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H4/PTE EF Civic EX Sedan (cell, dry break, enduro) *$12,000*


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This car was built with SCCA's ITA class in mind but some of you may be familiar with the build or have seen it at the 2009 ARRC. It's an amazingly clean one off example of this chassis. Build prep includes a complete tear down to the chassis, all sound deadening and undercoating removed, "body in white" prep, electric system stripped of any wiring that can be legally removed, and then subsequent reassembly.


It was recently classed in ITA at the same weight as the 89-91 Civic Si Hatch and 88-91 CRX Si. It has the hatch's more drivable wheelbase so it is easy to drive fast and extremely forgiving. It has the larger "Integra" sized front brakes (only available on the EX) so it doesn't suffer from the same front end wear and tear problems that plague the hatch and CRX.


This car isn't actually classed for HC so it would appear to roll in under the "Civic NOC" in H5. Realistically this is an H4 car and I'd expect for it to get moved there. I've run the math and spoken with some of the regional and national folks in PT and this car will end up on PTE pretty much maxed out in points but running on Hoosiers.


The build was primarily focused on a longer Enduro car while still remaining competitive in regional sprints. After having taken almost 2 years off during the build, I've had it out for two weekends and have been nothing but thrilled with it's performance. Most recently at the ARRC Enduro the car was running in a solid 2nd place until we ran out of fuel less than 2 laps from the finish (completely my error judging the fuel burn rate, still finished 4th). In the hands of the right driver, I believe that this could be in the top-5 car in the ARRC Sprint.


Vehicle Details

90/91 Civic EX Sedan w/ SCCA logbook

RARE non-ABS and non-Sunroof car

Competition Cages custom 8 point roll cage (built to NASA/SCCA specs)

All moulding and trim removed. Subsequent door holes have all been filled

New front and rear glass installed after the build

Painted Laguna Blue Metallic (available on 06+ S2000's... it's gorgeous)



.040 over OPM Built Engine w/ ARP head bolts (Full IT legal engine build, run only on Mobil 1 synthetic). Compression #'s were 205-212 across the board prior to the ARRC.

Puckett 4-1 header w/ 2.5" exhaust thru a "cherry bomb" style muffler and undercar dump.

RC Balanced Injectors

AEM Billet FPR

AEM Intake

AEM Oil Cap

Recent rotor/cap/plugs

Excel plug wires

Raxles axles



6 weekends on tranny after complete teardown and re-assembly by Blake Meredith (Meredith Motorsports, ex-Sunbelt engine/tranny builder).

4.7 ATS FD (REM'd and Cryo'd, installed by Blake)

OPM Diff (installed at same time as FD)

SPEC Stage 3 clutch/PP (4 puck disc with sprung hub)

No grinds or issues



Koni RACE shortened/revalved single adjustable "yellows" (no leaks)

GC coil over perches (700F Hypercoil, 1000R ERS)

Custom Speedway rear bar (1.25" diameter, 0.125" wall. Adjusts from 8.75" to 4.75" arm lengths)



Recaro Pro Racer XL seat w/ head restraint "wings" (easily the most comfortable seat I've ever been in)

Recaro side mounts

Recaro double locking sliders

Custom seat mount to chassis

ESS 3 nozzle AFFF fire system (rechargable and can be SFI certified)

Safety Solutions right side net

Safequip "mesh" left side net

Scroth FIA Profi harness (3" shoulder and 2" lap belts, can be rigged as "pull up" or "pull down") Expires Feb 2013

FIA High Density Roll Cage Padding

Longacre Wide View rearview mirror

GT Style left side mirror

Joes Racing convex right side mirror

Momo Suede Type V65 steering wheel

LTB quick release

Autometer Monster Tach w/ Shift light

Autometer Ultralite Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Water Temp guages


Other Details

ATL 22 gallon "enduro" fuel cell and bulkhead (stainless braided supply/return lines)

External dry break access

Discriminator/rollover valve for vent line

Tilton Left/Right rear brake bias levers (newly plumbed brake lines)

Goodridge Braided Stainless brake lines from chassis to brake assembly

Longacre kill switch and wiring

Custom Aux and Fuel Pump switches

Push button start

Sparco "retained" hood pins

2" Brake Ducting

AMB Hardwired Transponder

Working heat, defroster, and fan (great for cold/rainy days)

New, OEM Honda Heater Core


Maintenance/Build Details

2 race weekends since the build completed. The following items were new:

New Radiator

New Honda Heater Core

New Front Upper Control Arms (w/ new ball joints and bushings)

New Front Lower Ball Joints

New Inner/Outer Tie Rod ends

New extended lugs with "speed tips"

Aluminum lug nuts

Suspension arms stripped and painted black

New windshield wipers

New bearings and hubs at all 4 corners

New Calipers

New Master Cyclinder

New Wheel Cylinders

New Rear Shoes

New Progress Spherical Radius Rod Bearings

New OEM bushings and ES Poly throughout front and rear LCA's

New Mugen RTA bushings

2 sets of partially used Raybestos ST-43 pads (fronts)

Brand new set of front rotors just went on after the ARRC


Wheels and Tires

3 sets of 14x7 Team Dynamic's (1 set White with 2 cycle old R6's, 1 set Gun Metal with ~13 cycle R6's, 1 set White new in box)

1 set 15x7 ATS Comp Lites with full tread Toyo RA-1's (4 heat cycles)


Additional Gear

Sampson Radios TEK XT-900 (includes metal case, 2 radios, 2 chargers, crew chief headset, and driver headset)

Wired DL1 with DASH 3 (can be configured to replace all analog guages and show RPM)

15# ABC Fire Extinguisher for pit stops

2x 10 Gallon ATL plastic dump cans including 2 male dry breaks



Extensive list of spares (used unless othewise noted):

Complete oil cooler and remote filter assembly

1 stock EX tranny

Large crate of tranny parts (roughly enough to assemble another tranny but no tranny case)

1 stock D16A6 engine (believed to have a blown headgasket)

DC Sports 4-2-1 header (rough condition but useable)

500# Eibach Springs (Pair)

Intake Manifold

Distributors including ignitor (3)

Distributor cap and wires

Stock fuel rail

Fuel filter (2)

Stock front calipers

Stock front upper control arms

Outer tie rod ends

Stock air box, resonator, and intake tube assembly

Stock axles (repacked with new boots and vent tubes)

Stock ECU

Clutch cable

2 rotors (good condition)

Front lower ball joints (2)

Bump stops (cut down, stock parts)


Starter (2)

Radiator (metal tanks)

Box of assorted fasteners and suspension bolts

Borla XR-1 Sportsman muffler (new in box)

Aluminum Underdrive pulleys ( new in box for D16Z6 application)

Radiator Cap (new in box)

Bag of oil plug crush washers (new)

1 rotor (new in box)

Headgasket (new in box)

Oil Pan Gasket (new in box)

Front wheel bearings (pair, new)

Axle Seal (driver side, new in box)


With the demands of the triplets on my time and wallet, it's unlikely that I'll be able to get back on track for several years. My loss, your gain and all that. I have a stack of reciepts that you wouldn't believe for this thing and more parts that I realized. This is damn near a 10/10th's build and needs very little. The oil pan gasket and/or front main seal on the engine weeps very slightly. Not anything to worry over but it does coat the undercarriage with a film of oil over the course of a weekend. Everything else is perfect.


After the ARRC, the car has been washed, cleaned, and put on jack stands in the garage. I've gone through the car and nut and bolted it, inspected the brakes, adjusted the rear drums, bled the brakes, put on new front rotors, changed the oil, etc. It's 100% track ready at this point.


I have both a bill of sale and the title available for the Civic. If you wanted to, this could even be registered and street driven.


I'm also including for sale an open deck diamond plate type trailer. It's a dual axle design with brakes on one axle. I re-wired it a couple years ago to get rid of intermittent problems with the lights. It has a tire rack just behind the "Y" that will hold 8 wheels/tires. It isn't pretty to look at (could stand to be repainted) but tows fine and has no structural rust (it lives in Florida).


Price Drop (6-29):

$12,000 with trailer

$11,500 w/0 trailer


I'd really like to sell my truck but want the car gone first. Also, I could stand to have my garage back so we have a place to park the mini-van during the summer heat.





I also have factor manuals for the CRX Si, setup notes from the CRX that I used to have, setup notes for the Civic, and a couple Robic stop watches (they need batteries).



Corrected thread subject to reflect new H4 classing for 2010.

Edited by Guest
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And for some pics (I've got a TON more if anyone is interested):























































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This car isn't actually classed for HC so it would appear to roll in under the "Civic NOC" in H5. Realistically this is an H4 car and I'd expect for it to get moved there. I've run the math and spoken with some of the regional and national folks in PT and this car will end up on PTE pretty much maxed out in points but running on Hoosiers.



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This car isn't actually classed for HC so it would appear to roll in under the "Civic NOC" in H5. Realistically this is an H4 car and I'd expect for it to get moved there. I've run the math and spoken with some of the regional and national folks in PT and this car will end up on PTE pretty much maxed out in points but running on Hoosiers.






Page 6...

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Yep, my mistake. When I looked at the rules last year it hadn't been classed. It has now and is in H4 (where it should have been in the first place).


Thanks for setting me straight on the current classification!


Christian, wondering if he can change the thread title now...

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Christian, that is a brilliant build and it would be a boat load of fun in PTE.


Indulge me, please PM me the HP and weight without fuel.

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No worries. I'll post it up for anyone interested.


I had a power:weight base class established by NASA National. To fit into PTE, the car would need to have ballast added (or a big driver) to get it up to the min weight of 2355 at 126whp.


The car currently has the entire power steering assembly and rack. If PT/HC allow removal of PS components or swapping in a non-PS rack, you could drop some additional pounds and then add it back in with ballast.



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