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Classing my Turbo Miata in TTB, but it looks like TTS


hustler

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Its not just you - its the regulars too

 

Did you get your new base class back from Greg yet? What is it?

The regulars hang on every word or refuse to listen? lol

 

I have no info from Greg. I'd like to revise my email (pull a few pounds out) but I'm worried with either annoying him or worse considering the turn-around time on classing. Hopefully my email was received and not living in a junk file.

 

If I don't have a classification, and I'm genuinely uncertain on where I'll end up, I may run another DE day. I'm running low on energy ATM and I don't really care anymore. I can block KenO and SixAce in DE4 so that should keep the day entertaining. I'm only running Saturday events so I will not be a factor in the season standings.

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How hard is it to look at the power/weight of the vehicle and give it a base class? Has Greg been in this thread at all?

 

He probably has a real job on top of being the national director.

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How hard is it to look at the power/weight of the vehicle and give it a base class? Has Greg been in this thread at all?

 

He probably has a real job on top of being the national director.

 

It's time to delegate. If this weren't the only game it town, I wouldn't still be on the hook for the classification.

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My guess is TTB* as a base. My base was TTC** and hustler has quite a bit more hp/tq going on. I need to get mine re-classed too as I've upped the boost and dropped a few lbs. No rush, can't make Houston, but will play in Cresson.

 

You guys have fun, be safe and bring back some bling.

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My guess is TTB* as a base. My base was TTC** and hustler has quite a bit more hp/tq going on. I need to get mine re-classed too as I've upped the boost and dropped a few lbs. No rush, can't make Houston, but will play in Cresson.

 

You guys have fun, be safe and bring back some bling.

 

That's the problem. If I get a "*", points push me over to TTA.

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My guess is TTB* as a base. My base was TTC** and hustler has quite a bit more hp/tq going on. I need to get mine re-classed too as I've upped the boost and dropped a few lbs. No rush, can't make Houston, but will play in Cresson.

 

You guys have fun, be safe and bring back some bling.

 

That's the problem. If I get a "*", points push me over to TTA.

Come on in. TTA is the place to be.

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After reading his response to you it reminded me of something. I sent Greg a pm to get our turbo crx classed. After a few days he pm'd back that I had to send an email, not pm. I copy/pasted my info in an email, and within a few days got my re-class. Another thing that stands out is that he's explaining what info he needs from you. like he didn't have what he needed to re-class you. Either way, it'll be fun to beat up on some vettes. I'm just signing up for tta and not worry about it.

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Hustler, you can get whatever base class that you want.

 

In your situation, you should dyno your car, add a safety factor and then submit that as your max HP. Then tell Greg what base class that you want and let him tell you what your weight will be.

 

If the weight is too great then you'll need to reduce your HP, wash, rinse, and repeat. There's nothing wrong with adjusting your car to the class that you want to be in, you just have to give Greg the right info to get what you want.

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Hustler, you can get whatever base class that you want.

 

In your situation, you should dyno your car, add a safety factor and then submit that as your max HP. Then tell Greg what base class that you want and let him tell you what your weight will be.

 

If the weight is too great then you'll need to reduce your HP, wash, rinse, and repeat. There's nothing wrong with adjusting your car to the class that you want to be in, you just have to give Greg the right info to get what you want.

 

I sent that information in on 1/10/11, with a dyno; the 2+week turn-around time is going to preclude any sort of conversation you've suggested. Some might say I waited until the last minute for classing, I thought 15-days was enough time.

 

With that said, and the number requirement, I just bought lettering for TTB so hopefully I guessed correctly, hopefully Greg does not give me an asterisk because that puts me into TTA.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions and assistance to everyone. I'll see most of you guys this weekend.

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  • National Staff

Trey,

 

Sorry, I've been sent a ton of e-mail requests since the new year started. Yours will get sent out tomorrow. However, with the numbers you sent, 233 rwhp and 2410 lbs. It is right between a TTB* and TTB** base class (which means you get the TTB** re-class). You will be sent options for higher weight for the TTB* re-class. There is no way that we will class a Miata at essentially the maximum of the Adjusted Wt/Hp Ratio for the TTB competition class with a TTB (no asterisk) re-class. I believe that Ken B. posted something similar to this already. If you want max power in a Miata, then you go to TTS, or you give up on handling mods. Otherwise, TTB is just a miniature version of TTS for you, while everyone else deals with the "power vs handling" struggle.

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Trey,

 

Sorry, I've been sent a ton of e-mail requests since the new year started. Yours will get sent out tomorrow. However, with the numbers you sent, 233 rwhp and 2410 lbs. It is right between a TTB* and TTB** base class (which means you get the TTB** re-class). You will be sent options for higher weight for the TTB* re-class. There is no way that we will class a Miata at essentially the maximum of the Adjusted Wt/Hp Ratio for the TTB competition class with a TTB (no asterisk) re-class. I believe that Ken B. posted something similar to this already. If you want max power in a Miata, then you go to TTS, or you give up on handling mods. Otherwise, TTB is just a miniature version of TTS for you, while everyone else deals with the "power vs handling" struggle.

 

Ah yes, the pain or the poor man's super car. I have 15-points on mod's so I'm looking at TTA. Can you please provide a little more detail on the comparison from the last two sentences?

 

Thanks, I'm going to send you an email right now clarify my FINAL power numbers and weight from the education I received in this thread.

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If I remember correctly, the PTA national champion did it in a Miata with 195whp while setting the track record.

 

I doubt that you're going to get a dyno reclass to stay in TTB at 2400 lb with 230whp.

 

If you're going to push over 200hp and stay in B you're going to have to add enough weight to put the Miata on its' bumpstops.

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If I remember correctly, the PTA national champion did it in a Miata with 195whp while setting the track record.

 

I doubt that you're going to get a dyno reclass to stay in TTB at 2400 lb with 230whp.

 

If you're going to push over 200hp and stay in B you're going to have to add enough weight to put the Miata on its' bump stops.

 

 

Last year my 210hp/2455 miata was classed TTC**.

 

Apparently this year 20 more hp and -55 lbs is worth one full class bump, or more. That being said, I'm sure it's no simple task trying to be fair with some of the stuff racers come up with. We deal with it and go have fun. Want a lower class, drop the hp and/or add weight, simple eh? But we all want to go faster, not slower. That's the kicker.

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Well I finally got the info and I'm TTB** with 2440lb/239whp. So with 15-points I'm looking at TTA, which matches the lettering I bought yesterday. I suppose I have room for Hoosiers and aero now.

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or turn the wick down, polish the car with free mods, polish your driving through the season, and go contend for a championship in Sept at Mid-O. Jus Sayin

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or turn the wick down, polish the car with free mods, polish your driving through the season, and go contend for a championship in Sept at Mid-O. Jus Sayin

 

The wick cannot be turned down, I'm already on the spring and under prime on the turbo. Is TTA a stout field? I'd like to have a look at record lap times to make a more educated decision. I built this car to play with Vettes initially, so I'll try that out for the first couple weekends and see what happens.

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Is TTA a stout field?

It is in the SE and should be at nationals if we all don't wad our cars up in PTA.

 

Well, you won't see me at nationals considering I'm "ballin on a budget" and drive my car to and from the track. The 5-hour drive in the track car kills my body, and the bursitis in my shoulder pretty much means that you won't catch me driving the track-car 12-hours each way to the track. Now, when my lady-friend finishes her PhD and financially sweeps me off my feet and buys me that tow rig...then I'll see you guys at Nationals. However, she'll probably up-class before that happens.

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the SE guys do have a strong TT region but Texas TTA is stout in its own right as well.

 

(note that data below is only across 2 seasons)

 

TRs for TTA:

MSRH 2.38 CCW: 1:42.081

MSRC 1.70 CCW: 1:22.755

TWS 2.9 CCW: 1:56.038

Hallett CW: 1:24.785

TWS 2.9 CW: 1:55.179

Eagles Canyon: 1:59.933

 

TTB:

MSRH 2.38 CCW: 1:42.675

MSRC 1.70 CCW: 1:27.682

TWS 2.9 CCW: 2:00.654

Hallett CW: 1:27.413

TWS 2.9 CW: 1:57.136

Eagles Canyon: 1:59.695

 

It'll be less expensive (which means more $$ to stay in fresh hoosiers!) to add a few lbs and run a touch less boost than it would be to really mod up to really push the limits of A. Either way the real time gain is using the free mods and also making sure the points you do take are parts/stuff that maximizes the use of said points. Just my $0.02, ymmv

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Also running at a 10.21:1 in TTA, a class of 8.7:1 corvettes i doubt will bode well for you. Look at making a restrictor plate for the car if you don't want to detune it anymore.

 

I'd shoot for simple mods on your car.

 

Coilovers/shocks

torsen

225 ho-hos

decent brake setup (wilwood setup for the car is very reasonably priced)

 

Not sure what other mods you have and are taking points for, but i'd consider removing them to fit in a class the car will be competitive in.

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the SE guys do have a strong TT region but Texas TTA is stout in its own right as well.

 

(note that data below is only across 2 seasons)

 

TRs for TTA:

MSRH 2.38 CCW: 1:42.081

MSRC 1.70 CCW: 1:22.755

TWS 2.9 CCW: 1:56.038

Hallett CW: 1:24.785

TWS 2.9 CW: 1:55.179

Eagles Canyon: 1:59.933

 

TTB:

MSRH 2.38 CCW: 1:42.675

MSRC 1.70 CCW: 1:27.682

TWS 2.9 CCW: 2:00.654

Hallett CW: 1:27.413

TWS 2.9 CW: 1:57.136

Eagles Canyon: 1:59.695

 

It'll be less expensive (which means more $$ to stay in fresh hoosiers!) to add a few lbs and run a touch less boost than it would be to really mod up to really push the limits of A. Either way the real time gain is using the free mods and also making sure the points you do take are parts/stuff that maximizes the use of said points. Just my $0.02, ymmv

In order to get into TTB, I'd have to get the designation with no "**". I don't have that info in my email, I suspect there is a reason for that. I was told I can go up to 2340/262 and get TTA*, but that * pushes me into TTS because again, my mod list will not change. I'm going to regret saying this, but I should be able to run with TTA if I add hoosiers wing, and splitter. Would you believe me if I told you I've already maxed-out the free mod list? My car is a mutant.

 

Also running at a 10.21:1 in TTA, a class of 8.7:1 corvettes i doubt will bode well for you. Look at making a restrictor plate for the car if you don't want to detune it anymore.

 

I'd shoot for simple mods on your car.

 

Coilovers/shocks

torsen

225 ho-hos

decent brake setup (wilwood setup for the car is very reasonably priced)

 

Not sure what other mods you have and are taking points for, but i'd consider removing them to fit in a class the car will be competitive in.

TTA is going to crush me; I already have all the mod's you've listed.

My numbers:

+7 - NT-01

+3 - upgraded number of forward gears

+3 - differential

+2 - swaybar

+3 - modified shocks

+2 - coil springs

+2 - ball joints

+2 - calipers

+3 - front bumper "aero"

-10 - -40mm tire

+17 points assessed

There's not really much I can change to grab a few points, I have too much work in the bumper to change that, 5-speeds blow up fast, +2 on ball joints won't "get me there".

 

I've emailed Greg asking which power level to run TTB with no "*".

 

Although I just spent $60 on vinyl, I'm kind of leaning toward running DE4. I drive this car to work on occasion or when the weather is nice, so I don't really care to put 10" numbers on the doors and deal with all that comes with it. I suppose I have 24-hours to figure that out.

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