asifnyc Posted January 10, 2011 Author Share Posted January 10, 2011 Car is looking good, to bad i wont get to run with you this year! wait, what?! why? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboShortBus Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 Do an eBay search for "boom tubes." Used = cheaper. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firehawkclone Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 Car is looking good, to bad i wont get to run with you this year! wait, what?! why? Lots of reason's! No need to bring them into your tread. Good luck this year, and have some fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supermac Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 Do an eBay search for "boom tubes." Used = cheaper. Mark Be careful with most of the e-bay stuff, as it is Nextel cup takeoff stuff which is built for a gazillion horsepower! If you call Dr. Gas they will point you in the right direction, they might even have some sale stuff. And no I don't work for them, their stuff just works and it sounds bitchin! Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboShortBus Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 Be careful with most of the e-bay stuff, as it is Nextel cup takeoff stuff which is built for a gazillion horsepower! If you call Dr. Gas they will point you in the right direction, they might even have some sale stuff. And no I don't work for them, their stuff just works and it sounds bitchin! Lol Who cares? Dr. Gas makes many of the NASCAR boom tube parts, anyway. New, unfinished BTs (which need welding), without any pipes, are $200 + shipping from Dr. Gas. Used ones can be found on eBay for half of that (or less), with pipes still attached, so you will have extra materials to adapt them to your system. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supermac Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 Be careful with most of the e-bay stuff, as it is Nextel cup takeoff stuff which is built for a gazillion horsepower! If you call Dr. Gas they will point you in the right direction, they might even have some sale stuff. And no I don't work for them, their stuff just works and it sounds bitchin! Lol Who cares? Dr. Gas makes many of the NASCAR boom tube parts, anyway. New, unfinished BTs (which need welding), without any pipes, are $200 + shipping from Dr. Gas. Used ones can be found on eBay for half of that (or less), with pipes still attached, so you will have extra materials to adapt them to your system. Mark Because the Nextel cup stuff is way too big for our horsepower level. The crossover and boomtubes are sized for certain amounts of flow. We have quite a few guys in our region who have run their stuff. Try running dual 4" stuff into a 20" wide boom tube with 330 hp? No bueno, kinda like throwing a hot dog down a hallway....go ahead if you want. I just wouldn't recommend it to a friend, that's why I care. In fact Raybob has a complete Dr.gas setup laying in his garage that is a "cheap e-bay find" absolutely useless for anything under 800 horsepower! I'm sure he would make anybody a deal on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboShortBus Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 I'm not going to tell you how to fabricate exhaust for your car, but buying used NASCAR parts is a lot cheaper than buying new NASCAR parts. And, the boom tubes are basically just exhaust tips at that point, so the size of the headers, collectors, and other tubes leading to them (H-pipe, X-pipe, Y-pipe, or what-have-you) will have a greater affect. If you get a set of boom tubes with a pair of 3.5" or 4" diameter tubes leading to them, then just merge your 330 hp exhaust system into one of them with a Y-pipe, cut off and cap the other one, and be on your way. Single exhaust = less weight. But, spend and fabricate as you deem necessary. General calculations for cross sectional area: pair of 2.25" OD pipes = single 3.0" pipe (stock dual exhaust size for Fox and SN95 Mustangs, although stock mufflers are 2.0" OD inlet/outlet) pair of 2.50" OD pipes = single 3.5" pipe (perfectly fine for 330 rwhp) pair of 2.80" OD pipes = single 4.0" pipe Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asifnyc Posted January 10, 2011 Author Share Posted January 10, 2011 thanks everyone. however, I'm still not sure what to do. headers I'm running are 1 3/4" primary into a 3" collector. my primary concern is making any noise restrictions at any of the California tracks that AI runs. I don't care how much power I make if I'm not allowed on track. I was assuming I would have the muffler shop make me an x-pipe and continue the dual exhaust with some mufflers in there... what about flowmaster "race" mufflers? also, should I exit in front of the rear wheels (or do turn downs under the car) instead of running all the way to the back (for weight)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firehawkclone Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 thanks everyone. however, I'm still not sure what to do. headers I'm running are 1 3/4" primary into a 3" collector. my primary concern is making any noise restrictions at any of the California tracks that AI runs. I don't care how much power I make if I'm not allowed on track. I was assuming I would have the muffler shop make me an x-pipe and continue the dual exhaust with some mufflers in there... what about flowmaster "race" mufflers? also, should I exit in front of the rear wheels (or do turn downs under the car) instead of running all the way to the back (for weight)? Just the Norcal tracks Have sound I had to take off my dual side exit and put a single rear exit that I can clamp a turn on so it doesnt blast the sound Nazi/ hippies in Norcal. Dumping under the car can amplify the sound even more, and it might let exhaust gases in the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supermac Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 thanks everyone. however, I'm still not sure what to do. headers I'm running are 1 3/4" primary into a 3" collector. my primary concern is making any noise restrictions at any of the California tracks that AI runs. I don't care how much power I make if I'm not allowed on track. I was assuming I would have the muffler shop make me an x-pipe and continue the dual exhaust with some mufflers in there... what about flowmaster "race" mufflers? also, should I exit in front of the rear wheels (or do turn downs under the car) instead of running all the way to the back (for weight)? Just the Norcal tracks Have sound I had to take off my dual side exit and put a single rear exit that I can clamp a turn on so it doesnt blast the sound Nazi/ hippies in Norcal. Dumping under the car can amplify the sound even more, and it might let exhaust gases in the car. Damn smelly hippies...lol Back of the bus long hair! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bulletpruf Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 chassis paint... check mark. picked up the car today. insides are all painted. now I have to start putting the car back together and putting parts in/on it! received the lexan windshield I ordered a month ago and the engine is due to be completed the end of January. the fiberglass hood and front spoiler are due to arrive late next week. chances of making the first race are pretty slim at this point... but I'm going to keep at it and see what happens. other odds and ends... I bought a used ford 9" center section on craigslight. it's a posi with 3.25 gears. unfortunately I think the clutches are shot... don't know if I'm just going to try to replace the clutches or just use it for the carrier and put in a proper diff like a true trac or DPI... here's a pic of the painted cage. there's more info and a little time lapse video of me welding/grinding trim holes at: http://asifnyc.com Looking good, Asif! What front spoiler and hood are you going with? I've got an original fiberglass cowl induction hood on my car now, but thinking about swapping to aftermarket fiberglass. As you likely know, you can purchase a Track-Lock rebuild kit on eBay for less than $100, and they're easy to rebuild. However, the clutches probably won't last too long in a road race car. Keep the updates and pictures coming! Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swhiteh3 Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 There are lots of places around here you can buy all sorts of surplus NASCAR parts in person, including tailpipes. Bring cash, make an offer, and walk away happy. If you happen to be in the area, let me know and I'll point you in several good directions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asifnyc Posted January 13, 2011 Author Share Posted January 13, 2011 What front spoiler and hood are you going with?Scott I bought a fiberglass front spoiler and cowl hood from http://www.vfnfiberglass.com/site.htm. they just arrived yesterday. I'll post some pics and comments on the quality in the next couple of days. Heading up to work on the car today. Plan is to fill holes in the fenders and get them hung. If things go well I may try mocking up the hood today as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bulletpruf Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 What front spoiler and hood are you going with?Scott I bought a fiberglass front spoiler and cowl hood from http://www.vfnfiberglass.com/site.htm. they just arrived yesterday. I'll post some pics and comments on the quality in the next couple of days. Heading up to work on the car today. Plan is to fill holes in the fenders and get them hung. If things go well I may try mocking up the hood today as well. Thanks for the info. Please let me know on quality and fit. What about color scheme for the exterior? Have you decided on something yet? Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asifnyc Posted January 22, 2011 Author Share Posted January 22, 2011 hey Scott, I'm not quite ready to reveal the paint scheme yet but I will before too long I got the dash mostly done and I've hung the fenders and hood back on the car. The VFN hood seems good but one small thing I noticed is that it doesn't have holes for the front trim... I actually haven't decided whether I'm going to run the trim or not but just something to be aware of. I'm sure it's easy enough to drill them if you need them. On Sunday I'll be back with the car and am going to work on the grille area. not exactly sure what I'm going to do here. I don't have the black plastic headlight buckets. also, I don't have (and wouldn't use) the large grille housing. I do have the AMX screen grille and am planning to use that but it's more for looks. I need to fab something up to create a grille structure. I'm thinking of trying to just build a large panel and then cut holes in it for the brake ducts and radiator opening and just attach the amx screen grille to that... we'll see how it goes. here's some recent pics and as always, more at: http://asifnyc.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bulletpruf Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 On Sunday I'll be back with the car and am going to work on the grille area. not exactly sure what I'm going to do here. I don't have the black plastic headlight buckets. also, I don't have (and wouldn't use) the large grille housing. I do have the AMX screen grille and am planning to use that but it's more for looks. I need to fab something up to create a grille structure. I'm thinking of trying to just build a large panel and then cut holes in it for the brake ducts and radiator opening and just attach the amx screen grille to that... we'll see how it goes. here's some recent pics and as always, more at: http://asifnyc.com Still trying to figure out the paint scheme for my car. Had planned on doing the Woods/Revson since my car is yellow already, but it really needs a paint job, so not sure now. Also, I think someone on the left coast has already done a car like this... My other option is to go with the Penske paint scheme. Don't see any other option. Flat black would look pretty sinister, too, but can't see myself doing that. I'm trying to figure out the same thing for my grille. I have a 71 Javelin grille that I can use, but that's a big piece of plastic that's bound to get in the way, break, etc. My parts car has an AMX grille screen in front of a 72 egg crate type grille, but looks like the grille screen was bent on the ends to fit it. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacovini Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 I haven't checked in on your build as much as I should, but have to say, it looks great and we appreciate all the updates! Between the videos, the pics and the non-conventional American musclecar...you are a great example of grassroots AI racing! We hope to see more in the future. -=- Todd PS - The dash looks awesome too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asifnyc Posted January 24, 2011 Author Share Posted January 24, 2011 thanks Todd anybody have any recommendations on a good right side net? also, does it need to be SFI? CCR doesn't seem to state an SFI requirement... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboShortBus Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 anybody have any recommendations on a good right side net? also, does it need to be SFI? CCR doesn't seem to state an SFI requirement... See this link for a short discussion: http://www.nasaforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=38595 Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bulletpruf Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Asif - Any updates? I plan to start engine assembly this weekend, but you're light years ahead of me in the build process. Can you post any pics of your pedals and steering column area? Trying to figure out how all that is going to mount up. Probably going the same route as you - stock car type column, pedals mounted on the dash bar. Thanks, Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asifnyc Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 hey Scott, I've been lazy with updating the blog but just did a post about my grille plans. I've created a single piece to completely close out the front and I'm going to hang the mesh grille screen in front of that. Here's a pic of the template and also a pic of the steering column/pedal setup. one issue I'm running into is I'm not happy with the options I've left myself for routing the remote reservoir hoses. It's going to have to go DOWN from the bottom of the remote reservoirs, through the firewall, then UP to the masters... I got a reverse master pedal setup (with the masters towards the rear of the car) thinking that was the hot setup. now I think it would have been better having non-reverse masters going toward the front of the car (through the firewall). The engine got delayed because Milodon doesn't have the pickup ready yet for their new AMC road race pan. Pick up is due next week and engine won't be finished now until the end of the month Trans and bellhousing are in the works and should be here by the end of the month as well. btw - anybody reading this going to be at Infineon this weekend? here's a couple of pics: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IGZOSTD Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 Mount the reservoirs on the dash bar inside the car. The middle looks like a good spot. Some mount them on the right. Looks like you have the elevation you need and it keeps the fluid away from the exaust heat. Even if you have to cut holes in the dash top, you can see real quick if the fluid level is up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bulletpruf Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 hey Scott, I've been lazy with updating the blog but just did a post about my grille plans. I've created a single piece to completely close out the front and I'm going to hang the mesh grille screen in front of that. Here's a pic of the template and also a pic of the steering column/pedal setup. one issue I'm running into is I'm not happy with the options I've left myself for routing the remote reservoir hoses. It's going to have to go DOWN from the bottom of the remote reservoirs, through the firewall, then UP to the masters... I got a reverse master pedal setup (with the masters towards the rear of the car) thinking that was the hot setup. now I think it would have been better having non-reverse masters going toward the front of the car (through the firewall). The engine got delayed because Milodon doesn't have the pickup ready yet for their new AMC road race pan. Pick up is due next week and engine won't be finished now until the end of the month Trans and bellhousing are in the works and should be here by the end of the month as well. btw - anybody reading this going to be at Infineon this weekend? Ok, thanks for the pics. Looks like there are a few ways to skin that cat. Really curious to see how the grille is going to work out. On the Milodon pan, that's 6 quarts, right? Are you going to run an Accusump? I'm leaning towards an 8 quart Canton 15-554 or an Armando's 8 quart pan - http://aroilpans.com/Roadrace.html - and maybe no Accusump. Are you going with a beefed up T-5 trans? Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeP-99Z Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 viewtopic.php?f=31&t=39792 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asifnyc Posted February 23, 2011 Author Share Posted February 23, 2011 ok, latest updates... went to the the first race at Infineon on Feb. 12th to watch NO American Iron cars run Submitted my medical forms... Making progress on the dash, a little plumbing/wiring and other odds and ends. the big news though is the IFS and trans are being delivered this Friday Feb. 25th and the motor should be ready for pick up next week! oh, my damn wheel bores are too small. anyone know anything about enlarging them? more details at: http://asifnyc.com Here's a pic of the grille. I'm going to make/mount brake ducts to it, rivet the grille screen to it and paint the whole thing black. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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