oil cooler question

[Holster Maker]

Just curious how many AI folks run a oil cooler.

I always have run a cooler, however a notable nation-wide engine builder told me to remove my engine oil cooler. He stated it causes low oil pressure and he would rather have better pressure than cooler oil. Said he prefers it at 250-300*

I have a lot of trouble with this, actually it shocked me! Oil is usually 90-100* hotter than water temp, he said if your oil is too hot, you have a cooling problem.

........the more I think about it, he might be right, maybe I'm the misinformed one running a cooler.

My cooler has big lines (3/4") and not a cheapo cooler.

I'll try it, however I'm re-installing my oil temp gauge.

I once heard an old great engine builder say, "a oil temp gauge only tells you if you need better cooling" so he was on that track too, I guess! I know NASCAR warms their oil to 280-290 before they qualify, but have dry sumps.

I know I'm getting paranoid after 3 blown engines.

Any comments...........?

[Elvenhome21]

Nascar is using a special metal heat treating that makes the metal stronger at higher temps (300*f), circle track magazine had an article about it. 2 reasons they pre heat oil for qualifying, oil is thinner which provides less resistance = more hp, and 2 is makes sure the all the parts get full lubrication faster. I dont entirely agree with if your oil is to hot there is a water cooling prob, it could be that the clearances are very tight on the motor and the oil pressure is sky high causing excess friction by forcing to much oil thru the motor.

 

If you run synthetic oil you prob dont need a cooler, but by having a oil cooler it also puts less strain on your cooling system which can be a plus in summer. Your builder is probably scared that you have one of those cheap pressed plate coolers that dont flow a whole heck of a lot. If its bigger than an-6/ its plenty big for flow. A high volume pump with pressure around 60 above 3000rpm should be suitable for most race engines. This is based off a sbc but I dont think a ford has that radically different of a oil system.

 

What were the underlying causes of the last three motors.

[UBR]

We run a cooler. We also had chronic heat issues last season after we replaced a blown motor (broken crank). Water and oil. Didn't have heat issues with the blown motor. I assume new motor is much tighter. Mid season we replaced the in tank oil cooler with a remote one. This mostly fixed our heat issues except post race, sitting in tech or idleing back to the paddock. This off season we replaced the radiator and fans... No more problem.

 

If you're running a quality cooler with big enough lines/fittings, I feel it's insurance. Especially in the midwest summer heat.

 

j

[Grizlbits]

Oil is usually 90-100* hotter than water temp

 

A more normal ratio is 30 - 60 degrees, depending on where you measure the temperature. 90 - 100 seems like too big of a spread. I suspect other issues.

[92MNstanger]

What coolers are you guys running? I am in the process of installing a 25 row Mocal with -10 lines on my fox. Last August/September I saw oil temps well over 300 degrees (the gauge graduations stop there). I know this topic was beat to death on C-C.com but I still wonder what brand people use with their sfb's.

[King Matt]

No oil cooler, and no fan, and my engine has never seen more than 205 degrees F, and the last time I data-logged oil temp it was in the 230-250 range. Buy a good radiator and make sure the air is going THROUGH it, not AROUND it!

[Grizlbits]

Hey Matt, is that on your Vespa motor?

[King Matt]

Vespas are air-cooled. They run way hotter than that!

[ST#97]

no oil cooler here. Just another point of failure for a leak. Only cooler I use is the In radiator cooler for the power steering/hydroboost setup.

 

Oil temps run about 230-250, water temps in the 165 range, 185 when 4" off someone's bumper. The all aluminum motor probably helps this a lot though.

[92MNstanger]

No oil cooler, and no fan, and my engine has never seen more than 205 degrees F, and the last time I data-logged oil temp it was in the 230-250 range. Buy a good radiator and make sure the air is going THROUGH it, not AROUND it!

 

I was wondering if I should test the new ducting set up before I install the cooler to save some more weight hanging over the front wheels.

 

 

Do you run a thermostat or a restrictor?

[King Matt]

T-stat. The key I found when I built my new car was spending the effort to properly duct the radiator. I used sheet plastic to build a box around the radiator and block air from spilling around the sides of the core support. I also extended the lower deflector down about an inch or so compared to the stock piece.

[Micks 41]

Vespas are air-cooled. They run way hotter than that!

V-dub motors are air-cooled also!

[92MNstanger]

What coolers are you guys running? I am in the process of installing a 25 row Mocal with -10 lines on my fox. Last August/September I saw oil temps well over 300 degrees (the gauge graduations stop there). I know this topic was beat to death on C-C.com but I still wonder what brand people use with their sfb's.

 

 

I ran at BIR on Monday and saw a drastic reduction in oil temps with the Mocal cooler. Oil temp never got above 240 (sensor in the pan) and my water never got above 185. I did also add some radiator ducting...and yes my fabrication skills are at the novice level.

 

 

[horsewidower]

Nicely done. I've done the same type of ducting on mine. I've got the same bumper cover.

[92MNstanger]

Nicely done. I've done the same type of ducting on mine. I've got the same bumper cover.

 

I know. I pretty much duplicated your nose piece when you posted pictures of it. Now I need to find a good way to attach a splitter to it. I was thinking I'd have to weld the turnbuckle mounting tabs onto the bumper. You don't...uh....have any picutres of that...do you?