers

So it puts me squarely in TTE?

 

Just need to check my assumptions and math.

Posted

TTE looks correct to me. Welcome to our lil group.

Posted
TTE looks correct to me. Welcome to our lil group.

 

Yea I hope to get enough of the mods done by Barber and get a transponder.

Then if I'm not embarassed by my lap times I'll have Jeff give me a check ride.

Posted

I wouldn't spend money on larger brakes right now. It will not get you any real performance increase.

Posted

that is if better components (pads, fluid) are adequate for that car - those were rated at 190hp iirc. If they've got the same stuff the GT has it should be ok - good place to save some points (and weight).

Posted
I wouldn't spend money on larger brakes right now. It will not get you any real performance increase.

 

Yea, I think all I can afford right now are the wheels, tires and suspension parts.

 

I'll get a set of HP+ pads for the current calipers, cause the stock pads are not aggressive enough so I'm on them longer. Then they heat up, then they start to fade, then they boil the brake fluid.

Posted

skip the HP+ (street/autox pad) and go straight to a real pad like a Hawk Blue or something in Carbotech's lineup.

 

- KB, daily drives on Carbotech XP8s

Posted

Your stock brakes should be fine for a while. I ran my 2004 GT with stock brakes (11" rotors and 2-piston aluminum calipers up front, stock junk out back, GTs and V6s are the same) with Carbotech XP-10 pads up front and XP-8s out back. Just make sure that your front calipers haven't spread open from time and heavy use, as this is a common weak point and they will wear the pads unevenly. Keeping the stock brakes keeps 2 points for you to spend elsewhere as well.

 

Mark

Posted (edited)

These guys are definitely offering sound advice. You can get most of what you want by using the right track (only) pad and great brake fluid. I think upgraded brake lines would also be in order. This will save you big money over the BBK. If it's not enough you aren't out much money. If it is enough... more money for tires!

Edited by Guest
Posted
These guyus are definitely offering sound advice. You can get most of what you want by using the right track (only) pad and great brake fluid. I think upgraded brake lines would also be in order. This will save you big money over the BBK. If it's not enough you aren't out much money. If it is enough... more money for tires!

 

How many seconds difference around CMP do new tires make on a BMW 5 series?

 

All of a sudden I thought to myself, wow I must be driving badly, I was keeping up with the BMW before

Posted
How many seconds difference around CMP do new tires make on a BMW 5 series?

 

All of a sudden I thought to myself, wow I must be driving badly, I was keeping up with the BMW before

I had a similar (but opposite) thought on Saturday... Wow I must be driving badly, I used to be able to run 4+ seconds quicker around here... Even w/ the fresh tires, though, I was never able to sniff my previous best times. I think it's a combination of CMP slowing down a little now that the new has started wearing off and a residual lack of confidence from Saturday.

 

BTW, Congratulations, you were getting around pretty well. Were your times better, worse, or the same as previous outings @ CMP?

Posted

I was surprised that even when the track was cleaned off on Sunday that times were still 1-2sec off Saturday morning.

Posted

Well I wound up with the tokico D-spec its a 16 way adjustable, but all 4 were less than $600 total.

Am I reading the rules correctly and its just the aftermarket shock points?

 

I put the 17" rims and a set of KDW's and on the street its like a night and day difference between them and the old 205 15" rims.

 

Shocks and springs go on next weekend!

 

Can't wait for Barber!

Posted
These guyus are definitely offering sound advice. You can get most of what you want by using the right track (only) pad and great brake fluid. I think upgraded brake lines would also be in order. This will save you big money over the BBK. If it's not enough you aren't out much money. If it is enough... more money for tires!

 

How many seconds difference around CMP do new tires make on a BMW 5 series?

 

All of a sudden I thought to myself, wow I must be driving badly, I was keeping up with the BMW before

 

Was feeling better when the BMW 5 series woke up on Sunday!

 

TTE was a tuff crowd - that is where Josh will land with his 83 Supra I believe....

Posted
Well I wound up with the tokico D-spec its a 16 way adjustable, but all 4 were less than $600 total.

Those are just the D-Specs with a single adjustment point at the top of each shock/strut, right? That makes them 16-way?

 

Mark

Posted
Well I wound up with the tokico D-spec its a 16 way adjustable, but all 4 were less than $600 total.

Those are just the D-Specs with a single adjustment point at the top of each shock/strut, right? That makes them 16-way?

 

Mark

 

From full hard to full soft is 7.5 revolutions of the adjuster.

I've got them at the "out of the box" setting of 5 turns. I'm going to try 4 turns for tomorrow's commute. It doesn't feel like they are keeping up with the new springs.

Posted
From full hard to full soft is 7.5 revolutions of the adjuster.

I've got them at the "out of the box" setting of 5 turns. I'm going to try 4 turns for tomorrow's commute. It doesn't feel like they are keeping up with the new springs.

Right, that's them...that makes they 16-way adjustable? Having just 1 adjustment knob, it seems to me, would make them 1-way adjustable...call me crazy. This could make a difference in your points calculation between Suspension/Brakes/Chassis rules 1 (+10) and 3 (+3).

 

Mark

Posted

I'll verify with Jeff at Barber, I'm pretty sure they only fall into the "replacement shock" +3 category. they were only $137.50 each - no where near the $600 each for the higher point addition.

Posted

Right, but you mentioned the other day that they were 16-way adjustable:

Well I wound up with the tokico D-spec its a 16 way adjustable, but all 4 were less than $600 total.
So, I immediately figured that one of us was off by 7 points, and I was pretty sure that it wasn't me!

 

Mark

Posted
From full hard to full soft is 7.5 revolutions of the adjuster.

I've got them at the "out of the box" setting of 5 turns. I'm going to try 4 turns for tomorrow's commute. It doesn't feel like they are keeping up with the new springs.

Right, that's them...that makes they 16-way adjustable? Having just 1 adjustment knob, it seems to me, would make them 1-way adjustable...call me crazy. This could make a difference in your points calculation between Suspension/Brakes/Chassis rules 1 (+10) and 3 (+3).

 

Mark

 

I would say there is 16 settings for one adjustment (compression?)

Posted

even if that one knob adjusts compression & rebound (which is rare in a single-knob shock afaik) its still just a +3 shock

Posted
I would say there is 16 settings for one adjustment (compression?)
Technically, there would be an infinite number of settings for one adjustment, since the knob doesn't click, it just turns. That can't be right...

 

Mark

Posted
even if that one knob adjusts compression & rebound (which is rare in a single-knob shock afaik) its still just a +3 shock
I'm with you on that one. I think most single-knob shocks only have adjustable compression with fixed rebound (or vice-versa). That's how most drag shocks are, anyway.

 

Mark

Posted
even if that one knob adjusts compression & rebound (which is rare in a single-knob shock afaik) its still just a +3 shock
I'm with you on that one. I think most single-knob shocks only have adjustable compression with fixed rebound (or vice-versa). That's how most drag shocks are, anyway.

 

Mark

 

good, so we all agree+3.....

 

The ones on my CMC Mustang have numbers so I assumed it "clicked" - they are still set the way we got the car - dnfwwinb....

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