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2013 Rules Consideration--Bump of +13 Point Tire Category


Greg G.

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Nope you are right it is 44. I was playing around with the weight when I was going through my form and rule book and typing all at the same time.

 

Plus LSD is 47.

 

We didn't change the 5th gear ratio at all, it already came in with the short 5th with it being a late - 80's; so no points there.

 

If you can get reclassed PTE at roughly that weight (or a little higher):

PTE base class

+2 Straight pipe

+1 Cat removed

+2 springs

+2 sway bars

+3 LSD - Standard 5th gear.

+6 205 R1 (+13 for R1 and -7 for size)

=

+16 Assessment is what I can come up with in calculations.

 

Thank you all for the help and input..

If you did a power-to-weight reclass through Greg G, you would not have to take points for power adders - aka straight pipe and cat delete. You would, however, HAVE to be below your assigned whp and above your assigned weight.

 

So you're only at +13 if you get reclassed PTE. Any other mods you can do to fill up those empty 6 points? What about running 225s for PTE and 205s for E3?

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I've always wondered why the tire points were based off of a "street-tire-zero" that nearly nobody runs in competition certainly not if they want to be atop the leader board.

 

How about this:

 

Drop the sticky streets back to 0pts.

Drop the 7pt tires to 5pts.

Drop the 10pt tires to 8pts.

Leave the 13pt tires at 13 pts.

OPTIONAL: Drop the slicks to 25pts?

 

But...don't give points back for running M+S tires. I see no reason to endeavor into that area...

 

Would this not have the least effect on enduro cross classing, base classing...car setups etc?

 

This way you are not pushing anyone out of a class they really want to run in, AKA "are currently running in". But perhaps they will consider switching compounds to get a few weight points back etc...

 

This makes the most sense to me!

 

+1

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I realized I'm an idiot - when you do the reclass thing you drop the power AND weight reduction points (the latter since your weight is reset to a new listing) So in all of my "math" I also didn't account for the number of weight points you were taking and would then "save" by changing base classes.

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I realized I'm an idiot.

Took you longer than the rest of us

my car isn't the only thing that's slow apparently

 

I'll blame my brain being fried on updating the TT/PT/ST Excel Calculators

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  • 3 weeks later...

Come on...No one else has anything to contribute to this thread? J/K

 

Looks like we play the waiting game until June/July when they release the update in regards to this. Looking forward to it.

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  • 1 month later...

@ Mike

 

Mike, a few thoughts on your situation:

 

1) We've had poor success trying narrower tires on a 944 Spec car. Last year we tried 205 SM6 (R6) tires, and had 220+ tires temps, and heavily corded tires in <3 hours in one enduro. They just don't live under those temps. The same drivers went >9hours on 245's (on 16x8's) before (though in cooler ambient temps). 225's on the Spec 15" wheel seem like the best option, and are what Neal & I are running this year (R1's).

 

2) Spec rims are cheap, and light. $200 for 14.5lb rims seems like a better deal than modifying the car to fit it into a PT class to run narrow 16's? I understand using the tires you have, but for long term planning, another set of rims seems like a better option.

 

3) Toyo has increased its contingency this year, and we'll have the fields for the deeper 9-18 car payouts this year.

 

Hope this helps? Let Neal or I know if we can help.

 

Sorry for the thread diversion!

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  • 4 weeks later...

I am a "new" guy and have been reading all the rules and posts for TT(A) and I tend to agree with the idea of making the points for R compound so high that everyone reverts to street tires.My logic is that I bought a HPDE C5Z to drive to the track, have fun, move to TTA and still drive home. The extra wheels,tires and haulers needed to compete make me avoid time trials, because I will never be competative on street tires and do not want to spend up to compete. The guys who win TTA have real race cars and are very invested in the sport.So if the idea is to make TT more attractive to us arrive and drive people then this is one solution....but if the purpose is to spend a fortune to get one really fast lap then leave things as they are.By the way, the really fast guys are always willing to help us noobies learn to be fast, but IMHO it is still a massive commitment (time and money) to be good in TT.

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I am a "new" guy and have been reading all the rules and posts for TT(A) and I tend to agree with the idea of making the points for R compound so high that everyone reverts to street tires.My logic is that I bought a HPDE C5Z to drive to the track, have fun, move to TTA and still drive home. The extra wheels,tires and haulers needed to compete make me avoid time trials, because I will never be competative on street tires and do not want to spend up to compete. The guys who win TTA have real race cars and are very invested in the sport.So if the idea is to make TT more attractive to us arrive and drive people then this is one solution....but if the purpose is to spend a fortune to get one really fast lap then leave things as they are.By the way, the really fast guys are always willing to help us noobies learn to be fast, but IMHO it is still a massive commitment (time and money) to be good in TT.

Regardless of any tire rule, guys are going to take advantage of any and all allowances in the rule book. This more than likely means that it will still take a lot of money to be competitive. The days of winning with mostly stock cars are long gone.

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popularity drives the costs to compete and win

 

those that have the means to spend their way to an advantage will do so no matter what rules are written

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popularity drives the costs to compete and win

 

those that have the means to spend their way to an advantage will do so no matter what rules are written

 

Fresh set of Pilot Sports for a C5z every weekend would get expensive also.

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Regardless of any tire rule, guys are going to take advantage of any and all allowances in the rule book. This more than likely means that it will still take a lot of money to be competitive. The days of winning with mostly stock cars are long gone.

 

Word. Pure fantasy to think otherwise. Not to mention that street tires are nowhere near as fun or demanding as Rs.

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I am a "new" guy and have been reading all the rules and posts for TT(A) and I tend to agree with the idea of making the points for R compound so high that everyone reverts to street tires.My logic is that I bought a HPDE C5Z to drive to the track, have fun, move to TTA and still drive home. The extra wheels,tires and haulers needed to compete make me avoid time trials, because I will never be competative on street tires and do not want to spend up to compete. The guys who win TTA have real race cars and are very invested in the sport.So if the idea is to make TT more attractive to us arrive and drive people then this is one solution....but if the purpose is to spend a fortune to get one really fast lap then leave things as they are.By the way, the really fast guys are always willing to help us noobies learn to be fast, but IMHO it is still a massive commitment (time and money) to be good in TT.

 

What region? It may be that a low treadwear street tire can keep you within a few seconds of the fast guys. Then again you may be buying a set every weekend or so.

I run R6's and we'll see when I finish rebuilding the engine and put in the new seat how close I can get to the C5's

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popularity drives the costs to compete and win

 

those that have the means to spend their way to an advantage will do so no matter what rules are written

 

Fresh set of Pilot Sports for a C5z every weekend would get expensive also.

 

a "built to the rules" car is still going to smoke a "street car" on the same tire, regardless of what that tire is

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A few years ago, TT cars weren't nearly as purpose built as they are now. Probably the more purpose built cars at that time were racers switching over to run some TT for a day. When a series is new, it takes a few years but people find ways to go faster with the rules given. You can look back at some of the mylaps results from about 4 years ago in TTA for example... a 1:39 lap at Road Atlanta put you in the running for the win, now that doesn't even get you a podium finish.

 

This progression has been made even with the rules slightly changing over those years that took away some of the things that you could run like you could in the beginning. Once a few guys figure it out, it drives everyone else to step up to their level if you want to win... which is what drives us all right?

 

SCCA had a plan put into place to create a street tire (ST) autox class which in the beginning started out as mostly bone stock cars running sort of sticky street tires. So what happened? Now guys show up with 140 treadwear (the minimum) tires that are shaved as much as possible to gain every tenth of a second out there. Not all that cost effective either.

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You want cost effective? Take up golf. You want to win? Do what it takes to win, don't try to handicap the winners by changing the rules every year.

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You want cost effective? Take up golf.

Even then, if you're someone who blames the equipment and keeps buying newer/better clubs or smashes clubs against trees, that will start to add up!

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You want cost effective? Take up golf. You want to win? Do what it takes to win, don't try to handicap the winners by changing the rules every year.

 

Exactly.

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You can look back at some of the mylaps results from about 4 years ago in TTA for example... a 1:39 lap at Road Atlanta put you in the running for the win, now that doesn't even get you a podium finish.

 

The scary thing is if we had the 2009 rules (A6 10 pt) I am very confident I could be running a 29s or even better

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Does anyone know any other sports car with no factory front camber adjustment or is my car just poorly designed?

 

E36 M3, E46 M3, most other BMWs

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Does anyone know any other sports car with no factory front camber adjustment or is my car just poorly designed?

 

E36 M3, E46 M3, most other BMWs

 

Thanks! I am surprised by that to be honest. Why would they do something like that on a "sports" car? More economical?

 

How do the BMW guys get adjustable camber up front then? I have to use offset bushings (free mod), but they are not enough depending on ride height, so I have to use a 4 point a-arm to gain enough camber.

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