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Toyo RA1 Heat Cycle..


CF03GT

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Just got off the phone with Toyo Tech Dept. They mentioned that their RA1's (as well as their 888's) are "ready to race.. no heat cycle needed".

I've always been under the impression that the first heat cycle was important (as well as the 24-48hr cool off/re-bonding time) for tire life (and keeping em "working" longer (?).

Whats the consensus with you guys? Still heat cycling em? Running em up to temp then blasting away on them right from the get go??

Thanks for your input.

 

-Chris

CMC rookie

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This is my second season and smarter guys will chime in...

 

I buy them shaved 4/32" and drive them,flipping as necessary along the way, 'til there's too much cord showing.

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Thank you. And I guess your reputation preceded you..

This is my second season and smarter guys will chime in...
no one else chimed in after you
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I have used them both ways with no real difference noted.

 

It is my understanding that the tire will last longer if you heat cycle them. I stop using my tires when they slow down. Sometimes that is at 15 cycles others at 20.

 

It is very important that you do not abuse the tire. If the tire has a blue appearance to it then it has been overheated. It will not work as well once this has happened.

 

If you are still in the beginning to intermediate stages of your learning curve of racing then use those tires untill they give you no more love (rubber).

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Thanks Charles.

I did get conflicting advice concerning the "blue tire" deal (among other conflicting data ). I was offered advice that during the first heat cycle, I SHOULD see the blue effect on the tire.. evidence of a good heat-cycle (in that I've "drawn out the (tire mold) releasing agent") ???

 

From everything I've gathered so far, guess I'll just warm em up slow first session, then run em hard (not too hard..) until they dont show their "love" no more.

Thanks

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My rule of thumb for RA1 (and 888 and Nitto NT-01).

 

If you shave them, run them fast out of the box. You've cut away all of the release agent and junk.

 

If running w/o shaving them, be gentle on them. The first session will get rid of the slick stuff. After that if you abuse them you can blister the tire as there is a lot more heat build up in a tire w/big tread blocks.

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For W2W race conditions you should definitely shave them. Full tread RA-1 can be a bit unnerving and downright scary when run full tread right from the get go. They get better right away after the first heat cycle, and continue to improve thereafter. But shaving is the way to go to avoid any unpredictable behavior.

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A Toyo RA-1 shaved should have one heat cycle put on them before you "pound" on them..

 

4-6 laps at about 60%, don't shock the tire !

 

let them sit for as long as possible (minimum 24 hours, the longer the better)

 

let them cool to ambient temp gradually (cover them with a blanket) keep them cool, dark and dry and out of the wind (when not in use). Wind actually dries out a tire incredibly fast, think wicking away moisture.

 

Then when you are ready to use them......on your out lap get some heat in them (hopefully close to operating temp) and go for it !! They should have grip and be fast right away.

 

This process makes them faster sooner and may make them last longer.

 

 

If you can't do the scenario above......just run them.........

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Thanks Charles.

I did get conflicting advice concerning the "blue tire" deal (among other conflicting data ). I was offered advice that during the first heat cycle, I SHOULD see the blue effect on the tire.. evidence of a good heat-cycle (in that I've "drawn out the (tire mold) releasing agent") ???

 

From everything I've gathered so far, guess I'll just warm em up slow first session, then run em hard (not too hard..) until they dont show their "love" no more.

Thanks

 

 

 

The blue comes from a tire exposed to the sun light.......it will even happen to a tire just sitting in the sun too long, even if it has never been on the track.

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A Toyo RA-1 shaved should have one heat cycle put on them before you "pound" on them..

 

4-6 laps at about 60%, don't shock the tire !

 

let them sit for as long as possible (minimum 24 hours, the longer the better)

 

let them cool to ambient temp gradually (cover them with a blanket) keep them cool, dark and dry and out of the wind (when not in use). Wind actually dries out a tire incredibly fast, think wicking away moisture.

 

Then when you are ready to use them......on your out lap get some heat in them (hopefully close to operating temp) and go for it !! They should have grip and be fast right away.

 

This process makes them faster sooner and may make them last longer.

 

 

If you can't do the scenario above......just run them.........

 

Thats the kind of stuff I'm looking for! Big thanks PTS! Cragsmoor, NY huh?! We spent many a days skipping out on school up there!

 

Thank you as well Kevin, and again for everyones help. Greatly appreciated!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Try not to laugh too hard, but just picked up a set of volk gt30 rims for my 6mt coupe, after a run ay NJMP this weekend on stock beef. Probably should have known better? But I didn't...first time I ever ran that hard, and was 'legal'.

 

Anyway, need a set of tires. Wondering what general consensus might be

If you can help out. Here are the rim specs:

 

WK3417EHBL-WK3437EHBL

Volk Racing Phantom Black GT30

19x9.5 +17

19x9.5 +37

5x114.3

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Try not to laugh too hard, but just picked up a set of volk gt30 rims for my 6mt coupe, after a run ay NJMP this weekend on stock beef. Probably should have known better? But I didn't...first time I ever ran that hard, and was 'legal'.

 

Anyway, need a set of tires. Wondering what general consensus might be

If you can help out. Here are the rim specs:

 

WK3417EHBL-WK3437EHBL

Volk Racing Phantom Black GT30

19x9.5 +17

19x9.5 +37

5x114.3

 

 

What comes to mind for race tires in 19" are Toyo R888 and Hoosier R6.

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