Jump to content

R Compound


bossman429

Recommended Posts

Im going into my 3rd year with NASA, and am now in the 4th run group.

 

All the while I've used Falken Azenis 615's. Mainly due to the value factor. Although they are great tires for the money, I've come to the point where I feel they are the limiting factor in how fast I can drive. Sure I could mod the suspension more, but I have the car running well, and don't want to drop a couple grand on a new suspension setup anytime soon. I plan on spending my budget on brake pads, tires, and seat time for the forseeable future.

 

That being said, I am looking to invest in a stickier set of shoes for my car. I am thinking DOT legal R compound Such as a NITTO NT01, NT555RII, or something along those lines.

 

I've a bit reluctant to get full slicks mainly b/c I dont know if I'll be able to get a new set of wheels and tires for the wet this year. So I'd like to have something with some treads on it at least for the first set.

 

I'm sure this topic has been beat to death, but the search function on this forum is horrible.

 

What do you all suggest and why? Obviously value is important but I also want a better performing tire. Car is a 00 Mustang, about 3300# with me in it, about 300hp at the wheels. Carbotech XP-10 pads in the front w/ 4 piston brembos, and Hawk HPS in the rear with stock cobra hardware.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im going into my 3rd year with NASA, and am now in the 4th run group.

 

All the while I've used Falken Azenis 615's. Mainly due to the value factor. Although they are great tires for the money, I've come to the point where I feel they are the limiting factor in how fast I can drive. Sure I could mod the suspension more, but I have the car running well, and don't want to drop a couple grand on a new suspension setup anytime soon. I plan on spending my budget on brake pads, tires, and seat time for the forseeable future.

 

That being said, I am looking to invest in a stickier set of shoes for my car. I am thinking DOT legal R compound Such as a NITTO NT01, NT555RII, or something along those lines.

 

I've a bit reluctant to get full slicks mainly b/c I dont know if I'll be able to get a new set of wheels and tires for the wet this year. So I'd like to have something with some treads on it at least for the first set.

 

I'm sure this topic has been beat to death, but the search function on this forum is horrible.

 

What do you all suggest and why? Obviously value is important but I also want a better performing tire. Car is a 00 Mustang, about 3300# with me in it, about 300hp at the wheels. Carbotech XP-10 pads in the front w/ 4 piston brembos, and Hawk HPS in the rear with stock cobra hardware.

 

 

Toyo RA-1

Toyo R888

Nitto NT-01

 

shaved or full tread

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im going into my 3rd year with NASA, and am now in the 4th run group.

 

All the while I've used Falken Azenis 615's. Mainly due to the value factor. Although they are great tires for the money, I've come to the point where I feel they are the limiting factor in how fast I can drive. Sure I could mod the suspension more, but I have the car running well, and don't want to drop a couple grand on a new suspension setup anytime soon. I plan on spending my budget on brake pads, tires, and seat time for the forseeable future.

 

That being said, I am looking to invest in a stickier set of shoes for my car. I am thinking DOT legal R compound Such as a NITTO NT01, NT555RII, or something along those lines.

 

I've a bit reluctant to get full slicks mainly b/c I dont know if I'll be able to get a new set of wheels and tires for the wet this year. So I'd like to have something with some treads on it at least for the first set.

 

I'm sure this topic has been beat to death, but the search function on this forum is horrible.

 

What do you all suggest and why? Obviously value is important but I also want a better performing tire. Car is a 00 Mustang, about 3300# with me in it, about 300hp at the wheels. Carbotech XP-10 pads in the front w/ 4 piston brembos, and Hawk HPS in the rear with stock cobra hardware.

 

With the advances in tire technology in today's world, any street tire with at tread wear rating around the 200 range isn't going to be much different than a DOT legal R compound. Your biggest jump will be between going from what you have now to a Hoosier A6 or R6 type of tire. I've researched this until my brain bled. I run Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Specs and I simply love them. I also wanted to make the jump to an R compound, but after learning this, I'm just going to stay with the tires I have until I can justify getting a different set of wheels to use with the Hoosiers.

 

Oh yea...the Star Specs are great in the rain, too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have Nitto NT555 RIIs on my 2001 Z06. 275/40-17 front and 305/35-18 rear. I find them to be an excellent tire.

 

I've these tires once before, but used them on the street prior to my track days... I loved them on the street, but obviously there is no way to compare that to what they would be like on the track.

 

How did these hold up to higher temps and multiple heat cycles? I'm actually considering these more than the NT01's mainly b/c they are cheaper, same compound I beleive, and have a more wet weather friendly tread design incase I get bad weather for an event. Also, about how many days/sessions do you get to a set? The only downside I'd see is you can't rotate sides as they are directial.

 

I should invest in a wet set of wheels/tires but I'm just not there yet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

NT555 RIIs is an awesome arrive and drive tire. They handle heat cycles very well and are quick down to the cords.

I found them to be very consistent until the very end. You'll know when they've given up their grip. It's a night and day change.

I ran a whole season on a set without being able to rotate them front to rear and had thousands of street miles on them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

NT555 RIIs is an awesome arrive and drive tire. They handle heat cycles very well and are quick down to the cords.

I found them to be very consistent until the very end. You'll know when they've given up their grip. It's a night and day change.

I ran a whole season on a set without being able to rotate them front to rear and had thousands of street miles on them.

 

Thats good to know.. I trailer the car now so streetability is 0 concern to me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was in the same spot as you last year. I had always run starspecs all through the hpde program. When I switched to TT last year, I went with the Nitto NT01 rather than a narrower Hoosier. This was primarily from a cost/longevity standpoint. I also found it A LOT easier to get used to the NT01's than it was Hoosier A6's (got to try some used A6's for a few sessions).

 

So yes, I also recommend the NT01's. Good grip for its class, easy to drive, and after you factor in longevity, about 1/4 the price of Hoosiers or something similar.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you can rotate directional tires side-to-side by dismounting them and remounting them (ie "flipping" them on the wheel).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys..

 

I'd flip them, if I could find someone who charged less than $25 a wheel....

 

The only thing that i'm not sold on is the wet traction of the NT01's. since I only have one set I may go with the 555RIIs.... same compound as the NT01, more tread incase its a wet day.

 

Anyone ever use a NT01 in the wet?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys..

 

I'd flip them, if I could find someone who charged less than $25 a wheel....

 

The only thing that i'm not sold on is the wet traction of the NT01's. since I only have one set I may go with the 555RIIs.... same compound as the NT01, more tread incase its a wet day.

 

Anyone ever use a NT01 in the wet?

 

I've used the NT01 in the wet and they are fine when new, but they are designed to have 1/2 the usable rubber with no tread so once you get halfway through the tire life you'll have to get rid of them. (I think its something like 3/32 tread and 6/32 usable rubber). The good thing is it takes about 5 or 6 weekends to wear down to the end of the tread so you still would get a lot of use out of them. They would be a Great tire for what you need if it weren't for the wet weather requirement, with it they would just be a good choice. You would probably be better off with something that has more tread depth for wet and dry use.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The only problem with NT-01's is if you get outside shoulder wear (common on street cars), you can't flip the inside to the outside like you can a toyo.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The only problem with NT-01's is if you get outside shoulder wear (common on street cars), you can't flip the inside to the outside like you can a toyo.

 

 

Why not?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The only problem with NT-01's is if you get outside shoulder wear (common on street cars), you can't flip the inside to the outside like you can a toyo.

 

 

Why not?

Nt-01's are built to be directional (see pic)

nithz8.ang.jpg

 

The left side in the pic above is meant to be on the outside the way the tread blocks were designed. I was told that if you run it counter directional to the way it was built (inside on the outside), it will cause a degradation of handling. Sure it will work, but performance will suffer. Performance is the entire reason to run R comps, so why do it? If you want to flip it, buy Toyos. Almost the same tire, and nearly the same price.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The left side in the pic above is meant to be on the outside the way the tread blocks were designed. I was told that if you run it counter directional to the way it was built (inside on the outside), it will cause a degradation of handling. Sure it will work, but performance will suffer. Performance is the entire reason to run R comps, so why do it? If you want to flip it, buy Toyos. Almost the same tire, and nearly the same price.

 

While that is true that the tread is assymetric, by the time you will be ready to flip them you will be past the tread part of the tire and into the slick portion. The two grooves won't effect handling much at all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

The left side in the pic above is meant to be on the outside the way the tread blocks were designed. I was told that if you run it counter directional to the way it was built (inside on the outside), it will cause a degradation of handling. Sure it will work, but performance will suffer. Performance is the entire reason to run R comps, so why do it? If you want to flip it, buy Toyos. Almost the same tire, and nearly the same price.

 

Where are you finding them for nearly the same price? Ive seen the NT-01s for around $500 shipped in 205-50-15, but the RA-1 is usually $10-$15 more per tire.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The left side in the pic above is meant to be on the outside the way the tread blocks were designed. I was told that if you run it counter directional to the way it was built (inside on the outside), it will cause a degradation of handling. Sure it will work, but performance will suffer. Performance is the entire reason to run R comps, so why do it? If you want to flip it, buy Toyos. Almost the same tire, and nearly the same price.

 

While that is true that the tread is assymetric, by the time you will be ready to flip them you will be past the tread part of the tire and into the slick portion. The two grooves won't effect handling much at all.

+1 On the NT01, the tread pattern is asymmetrical, but not directional. Like Bill said, the tire is basically a slick when down to 3/32nds and it doesn't matter which side or direction you use the tire. The underlying carcass is the same on inside and outside.

Edited by Guest
Link to comment
Share on other sites

While that is true that the tread is assymetric, by the time you will be ready to flip them you will be past the tread part of the tire and into the slick portion. The two grooves won't effect handling much at all.

True enough if your outside wear from roll over isn't that bad. For most street cars with little camber, roll over is an issue. If you camber things up a bit, the roll over wear will be less of a problem. Yes, if the wear is fairly even till the tread blocks are gone, you can flip it on the rim. I found however, on a street car, with typical street suspension, rollover wear is excessive and you may have to flip the tire long before the tread blocks are gone. This is the HPDE forum after all....

 

Yes, Toyos are a bit more (I did say nearly didn't I), but deals in 205/50-15 can be found as that's the spec miata tire size, and likely the most popular size in RA1's.

 

Just trying to add value to the thread, not trying to start a tire war.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, Toyos are a bit more (I did say nearly didn't I), but deals in 205/50-15 can be found as that's the spec miata tire size, and likely the most popular size in RA1's.

 

Just trying to add value to the thread, not trying to start a tire war.

Oh no, I didnt think you were, I was genuinely asking. The cheapest I had found them was $10 more a tire, and then the charge to shave on top of that. I didnt know if there was a vendor I was missing somewhere that had a better deal on the RA1s.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...