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225/45 R6 vs 205/50 A6


Vinny

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Thinking about bumping up in class next year guys with experience with running smaller tires in class (IE the spec c5z guys) and anyone else with R's vs A's...

 

What's your opinion on running a bigger r6 vs a smaller a6? I only have experience on R's 205's at that.

 

Right now with the 205 R6's at 140whp i dont have wheel spin issues, my traction issues are simply corning speed, and really after 2-3 hard laps the 205's fall off pretty drastically.

 

If i bump up to TTD id bump up another 15whp or so, and maybe able to shed some weight in the car.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Vinny

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Compound is more important than size.

 

In this case there is a 1" differance between tires the 205 is 8" wide and the 225 is 9" wide - compound may not mean as much when you are talking about 10" wide tires (295's vs 275/255's is only .5") - but I have a feeling that there will be a differance here.

Sounds like testing is the only way to find out.

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Sounds like testing is the only way to find out.

this is the real answer also matters what wheels you're mounting these on.

 

Good point about 20mm being "alot of tire" when you're talking about stuff in the low 200s vs high 200s as well.

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For us TTA C5Z06s, the 275A is much faster than the 295R. We can boil the 275A on an aggressive track out, but that is managed with throttle. Heck, we can boil a 295R out of a turn just as easily.

 

I still say a 205A will be faster than the 225R even if the 225R is an 1" wider than the 205A. The 205A is lighter and stickier, so it should be faster.

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For us TTA C5Z06s, the 275A is much faster than the 295R. We can boil the 275A on an aggressive track out, but that is managed with throttle. Heck, we can boil a 295R out of a turn just as easily.

 

I still say a 205A will be faster than the 225R even if the 225R is an 1" wider than the 205A. The 205A is lighter and stickier, so it should be faster.

 

 

Only for a short amount of time.....for TT it's good.

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These would be on 15x7s....i was thinking the A6's would probably be the choice for TT. I also dont have an issue doing flyer laps and knocking out the fast ones early.

 

Thanks for the replies so far guys, I'll try em hoosier contengency is great

 

Also whats the heat cycle life on the A6's?

 

I found the R6's on my car to be about 10-12 depending on how well i drove that day.

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also matters what wheels you're mounting these on.

 

absolutely, and don't look at the sidewall, measure them. and don't even go by the manu specs, they ain't even right half the time

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Also whats the heat cycle life on the A6's?

 

 

Depends on the setup of the car and the style of driving.

 

On my C5Z06, I get about 25 heat cycles or more out of R6s and only about 14 out of A6s. Usable life depends on your definition. A6s will make you feel like a cat on a carpet and steadily go down from there. R6s will be more stable for longer and eventually start giving up the ghost. BTW, I run my tires until I see steel. For me, the last heat cycle or two before the cords show are FUN!

 

Also, if your suspension is not optimized, you will get a shorter life and a more dramatic drop-off from sticker to so-so feeling.

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Also whats the heat cycle life on the A6's?

 

We were talking about A's/R's in the instructor room Sun am at VIR. So tonight I went back and added up my HC's based on mylaps. The tires I ran at VIR till noon sunday I had ran as stickers at Road Atlanta in Dec '10, (and I also gave 3 taxi cab rides that weekend).

 

28 HC's between then and now, including 2 races in March in Thunder.

 

I did a 2:05.5 sun am at VIR and a 2:03.9 on stickers right after (there was more time left in the stickers) but I don't think you're looking at more than about 3 secs from stickers to old scrubs. And I'd bet a sticker R would have had a hard time running with those scrub A's.

 

I'm telling you, Hoosier should just do away with the R's. The A's are faster, last, and haul the mail even when they are on cords.

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they make Rs for cars that are actually hard on tires. Corvettes, Miatae, RX8s, and many others are pretty dang gentle on them.... other cars not so much.

 

- KB, who has shredded many a Hoosier R and knows how much worse his tire bill would be on As

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Interesting info, i tend to side to the side of driver as the biggest issue with any laptime. Even at 10-12 heat cylces the only thing i notice with the R's is they take a little longer to warm up and they seem to go away faster during a session, not uncontrollable, but noticeable. I've run them as long as 24-25 cycles and didnt notice them fall off much more then at 10-12. Then again until you put another sticker set on you don't realize how much better they are haha.

 

Even at that drop off between a half second to a second, i may just try A's to do it. Have to do some reclass math, I've noticed by laptimes of the big dogs that run on a's that there first 2 laps compared to there third is a few seconds slower.

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I've noticed by laptimes of the big dogs that run on a's that there first 2 laps compared to there third is a few seconds slower.

Alot of guys throw down two laps, catch traffic, back off and look for a gap then either go again if they find one or pit if there's a train.

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Also whats the heat cycle life on the A6's?

28 HC's between then and now, including 2 races in March in Thunder.

I'm telling you, Hoosier should just do away with the R's. The A's are faster, last, and haul the mail even when they are on cords.

 

Damn, if you are getting 28 HC's on A's I guess those will be my next tire and I'll use the Rs up until I see cords

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I've noticed by laptimes of the big dogs that run on a's that there first 2 laps compared to there third is a few seconds slower.

Alot of guys throw down two laps, catch traffic, back off and look for a gap then either go again if they find one or pit if there's a train.

 

ah makes sense, i guess one of the benefits of being a mid pack TT car...open air damn near the entire session if you so choose.

 

 

Well just did the math with the reclass i already had to run TTD...and i have the points to run the small 205 A's.... I'd have to reclass for a base of TTD no stars to run the 225 r's..but then i could either still run a's or 225 a's....and put a sway bar back on the car....so many decisions, but i think the more power i can keep in the Miata the better.

 

Whats the general rule of thumb on how much faster the a6's over the same size r6?

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Ive been told by numerous people that a corded A is still faster than a fresh R. Ive never run them to that point myself, so I cant tell you how much truth that holds.

 

Why the change to TTD Vinny?

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Ive been told by numerous people that a corded A is still faster than a fresh R.

That's b.s.

 

- KB, also wondering why the switch from the populated class nationally, and locally too right?

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Ive been told by numerous people that a corded A is still faster than a fresh R.

That's b.s.

 

- KB, also wondering why the switch from the populated class nationally, and locally too right?

Yeah, heavily populated.

 

As far as tires go, maybe Ill find out one day when I can bump up to E.

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Car numbers in TTD our last few events have been in the 5 range, and ive always been more interested in my own laptimes then everyone elses. I'm interested to see just how fast i can get the car around the track without changing much. Also as long as i can have the possibility of winning a tire a day is ok by me.

 

It's still not set in stone ill switch, but a change like this will still keep me interested in running TT. Taking donations for w2w racing fund.

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I did a 32.6 at Road Altanta on these last June. I'm not sure an R6 on a TTA car would ever turn a 32.xxx lap

 

granted a lot of this is from aggressive TT set up but these tires were really old to

 

cordedhoosier.jpg

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Taking donations for w2w racing fund.

AFter the start up costs of the cage and safety gear and comp school, it's not that bad. I'm finding my consumables costs are no more, and maybe even less, than TT. Seems the fewer, longer sessions are easier on the parts than the multiple, hair-on-fire, short TT runs.

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Taking donations for w2w racing fund.

AFter the start up costs of the cage and safety gear and comp school, it's not that bad. I'm finding my consumables costs are no more, and maybe even less, than TT. Seems the fewer, longer sessions are easier on the parts than the multiple, hair-on-fire, short TT runs.

 

Well i instruct and run TT, as for wear and tear the chance of car contact and broken things is what keeps me away, it's inevitable in w2w. With that all said i'd still really like to do it, but have to keep the priorities in line

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Ive been told by numerous people that a corded A is still faster than a fresh R. Ive never run them to that point myself, so I cant tell you how much truth that holds.

I set some track records this year on 20 HC & corded A6's.

 

Then again, I set some track records in 2010 with 20+ HC R6's. Different class setup; so not apples-to-apples unfortunately.

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Taking donations for w2w racing fund.

AFter the start up costs of the cage and safety gear and comp school, it's not that bad. I'm finding my consumables costs are no more, and maybe even less, than TT. Seems the fewer, longer sessions are easier on the parts than the multiple, hair-on-fire, short TT runs.

 

Well i instruct and run TT, as for wear and tear the chance of car contact and broken things is what keeps me away, it's inevitable in w2w. With that all said i'd still really like to do it, but have to keep the priorities in line

 

I raced and TT'd a full season and I only got hit in TT. Just lucky I guess.

 

TT has lower overall costs for me then W2W. Other results may vary.

 

If you can do a 1:32.6 on a corded A6 you can do a 1:32.6 on a sticker R6...especially if it is hot, really hot...

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