Jump to content

Splitter Mounting Relative to OEM Lip


kjbrew01

Recommended Posts

I am working on mounting a plywood splitter for my car and need some clarification on the rules regarding mounting it. I know that on the outside you cannot use a piece of sheet metal to cover the gap between the splitter and the lip.

http://media.photobucket.com/image/american%20iron%20splitter/loudnslow98gt/110_2020.jpg

 

You can see the sheet metal there. It would just cover the oem lip. I am pretty sure that under G.1 that would be a fascia modification.

 

I am concerned that I may not be able to get the lip to seal against the spoiler without some kind of mechanical connection between the two. Does anyone have any ideas on how to seal that joint and prevent air getting through, without taking the +3 for fascia modifications?

 

One idea was to rely on the 4 strut mounts from the bumper to the splitter to hold the splitter up against the lip

 

another was to add silicone between the two to better glue them

 

The best would be to screw every 4 inches of the lip through to the wood splitter. I just dont know if thats legal.

 

 

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Any vertical component of the splitter (besides its own realistic thickness), regardless of material, will take points for fascia modifications.

 

Altering or deforming the shape of the OEM fascia so that it seals to the splitter (or performs another function...I can see people eventually getting out of hand with this one) would likely take points for fascia modifications, per my interpretation.

 

FWIW, I have seen a splitter mounted with a very slight gap between the top of the splitter and the bottom of the OEM fascia.

 

Some photos of your particular car with a mocked-up splitter might help.

 

Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's interesting. I mean if that's the case then I may just add a wing and not run a splitter for this year until I am sure I need one. 7 points is a quite a bit. I don't want to mount the splitter with a gap as I already have issues with the factory lip separating from the bumper (had to reinforce with sandwich plates). I really need to firm up my car plans soon so I can actually do something instead of planning. I was going to go from 275s to 245s and add a wing and splitter, but if I only add a wing I may be able to give up some weight and get the 275s back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What kind of car is this for? Is it fast enough to benefit from +7 points of aero modifications instead of +7 points of power or mechanical grip modifications?

 

Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the car is a 1989 toyota supra. The engine is already turbo limited so there is no reasonable way without a dyno reclass to add more power. I have decided I am going to try to get closer to my minimum weight (60 lbs heavy) using lexan, and redo the shock package to allow me to lower the car more (no points change). Should help with acceleration and grip. I will try the set of 275s I already have and compare them to the 245s to see how much worse the grip is. Pending on those results I will determine whether the smaller tire with a rear wing would be a better package. Right now my guess is that a minimum I need the rear wing as the rear end slides out pretty bad at turn 1 at mid o.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...