jacob Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 Me: HPDE group 3, been running off and on since 2002 starting with Group 1 and volunteering with Safety/Tow My car: Currently a bone stock 2010 Camaro SS, M6 Over the years I have found one of my biggest areas of learning has been about tire pressures, but it's been very vehicle specific. My last track day was at Thunderhill in my previous car, 2002 Toyota MR-2 Spyder. I over-inflated the rears the first time out and it took about 5 laps to get it right, at the cost of quite a bit of rear tire tread. Since the tires I am dealing with are a bit more expensive this time - I was hoping to get some pointers as to where to start with this car. Factory pressure is quoted as 36lb all around, cold so my thought was to start out a little lower, do 5 easy laps, check again - lather/rinse/repeat. The main reason I am asking is this is my first time on-track in this car, and this will be at Infineon - and it's been several years since I have run Infineon. Most of my experience has been in light RWD cars, mostly my old 1980 Celica coupe and my MR-2 Spyder. This 4000lb RWD beastie is going to be a whole new experience for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 Very generally speaking higher pressure = longer life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosm3os Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 What kind of tire? Is "factory" pressure on the street or track? Cold or hot? Lots of variables. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReaperX Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 In my vehicles I start out with 2psi more than recommended and use a piece of tire marking chaulk (can get it at most auto parts stores) and mark the sidewalls where the tread indicator triangles are. Do that each session to help dial in your cold pressures. The goal is to scrub the chaulk to just the tip of the indicator triangle. If it doesn't reach the triangle, use less pressure. If it scrubs off the triangle, add more. I do my adjustments in 1psi increments. (I've only used street and NT01's, if your running slicks it may be a different procedure as far as starting pressure) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camaricopa Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Welcome my fellow Camaro Owner I am assuming when you say stock you have the Perelli P-Zero's, it's pretty easy to tell with them once they get hot where your contact point is and if your getting any tire roll. I found 35psi cold was good for this last weekend (but it was cool day). More importantly (if I may) I would like to give you a heads up on your weakest link on your car--Brake Fluid!!! Highly recomend at the minimum you upgrade to the highest boiling point brake fluid you can find that is compatible with the stock brake system. Having the pedal go to the floor doing 145mph just before your turn is not a good feeling. If you would like any other info on what to expect from your 426HP "SnowPlow", I would be happy to share. Just shoot me a PM. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevelaclair Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 In my vehicles I start out with 2psi more than recommended and use a piece of tire marking chaulk (can get it at most auto parts stores) and mark the sidewalls where the tread indicator triangles are. Do that each session to help dial in your cold pressures. The goal is to scrub the chaulk to just the tip of the indicator triangle. If it doesn't reach the triangle, use less pressure. If it scrubs off the triangle, add more. I do my adjustments in 1psi increments. (I've only used street and NT01's, if your running slicks it may be a different procedure as far as starting pressure) ^ this, i use a little dab of whiteout Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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