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Tire input....


ST#97

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Looking to buy my first set of non Toyo RA1 tire and get on the horse for ST2 at our March Event. I'm likely not going to be competitive until I can get the motor up to power level so I am not looking at Hoosiers purely because of the contingency as I won't be finishing 1st 2nd or 3rd anytime soon. So, I am looking at Eagle RS, BFG R1 and Nitto NT-01 (purely because they are so cheap in my size) as a solution to start playing with.

 

I've read reviews that the Eagle RS is as fast as a Hoosier and lasts maybe 10% longer. I have read the Tire Rack review that the R1 is faster than an R6 Hoosier and lasts much longer and is also quicker on lap 1 and lap 40 than an R6.

 

So, looking for input from the guys who have actually run these tires and looking for real world feedback and not magazine or advertiser hype.

 

Car will be a 2950lb American Iron Mustang running a 275/17 DOT on 9.5" rims. Might upgrade to 315's later but don't have the wheels for it at this time. Power is going to be around 9.4:1 for now with new power to come later.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

MW

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You should run skinny all seasons so that way when I get mine ST2 legal i'll have a chance!

 

But ya I currently run R1's and they are skicky as hell, have semi decent feedback when your pushing it too much (unlike hoosiers) and seem to be lasting, though I only have 6 heat cycles on them at this point. R6's I ran on a porsche, which handles totally different, however they performed amazing. Again as you stated, is it worth the price of admission if your not up front? Likely not. I also have a backup set of NT01's on 17's and I love them, get sticker as they wear down (3 years old now even), and are decent in the wet, and require no shaving. Plus I can drive around town to warm her up when there's no event.

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You should run skinny all seasons so that way when I get mine ST2 legal i'll have a chance!

 

But ya I currently run R1's and they are skicky as hell, have semi decent feedback when your pushing it too much (unlike hoosiers) and seem to be lasting, though I only have 6 heat cycles on them at this point. R6's I ran on a porsche, which handles totally different, however they performed amazing. Again as you stated, is it worth the price of admission if your not up front? Likely not. I also have a backup set of NT01's on 17's and I love them, get sticker as they wear down (3 years old now even), and are decent in the wet, and require no shaving. Plus I can drive around town to warm her up when there's no event.

 

I briefly looked at snow tires today! LOL!!!

 

After looking at the results from our first event at Houston, a switch to Hoosiers only might get me on the podium considering my past laptimes at Houston on RA1's....just need to buy that set of $2000 heads to get the 40 hp I'm missing for ST2. It would be nice to go to ST3 with just tires and 50lbs though... Hoosiers would more or less put me in line with the ST3 leaders and get more cars into the class. Turn out actually seemed a little low for ST2 and 3....maybe it wasn't such a good idea splitting them up?

 

Farmer is pretty damn quick though. I don't see Hoosiers and 40hp getting me to his laptimes (5.5 seconds). The Z06 seems to be the car to have. Going to see how I do with just a tire purchase first before I start making irreversible changes to what could still sell as an AI car. I'd prefer to be in a vette for ST2 but there ain't nobody buying race cars right now so I may have to make do with what is taking up space in my garage for now.

 

Thanks for the input. Looks like R1's are in my plan now. May look at Hoosiers later if I start placing for free tires.

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What I experienced in a stock s197 with shocks and springs at #3400 loaded, 275x18 C51 Hankooks best lap at Sears Point 1:53.32, jumped up to a 295x18 R6 Hoosier best lap 1:53.85. I don't think the weather had much to do with it, it is California. I will admit to having gone through a lot of Hankooks, but the feed back is great and they are much better on the brakes.They do like to snap in a slide. My first set lasted 40 cycles and still had rubber left. After that I would go about 20 to 25 cycles. The Hoosiers went to dung after 9 trips out on the track. After a total rebuild I have a couple of sets of Eagles to try out. There is a lot of guy's here that like the Kook's better than the Hoosier. The only draw back is their freak-in import!

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What I experienced in a stock s197 with shocks and springs at #3400 loaded, 275x18 C51 Hankooks best lap at Sears Point 1:53.32, jumped up to a 295x18 R6 Hoosier best lap 1:53.85. I don't think the weather had much to do with it, it is California. I will admit to having gone through a lot of Hankooks, but the feed back is great and they are much better on the brakes.They do like to snap in a slide. My first set lasted 40 cycles and still had rubber left. After that I would go about 20 to 25 cycles. The Hoosiers went to dung after 9 trips out on the track. After a total rebuild I have a couple of sets of Eagles to try out. There is a lot of guy's here that like the Kook's better than the Hoosier. The only draw back is their freak-in import!

 

i was told the hankooks get greasy after 4 or 5 laps even worse than a R888....any truth?

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After that I would go about 20 to 25 cycles. The Hoosiers went to dung after 9 trips out on the track

 

 

There's your difference... i find hoosier (a6) to fall off almost a second per session after like the 6-7 serious heat cycle... but when new?.. theres none faster.

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I briefly looked at snow tires today! LOL!!!

 

After looking at the results from our first event at Houston, a switch to Hoosiers only might get me on the podium considering my past laptimes at Houston on RA1's....just need to buy that set of $2000 heads to get the 40 hp I'm missing for ST2. It would be nice to go to ST3 with just tires and 50lbs though... Hoosiers would more or less put me in line with the ST3 leaders and get more cars into the class. Turn out actually seemed a little low for ST2 and 3....maybe it wasn't such a good idea splitting them up?

 

Farmer is pretty damn quick though. I don't see Hoosiers and 40hp getting me to his laptimes (5.5 seconds). The Z06 seems to be the car to have. Going to see how I do with just a tire purchase first before I start making irreversible changes to what could still sell as an AI car. I'd prefer to be in a vette for ST2 but there ain't nobody buying race cars right now so I may have to make do with what is taking up space in my garage for now.

 

Thanks for the input. Looks like R1's are in my plan now. May look at Hoosiers later if I start placing for free tires.

 

40 horse and tires should make a world of differance, then it's finding out line tricks and tune suspension, unless you've beaten those adjustments to death? I got some tricks up my sleeve for Farmer and them z06's

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40 horse and tires should make a world of differance, then it's finding out line tricks and tune suspension, unless you've beaten those adjustments to death? I got some tricks up my sleeve for Farmer and them z06's

 

would mostly have to fiddle with camber settings with the new tire, maybe some spring rates but going from Toyos to a real race tire is going to be the biggest adjustment. I ran Hoosiers back when I was seriously into AutoX and liked them, but they took too long to heat up and would get greasy and couldn't be driven hard without destroying them. If you get into a heated battle on track, I prefer a tire that is consistant whether I am cruising or beating the snot out of it. To it's credit, the RA1 fit that bill. Now if I know someone is on Hoosiers or Hankooks...they are dead meat if pressured hard. Part of the strategy of racing!

 

I'm leaning toward the R1's at the moment but those Nittos for $179 are just begging me to buy them! LOL!!! I would like to try the Eagle RS but just not enough real world feedback at the moment.

 

 

Thanks for all the input gang!

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I wouldn't bother with the NT01s, won't learn much about how your car does on top tier tires because they're not quite top tier (though maybe a good choice if you're playing the TT/PT points game). I'd get the BFGs if I was wanting to be a little cheap..

 

This is what I'm looking at for tires - ran these just to see all my options

 

205/50/15 front, 225/45/15 rear

 

RA1s shaved to 4/32 - $620

BFG R1s (225/50/15 tho) - $666

Hankook C51 or C71 - $734

Kumho V710 - $752

Hoosier SM6/R6 - $762

Goodyear DOT - $830

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Matt, I ran the 710's for a full year and love them when I was aix/arc racing. I wouldn't even think about it again, I'll order 710's in a heartbeat. Good wear, stick and very predictable.

 

Steve K, congrads on being the ST man. I'm actually going to run ST2 this year and was going to yell at you.

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If you get into a heated battle on track, I prefer a tire that is consistant whether I am cruising or beating the snot out of it. To it's credit, the RA1 fit that bill. Now if I know someone is on Hoosiers or Hankooks...they are dead meat if pressured hard. Part of the strategy of racing!

 

 

FYI If I'm on Hoosier A6s and your on RA1s the only time you will be pressuring me is when I'm lapping you

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Bah ya made it look like I said that But regardless if i'm on full slicks then you'll see me when I pass you both

 

There is only one way to find out, MMP Sept. , BTW who said I don't run full slicks

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Since were talk'in trash about tires!....

 

I hope to be on Hoosiers at Mid Ohio in 2011, so there will be another Hoosier ST-2 car that you will finish behind as well.

 

20091003_WGI_NAT_5925.jpg

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Really there is only one tire with the Hoosier Contingency, hard to beat.

 

Ken, which one to buy, A6 or R6?

I know A6 (autocross) is soft and how long does the R6 last?...can a person get a few week-ends out of them....like 5?.............LOL

My 710's seemed to last a long time...like 10-15 cycles or more. I remember a friend buying some old 710's and set a personal best lap w/them..cracked me up. Actaully he had the top time of the day in an autocross w/them "old wore out" 710's. Maybe this NorCal air isn't bad on tires.

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Really there is only one tire with the Hoosier Contingency, hard to beat.

 

Ken, which one to buy, A6 or R6?

I know A6 (autocross) is soft and how long does the R6 last?...can a person get a few week-ends out of them....like 5?.............LOL

My 710's seemed to last a long time...like 10-15 cycles or more. I remember a friend buying some old 710's and set a personal best lap w/them..cracked me up. Actaully he had the top time of the day in an autocross w/them "old wore out" 710's. Maybe this NorCal air isn't bad on tires.

 

It really depends, I never put a new tire on my car until about July last year. I basically ran the tire I bought & Ran for Nationals in 2008, I'll do the same this year.

 

I personally don't like the R6s, I ran a new set once and they were no faster than my old tires, but that was TT.

 

I have run A6s for 20 + heat cycles, so if you don't practice and only do qualifying & the race you might get 5 weekends. This is what I do, get a couple sets of rims have one new set of tires and one older set, practice on the older set and depending on who is running and how fast they are. Than make a desicion on whether or not you need the new tires or can get away with older tires. Now you risk giving up wins and places but it will save you money. It cost me a TTS National Championship because I was trying to save tires and didn't go out the last session and watched my time fall from the stands I may or may not have been able to go faster and at that point fresher tires for the ST2 Championship race was #1 piority). You also might want to look at the full slicks R80s and R100s I hear they last longer

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BTW I still have the R6s that came on my car unknown heat cycles and I've put about 30 heat cycles on them and they are still holding up. 2-3 seconds off the pace but great for HPDEs and learning new tracks.

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Since were talk'in trash about tires!....

 

I hope to be on Hoosiers at Mid Ohio in 2011, so there will be another Hoosier ST-2 car that you will finish behind as well.

 

20091003_WGI_NAT_5925.jpg

 

 

Car looks sweet

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