Cobra4B Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 On my old Z06 I would run an aggressive but streetable allignment becuase it was a dual-use car. Now that I'm working on a dedicated track car I want to run a race allignment. On my old car my settings were as follows: Front Camber: -1.2 Caster: +6.8 (approx) Toe: 0 Rear Camber: -0.9 Toe: 1/16 toe-in per side For the "new" car I was thinking something along the lines of... Front Camber: -2.5 Caster: As much as I can get w/o sacrificing camber Toe: 1/16 toe-out per side Rear Camber: -2.0 Toe: 1/16 toe-in per side Am in the ballpark here? Can I acheieve this with the stock adjusters or do I need to buy something like the Hardbar camber kit? That allows you to run more camber than stock correct? Thanks, Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sperkins Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 I'm on stock hardware and I can only get camber to -2.1 LF, -2.3 RF, -1.2 LR & -1.0 RR. I just let the caster fall where ever it does. Total toe front: 1/16 out, rear +/- 1/4 in without driver. I need to place a really big order with Gary at Hardbar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra4B Posted June 27, 2010 Author Share Posted June 27, 2010 I'm going to order the camber and stud kit tomorrow... I read up on David Farmer's allignment guide and for once in my life I actually understand it all. It'll be nice to set the car up myself w/o spending $90 a pop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexaST-1 Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 Front negative camber is okay, but may want to slant it for the track direction. Rear negative camber is way too much. You will loose too much forward acceleration. It also depends somewhat on what tire you plan to run. Some need a more aggressive camber set up. Toe is perfect for most tracks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra4B Posted June 30, 2010 Author Share Posted June 30, 2010 Discussed the setting w/ Gary @ Hardbar a bit... he says the normal kit they send for RR cars will result in about 2.5 negative front and 1.3-1.5 rear.... he said anything more in the rear will hinder power application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drivinhardz06 Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 I run -3 front and -1.6 and -1.7 rear (the max I can get). stock lower bolts in the rear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra4B Posted June 30, 2010 Author Share Posted June 30, 2010 What setup are you running to get to those settings? Do you have any washers behind your upper A-arms or did you take them out? Do you futz w/ caster at all or do you take whatever the car gives w/ the washers/shims removed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drivinhardz06 Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 What setup are you running to get to those settings? Do you have any washers behind your upper A-arms or did you take them out? Do you futz w/ caster at all or do you take whatever the car gives w/ the washers/shims removed? right now it's a combo of stock rubber bushings and the Pfadt bushing kit, stock bolts and gary's lower lock plates all the upper shims removed I use the hardbar lower locking plates and his bolts up front. I think I got about -2.6 and -2.7 with the stock bolts, the lock plates took it to -3. I will be finishing up the bushings before the UTCC so we'll see where it falls after all that. if you run lower hoosier pressures you need a lot of camber or you will eat the shoulders fast. even with -3 I corded 3 tires at Roebling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra4B Posted June 30, 2010 Author Share Posted June 30, 2010 Cool.... I'm going to install it with no shims/washers and see where it falls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexaST-1 Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 What setup are you running to get to those settings? Do you have any washers behind your upper A-arms or did you take them out? Do you futz w/ caster at all or do you take whatever the car gives w/ the washers/shims removed? The actual key will be your tire temps. To dial it in you need to take hot pyrometer readings in three positions on each tire. Come in on a hot lap with tires fully heated. Then have a friend take the temps. The take hot tire pressures. Everyone has an opinion and these are just starting points. I have been racing C5s for over a decade. Tire manufacturers are different. We used to stand the Goodyears up and slam the Hoosiers over. I run a combination of LG Motorsports and Pfadt. Camber blocks in the rear and shims in the front, caster is what it is. Corvettes have great caster built in and it is hard to F' it up. I rarely change my alignment, it took 4 years to get right and I know about what I need for each track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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