Jump to content
w650gb500

Thunder Roadster set-up help needed.

Recommended Posts

w650gb500

I may be getting a Thunder Roadster to do some NASA and SCCA events, but I want to get some set-up advise before I purchase it.

 

1. What rear gears should I look for? I figure I would run Pocono, Watkins Glen, Summit Point, Lime Rock, NJMP and EnglishTown. I know I'll have to get several, but a starting point is what I'm looking for.

 

2. Front and rear spring rates? I have heard #'s that are all over the place from 300-600#! Anyone have real world set-up specs?

 

3. Anything else I should know before I go and pick the car up or anything on the car that i should pay attention to when looking at it.

 

Thanks,

 

Dan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Darrel
I may be getting a Thunder Roadster to do some NASA and SCCA events, but I want to get some set-up advise before I purchase it.

 

1. What rear gears should I look for? I figure I would run Pocono, Watkins Glen, Summit Point, Lime Rock, NJMP and EnglishTown. I know I'll have to get several, but a starting point is what I'm looking for.

 

2. Front and rear spring rates? I have heard #'s that are all over the place from 300-600#! Anyone have real world set-up specs?

 

3. Anything else I should know before I go and pick the car up or anything on the car that i should pay attention to when looking at it.

 

I run a Thunder Roadster in the Southeast NASA.

Get the water cooled engine not the air cooled if you are keeping the stock 600 racing. Tinker and others in Fla. are running the Busa's.

I'm running a stock water cooled with a 293 rear end and front springs @ 300 and 275 in back and it seems to work well.

There are several of us running the in SE come join us. They are a blast to drive.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Lance Bazoo

Comments to Questions

1. I run either 2.94 or 3.33 depending on the track.

 

2. I run 275 front / 225 rear with re-valved shocks. My car weighs 1525 wet w/driver.

 

3. Concur on the water cooled motor. Make sure you have as much oil cooling & air flow as you can possibly can because that FJ motor runs hot.

 

4. Assuming you're purchasing the enclosed body style, once you get comfortable with the car & understand its handling/driving characteristics, try running on the longer/higher speed tracks with & without the rear wing. I find at faster tracks like VIR I pick up 2 - 3 seconds without the wing.

 

Its a great car. I run both NASA, Great Lakes - STR2- & SCCA - SPU.

 

Gary Klein

#333 Great Lakes Region

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BigKeyserSoze

I run a 2.93 gear full time. 275 front / 250 rear springs.

 

I have a water cooled Yamaha. Stick with water cooled.

 

I do not run the wing anywhere. I run on long tracks, Sebring, Homestead, Daytona, Road Atlanta, VIR. The wing is a parachute.

 

4 degrees caster. 1.5 degrees camber. Toe to dead 0.

 

I enjoy the car and I drive it hard.

 

-Scott

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Weed Wacker

I would have to say the same stuff as the others. Also, if your looking at the car, check a lot around the rearend of the car. The differentials like to crack at the pickup points so if its a used car these may be trouble spots. Putting them in double-shear almost totally fixes this, though.

 

You dont need to avoid an older air-cooled car if its the right price, because you can always convert it like we did. It all depends on how eager you are to get one. Either way it SHOULD be liquid-cooled though, so just decide if you want to spend on it now or later. We found the air-cooled motors would last 1/2 or 1/3 of a season, we are going into our 3rd year with the same liquid cooled motor. I would avoid a drum brake car for sure though, disc ones are everywhere so don't cheat yourself there.

 

If your choosing one gear to start out with i would say 2.93 as well, as long as you run the spec tire.

 

We run super wierd spring rates compared to everyone else but i think it has to do with our tire more than anything. I drove a stock liquid cooled car with the spec tire at a test day before the season was over that was 300F/250R and it seemed to work well. Don't remember caster/camber but we were running 1/16th toe out.

 

These cars are A LOT of fun. They are very forgiving, easy to drive and beg to be beat on. Plus, a sequential trans in a car this cheap!? One of the coolest things about driving this is coming into a corner, left-foot braking and using your right foot to blip the throttle without touching the clutch, just a quick wum-wum-wum- WWAAAAAAA out of the corner like a bat out of hell! This is all of course, with a scream that can only be made by an uncorked bike motor pulling the car around... Obviously

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
hufflepuff

Are there rules or guidelines specific for NASA thunder roadsters? Like, what engines can be used, disc brakes, ect?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Darrel

We are running a Spec Thunder Roadster class in the Southeast. It is still a regional class but we had 22 TR at our last event. PM me and I will be glad to share our rules.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×