Greetings...purchased car and the work begins...a few Qs

[Gray Matter]

Greetings and salutations!

 

My brother and I are planning on campaigning a spec 944 in the near future. We aquired an 86 944 that is in pretty good condition. Owner said clutch was gone and only asked $1500 for it. I changed out the clutch master cylinder and bled the system. Started it up and around the block. Clutch will stall the car before slipping. Power steering was leaking like a garden hose, so I disconnected it. I need to clean up the mess that fluid over time has left. In the short term, I think I will just close up the power rack and fill with grease. Paint on the front kinda sucks but I can respray it later. The ps leak reaked havoc on the front bushings. Sway bar bushings gone. Also, I am presuming the control arm bushings and ball joints are gone. There is play in the front. Thus, the reason for my first post!

 

After reading all the posts I could find on rennlist and here, It seems logical to replace the control arms with early steel ones. Any reason not too? Also, rules state the control arms can be strengthened.

Therefore, does anybody know where I can buy new steel pre-reinforced control arms that are already modified for the weltmiester sway bars? We live in Tempe, Az so Joe's and others can't be far.

 

Will post additional questions in another topic so this one does not get out of control. Thanks is advance and we hope to meet a few of you at the track (as an observer at first)

 

Brian Luse

[944-Spec#94]

Brian,

Paragon Products on the net sells new steel arms for about $25 each. They also sell new ball joints for $11 each.

 

I run my steel arms stock. I just drilled a hole for welt bar. Nothing to it really.

 

You do want to get the welt red rear caster block and the delrin front bushing for these arms. The stock rubber suck and I using the welt reds in front is useless. I toasted many before I got the first set of delrins ever for steel arm 944's. They still work great.

 

 

PS... i will be at the PCA dyno day this saturday with my spec car. I will also be at the PCA club race in couple weeks.

 

The dyno day is probably the best time to chat as there are no run groups or instucting to worry about. This group is really good about car prep. Little to no secrets about what works and what does not. We all want to see new guys get to speed qucikly and not waste time or money on things that don't work. Some of us have been there done that - screwed up that and happy to share experiences.

[mweeks]

Joe,

 

I am dropping in on this, but, what is the Weltmeister # for the caster block you mentioned?

 

I could only find a billet monoball piece, that does'nt seem like it would conform to the rules?

 

Thanks for your help.

 

MW

[944-Spec#94]

Here is rear caster block

 

http://www.paragon-products.com/product_p/welt_pb-1020.htm

 

Here is the control arm

http://www.paragon-products.com/product_p/pp171.407.153d.htm

 

Here is the ball joint

http://www.paragon-products.com/product_p/pp171.407.365g.htm

 

I don't see it listed, but call about he delrin front bushings.

 

[AZ Coupe Jason]

Congrats!!!

 

If you ever need any help I live on the PHX Tempe border, give me a shout..

 

JAson

[Tim Comeau]

Welcome, Brian.

I help run the show out here in the other hemisphere of Planet 944.

We have some great tracks in SoCal and some of them even have elevation changes!

Glad you took the time to do some homework on the class. As Joe Paluch said, we try to be very helpful in getting new guys built up and then up to speed on the track. That makes for more fun.

[Gray Matter]

Thanks for the replies! I appreciate the warm welcome.

 

The car's existing tires are very worn on the inside. Most likely as a result of a poor alignment and components. As with everything, one step at a time. The first order of buisiness is getting it street worthy and reliable (e.g. fix clunk in driveline and the loud tranny noise). I am betting the gear oil has not been drained in 10 years. Yuk. But as Robert Duvall almost said " I love the smell of gear oil in the morning"

 

 

So the list in my head goes a little like the following:

 

New front tires (for street)

Tune up and maintanence. Replace/fix what isn't up to task

Cap power steering for 'non leaky' manual type rack.

New front control arms, ball joints and bushings.

Records for the car are 'lost' so belt change required.

'lighten' car

Add Roll bar, sway bars, etc...

 

Buying a house in two weeks so it won't all come in at once. That does not preclude me from the inexpensive mods and helping others at the track. When I go to order parts from paragon should I mention the spec -944 for a discount? Any other advice for the rookie would be greatly appreciated!

 

Brian

[Tim Comeau]

Brian, I'll email Skip at PARAGON PRODUCTS and let him know you're coming. Before you get street tires, you might want to make sure your inner tire wear is not because of bad ball joints. I know you said you'd do this but I'm advising to move it up in the order before tires. I think they cause massive toe out when they go. You'll just burn up another pair of tires.

 

You meant roll cage, not bar, right?

Certainly come hang out and get to know the drivers and learn some stuff.

[944-Spec#94]

And... I forgot one thing.

 

To actully change to steel arms you need the rear caster block mount. It is not the same as on the aluminum arm cars. I don't think I have ever seen one sold new. I am pretty sure you can snag a set pretty cheap from 20th auto (they are at 20th st and Jefferson). They dont wear and junk yard parts should be good for this use.

 

For the ball joints and control arms they are soo cheap you might as well get them new. Biggest expense inthose are bushings. PS for the street you can use stock rubber bushings. The Arms come with these in front. Fort the rear you may just want to welts the rubbers are a bit pricey and not much cheaper than welts. I know the delrin fronts are little on the expensive side, but much cheaper than metal bearings and much much stronger then welt reds not to mention stock rubber.

 

 

Drive line clunk could be a clutch or CV joints depending on when it happens.

 

Hang out with us and build the car at your own pace!

[Gray Matter]

Brian, I'll email Skip at PARAGON PRODUCTS and let him know you're coming. Before you get street tires, you might want to make sure your inner tire wear is not because of bad ball joints. I know you said you'd do this but I'm advising to move it up in the order before tires. I think they cause massive toe out when they go. You'll just burn up another pair of tires.

 

You meant roll cage, not bar, right?

Certainly come hang out and get to know the drivers and learn some stuff.

 

Yes I meant cage. Trying to work and surf at the same time does not promote optimum brain functioning. The control arms will be very soon. I am not daily driving the car at this point, but the tires have cords showing and I am hesitant to even drive it to the new house. The Delrin front bushing will be put in with the control arms. I hate having to redo things. Will try and get approval from the 'boss' after closing on the house to get the required control arm parts.

 

Also, is 20th street auto a pull it yourself yard, or will they already have pulled the castor block mounts? I need to work on getting these parts now so they will not hold me up.

 

I have only driven 5 miles total with the car at this point, but the clunk occurs when I lift off the gas or apply throttle with the clutch already engaged. Does not happen everytime though. Will investigate more on Friday.

 

The fun begins. Brian

[944-Spec#94]

Also, is 20th street auto a pull it yourself yard, or will they already have pulled the castor block mounts? I need to work on getting these parts now so they will not hold me up.

 

I have only driven 5 miles total with the car at this point, but the clunk occurs when I lift off the gas or apply throttle with the clutch already engaged. Does not happen everytime though. Will investigate more on Friday.

 

The fun begins. Brian

 

20th Street should have them on the shelf. If not they will pull them for you. You may need to call ahead. I don't have their number handy.

 

Web site is under 20thstauto or something like it.

 

Your clunk is probably a failed rubber center the clutch. Clutch job takes a long time, but once done you should not have to do it again for long time. Just install a stanard spring centered unit.

 

Here is a link to a number of at home repair proceedures.

 

http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/repair-procedure-index3.htm