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Beginning to upgrade - question


MikeAtl

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I have a 2004 Infiniti G35 sedan (6mt) that I have decided to begin to upgrade for HPDE. I was going to buy an older Miata, but for what I will spend on a Miata and upgrades, I figure I'd rather put the money into a car I already own. I have had the G since new in 2004 and it has only 42K. I plan to keep it as a Weekend/HPDE car, so no cage, at least for now. I plan to do the following, but I am not sure of the best order and best bang for the buck. Please also let me know if I am making a big mistake with the plan and I may revisit the Miata.

 

Wheels/tires: Was thinking about a track-oriented tire like NT01's, or similar, mounted on a set of wheels that I would transport to events. Not sure if there is a better choice, and not sure if I should stick with the factory 17" or go to 18". Not sure what brand wheels to look for.

 

BBK: The G35 brakes in 2004 are a weak spot. Currently using HP+ pads for HPDE, but the stock front rotors are tiny (11"). I am thinking about going with a racingbrake.com larger rotor and caliper kit for the front and maybe just a larger rotor and stock caliper adapter bracket for the rear. SS lines all around. They say their kit maintains factory brake bias and it will fit inside the stock 17" wheels, so DD use is OK.

 

Suspension: Not sure here, but thought that wheels/tires and brakes should come first. Will appreciate suggestions.

 

Seats: Need to improve the terrible drivers seat to something that is OK for DD and supportive for track days. Corbeau looks to make relatively affordable supportive seats for the car, but no idea if they are any good.

 

Any help is appreciated.

 

Mike

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on tires, where are u going to put 4 mounted wheel/tires on a g35? i don't think it'd fit in the trunk. don't think u wanna carry dirty wheels in the back seat of your nice car. unless u have a utility tire trailer.

 

on brakes (and also on tires too). when you do a smooth but HARD brake on a warm smooth surface, do you trigger ABS? if answer is yes, you don't need bigger brake package (at least not for DE's). BBK vendors will always tell u bigger is better (what else are they in the market for?). but if you can trigger ABS, the brakes work good enough to lock up your tires so brakes are not the limiting factor. of course since the car's heavy, it probably would be a good idea to carry an extra set of pads to DE.

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HP+ aren't very agressive - I'd look at more pad before I did the expense of a brake kit. YMMV

 

Lawn & Garden size trashbags make excellent tire totes to contain the mess. Plus for a few $$ per roll, very cost effective as well

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If it were me, I would upgrade the brake pads and fluid and drive the car as is the first time. By the end of the weekend, you'll know what you need to do.

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Thanks all, should have mentioned that I have done two DEs at Road Atlanta with stock setup except for ATE 200 brake fluid, HP+ pads and new rotors.

 

I am now completely hooked and plan on at least four events per year. The G is paid for, handles well, has a 6mt, has relatively low miles, and I cannot justify a dedicated track car, yet...

 

Mounted wheels/tires will fit in the back seat in those great hefty bags. Reason for the wheels/tires is to save the expensive summer tires and have something to ride home on if something happens.

 

Even at my noob speeds on the back straight at RA, on the brakes into 10a was not confidence inspiring with the stock rotors and HP+ pads. I could add more pad, but I think the rotors would warp after one or two sessions.

 

I really appreciate all the responses, keep em coming.

 

thanks,

Mike

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Why do you think you would warp a rotor? Most newer cars with stock power levels have no need for larger calipers and rotors. Race pads with new rotors are a good place to start.

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The stock brakes on the 2003-2004 G35 (non-Brembo) are a known weak spot. Good stopping ability, but tiny front rotors prone to fade (probably fixed with the HP+ pads and higher temp fluid because I experienced no fade or fluid boiling) and warping.

 

Great idea on the ducting.

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Send me a PM with your email address. I have a buddy that has tracked and Time Trialed a G35 6MT for years. Before that, he tracked a G35 Auto. He has tons of stuff (literally) done to the car and can give you a proven list of do's and don'ts on your car.

 

 

 

-Kevin

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Tires - are you getting everything out of the existing tires at every point on the track? After 4 track days certainly not. #1 rule: Improve the driver, not the car.

 

Brakes - are you fading them? "on the brakes into 10a was not confidence inspiring with the stock rotors and HP+ pads" How are the brakes not inspiring confidence, are they not slowing the car or does it just feel funny as it moves around? See rule #1.

 

Suspension - similar to the tire comments. Until you are better than the car, and the G35 is certainly not horrible to begin with, do as many track days as you can and change the car only when you need to.

 

When I first started the people that I respected and thought knew what they were talking about were consistent on that point. Don't start changing the car right away, put your time and effort and money into improving the driver.

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Thanks for the advice, and I agree. Everyone is consistent with "more seat time" as the first step, and that is what I plan to do.

 

I did not mean that I was going to do the mods all at once, but was more of laying out a plan that I would implement as I improve as a driver.

 

Thanks for all the feedback.

 

Mike

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  • 2 weeks later...
Buy the miata. In the end, you'll be happier.

 

This. I wish I would have listened to this advice from the start.

 

 

It's a lot "more funner" to drive a slow car fast than to drive a fast car slow. +1 on more seat time.

 

If you want to change stuff, here's my .02....

 

Tires - go with something around a 200 treadwear (love my Star Specs) Star Specs/RS-3's/615K's (this will help with braking)

 

Brakes - I drive a 3200lb Subaru and have Carbotech XP-10s up front/XP-8's in the back. Almost too much pad for my street tires, just enough for my Star Specs. Call the guys at Carbotech. Ask for Mike, Jr. Tell him the guy in the Silver Subaru sent you. He will give you great advice on what pad to run.

 

Brake fluid - Run something like ATE Blue, TYP 200, or something with a very high boiling point.

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I'll give you alittle more information re: my miata recommendation.

 

I started with a 98 BMW M3, so similar to your car. Over the course of years, spent umteen thousands of dollars to modify it into a TT car and then a W2W car. After spending said thousands on "building" the car, I was then faced with "running" the car. That was the nail in the coffin for me.

 

Don't get me wrong--I loved my bimmer and would die for another right now. The miata is painfully slow, but it's making me a better driver so its rewarding there. Its fun, especially when running with other miatas or makeing guys in vipers look bad. The cost to run is ridiculously low, especially compared to your car.

 

So, if you have unlimited funds to modify and keep the car running, stick with the G. If you want minimal investment and max $/fun, go with the miata--and for crying out loud, buy one someone else built already.

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and for crying out loud, buy one someone else built already.

Its like I typed my response to this already. Oh wait...

 

This. I wish I would have listened to this advice from the start.

 

I did.

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Yeah, the more I think about it, the more I agree with the Miata option, previously built of course. I'll keep DEing the G for now, but would prefer to keep it as a street car and really don't want to spend $$$ on it.

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944s and E30s seem to be a more attractive car to me - easy path from DE to TT to actual low cost Spec racing. Pick whichever has bigger car counts in your region and go for it

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