Jump to content

Rear wheel bearings


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have developed a howl in the rear end that Norm H. believes to be rear bearings. I have several questions that I need help with.

 

How often are rear bearings a problem? Do I need to have spares and the tools needed to be able to change them at the track?

 

What is the torque setting for the rear axel nut?

 

I have broken several 1/2" socket extensions trying to get them loose. Any ideas on how to get them off short of taking the car to a shop with a 3/4" impact setup. Even then, how would I get them back on to the same torque without going back to the shop? I don't know how I would be able to do this at the track if needed.

 

Ideas, gentlemen.

 

 

Thanks.

 

Big Dog

Posted

Here are a couple of links to the replacing the wheel bearings on steel and aluminum trailing arms:

 

http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/susp-09.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/susp-11.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

It says the axle nuts get torqued to 350 ft/lbs (368 for aluminum) and may require twice as much to break them free.

Posted

I'm sure you already checked this, but have you ruled out a sticky caliper? I had a rear wheel howling that I would have bet it was a wheel bearing, but it was the caliper not releasing fully because the little nylon slides had worn out and from corroded parts. There was no noticeable drag, just enough to make the noise. Pretty easy fix.

Other than that, no experience with the bearing.

Posted

Jim,

Glenn has had at least one rear wheel bearing fail on him. The quckest at the track fix is actualy to swap the the entire arm. Getting that nut off is hard and getting it tight is hard too. I would not try it at the track. Easier to swap the entire arm. The other issue is getting bearing out of the aluminum arms is not very easy.

 

Now while they can fail it is not that common. My guess is replace them once and forget about them for 5+ more years.

Posted

Jim, I was getting ready to change mine out since I do not know the history and wanted them to be new for Nats. I am planning on changing the fronts as well just for good measure.

I did not read the Clarks Garage report yet but my experience with Clarks has been positive. I had the process explained to me by a 944 guy who did it with a steering wheel puller and the proper size washers. I will ask him about getting the nut on and off. Access to a hydraulic press will most likely make this easier.

I have one Alu arm as a spare that I bought from a friend. Looking for the other side. Not sure which one I have at this time since I am not home.

 

We should ALL talk about spares soon to see who is bringing what.

Gotta figure there will be a few fender benders that will need fixing.

 

Charlie

#999

Posted

Thanks everyone for the information.

 

I have changed them on the new car I am building but the arms were out of the car and I took them to a shop to use a 3/4 impact wrench to get the nuts off and on and a press to get the bearings out and in. Not a problem that way.

 

I was hoping to do my Red 12 on the car but it sounds like trouble. I guess I will just remove them and change them the other way at a shop.

 

I will check the brakes at the same time just to be sure they are fresh and correct for Nationals, thanks for that suggestion, Gary.

 

Charlie, I do have both sides from a parts car. Good idea, Joe, to have spares and simply change the whole arm. I will have them for Nationals. Mine are for an 88, in case that matters for others that might need to borrow one of them.

 

Good idea, Charlie, to get some talk going about critical spares for both early and late cars so we, collectively, have all the spares we need to keep everyone running at Nationals.

 

Jim

Posted

I will start putting my list together and post it in a new thread.

I know this was done once before but an updated list for 09 Nats is what we need.

It will be about two weeks before I can post anything, leaving for Cabo Monday.

Need sushi for the Nats.

Posted

Rears aren't too bad. A torque multiplier, breaker bar, and a long jack handle will make it simple to get the axle nut off.

 

The noise could also be a failing bearing in the transaxle. I had one going out in my car. It would get worse/better as you loaded/unloaded one side of the car, just like a wheel bearing would. Don't know what kind of job that is, because I had a fresh transaxle built for my car--ie I didn't do the work.

 

-bj

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...