memphisracing.com Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 Boiled the DOT3 at last weekend's NASA Mid South HPDE at Memphis International Raceway. Had brakes the entire session, they did the red flag drill so we sat still on track for awhile, black flag to come in, by the time I got to the pits, no brakes (pedal to the floor). Let it cool for an hour, went out, all was well. So it is time for refreshing the brakes on the 2010 Z06. Going to try some series 600 DOT4 racing brake fluid from AMSoil and I figure the stock brake pads have enough wear on them to just replace at the same time. Stock you have padlets on the Z06, some Z06 owners say going to the monster pads instead of multiple padlets is better. Any opinions here? Also, Hawk, Carbotech, EBC, etc - any fan favorites on brake pads? OEM always served me well, but this car can get to 160mph before the turn 1 carousel and it seems better pads might be a bright idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbrew8991 Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 DOT rating doesn't mean much on track Shop by boiling points instead The two most popular track brake fluids are Motul and ATE. ATE is kind of cool because it comes in a blue and a yellow version, so if you alternate which color you use when you flush new stuff in you can tell when you've got the old stuff out when the stuff in your bleed tube changes color. I have used Motul for a long time and it's a good fluid as well. Tough to go wrong with either of those, pretty good boiling points wet & dry for not alot of money. I'd also look at a pad with more temperature capacity as well, that'll help the fluid stay happier and help keep the car where it will stop each and every time you use the pedal. Listen to what other Z06 people say the most, as brake pad selection tends to be very car & platform specific as weight, power, brake sizes, brake biasing, etc varies alot between one car and another and what may be not enough / too much for a different car might be just right for your car. Brakes are safety equipment in my opinion. If you can stop you won't crash (or at least not crash *that* way) and have to test stuff like the seat, seatbelts, airbags, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t500hps Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 I boiled the fluid in my car my first day ever (3rd session). I'm also in the heaviest vehicle out there except for the Ambulance and Tow truck (Charger weighing 4,250 dry). I changed to Wilwood EXP which has a 600+ degree boiling point. After 4 weekends I changed the fluid but it still looked/worked fine....not even a hint of pedal fade. For pads, I had virtually liquified the stockers and went to Carbotechs. Part of that was due to the need to find something that would fit my stock Brembos but they work well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beerkat Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 I use the Valvoline synthetic. I flush my brakes before each event. The wet boiling point is more important IMO than the dry boiling point. If you keep fresh fluid in your brake system it wont boil on you. It is the older brake fluid that has collected moister that is going to boil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
memphisracing.com Posted May 7, 2012 Author Share Posted May 7, 2012 Any suggestions around how to do the brake fluid yourself while still ensuring that you get all the old brake fluid out including the fluid sitting in the ABS circuitry? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormanP#77 Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 Motul 600 is the*(*&^$))I eat up all the rotors real fast and Motul 600 stands up!!Tried drilling,slotting,and cryo treated,old A.I.X. Mustang just kills-em! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beerkat Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 Any suggestions around how to do the brake fluid yourself while still ensuring that you get all the old brake fluid out including the fluid sitting in the ABS circuitry? Get yourself a power bleeder. Motive is a common one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t500hps Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 Any suggestions around how to do the brake fluid yourself while still ensuring that you get all the old brake fluid out including the fluid sitting in the ABS circuitry? Get yourself a power bleeder. Motive is a common one. I seem to remember you had to hook the car up to a computer "tool" to get the ABS system to purge the fluid for a complete fluid change. Per the recommendation of a buddy (former lead mechanic for my brand vehicle) I had a shop do the initial fluid change....then you can bleed it yourself when needed in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beerkat Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 I have used the power bleeder for several years now on both Mustang/cobra and my vette without any issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
memphisracing.com Posted May 8, 2012 Author Share Posted May 8, 2012 Any suggestions around how to do the brake fluid yourself while still ensuring that you get all the old brake fluid out including the fluid sitting in the ABS circuitry? Get yourself a power bleeder. Motive is a common one. I seem to remember you had to hook the car up to a computer "tool" to get the ABS system to purge the fluid for a complete fluid change. Per the recommendation of a buddy (former lead mechanic for my brand vehicle) I had a shop do the initial fluid change....then you can bleed it yourself when needed in the future. Everything I have read indicates that the first time you change to real fluid, you either need a Tech II tool so you can get all the ABS circuitry to open up and have a full flush or just have the dealer do it and specify on the work order that you want their Tech II tool used to ensure that occurs. Or buy one if you've got the money at around $3k. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brkntrxn Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 Another option is to flush the fluid, then go drive the car. While running about 20mph or so, run the right two tires off the pavement and stomp the brakes. This will engage ABS. Do it a couple of times. Then go home and flush your fluid again. Probably not as thorough as a technician forcing the ABS module to activate, but cheaper. BTW, on my C5Z06 that I race and TT, I use ATE fluid and Carbotech pads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PushinTheLimit Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 (edited) I was using Carbotech XP12, XP10 pads. I changed front calipers (no help), both front hubs (no help) and finally switched over to Ferodo Racing DOT4 fluid with Hawk DTC-70 pads and no more brake fade. Edited May 14, 2012 by Guest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbrew8991 Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 power bleeders are a great way to make what should be a simple clean easy job complex & messy. - KB, old school "pump the pedal, dear" brake flusher over here... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beerkat Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 power bleeders are a great way to make what should be a simple clean easy job complex & messy. - KB, old school "pump the pedal, dear" brake flusher over here... That because you probable put the fluid in the bleeder. Works much better if you just use it to pressurize the system and keep the fluid reservoir full. But each to their own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixshooter Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 The most important part is actually bleeding them at all. Waiting until you have fade at the track is not the best time to decide to bleed the brakes for the first time. That's why they suggest bleeding them before every track day and put that on the little tech checklist every time. Off the shelf DOT3/4 fluid will probably work fine if you'd bothered to change it. I hate to think somebody that has pencil whipped the checklist is bearing down on me at the end of the straightaway with no brakes when mine are working awesome and my car weighs half as much as yours. This isn't only about you. Additionally, as your pads wear thinner, there is less pad material insulating the backing plates and brake calipers from the heat and the fluid will boil more readily than it did with new pads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoopalini Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 I also use the Wilwood EXP 600, and have been very happy with it. For the price, it really can't be beat IMO. I didn't worry about the ABS module when I flushed it, and just gravity bled each corner until clean fluid started to drip out. I put an empty baby food jar on the ground, and hung a piece of vacuum line from the bleeder into the jar. Just make sure you watch the reservoir so it doesn't go dry. I haven't experienced any fluid problems in over the 6 or so weekends I've done (with my 3800lb car). I do bleed the fluid out of the calipers every 2 or so events, by having my wife work the brake pedal 3 or 4 times. The EXP 600 fluid, plus EBC blank rotors and Blue pads have been a great combination for my car. New fluid vs. old at about 86k miles on the clock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TenTenths Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 flush entire system and ONLY use ap racing super 600 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin@VMP Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 I put air through the MC and abs of my boss last time and it really wasn't hard to get out, just a few panic stops and the pedal came back, i re-bled it to be on the safe side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TowDawg Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 I run Motul 600 and EBC yellow pads on my Viper. I would think power/weight/brakes are similar to those on your Z06. I like the EBC yellows for the track because they give good bite and don't fade. There are definitely more aggressive pads out there (Carbotech, Brakeman, etc) that are more expensive, but they are also much harder on rotors. The Yellows do a good job without burning through rotors. I also agree that bleeding before each track day is needed, and I usually flush the fluid completely at least every other weekend. I have a power bleeder, but actually prefer the speed-bleeders I have on the car now. Something about pumping the pedal to bleed the brakes just make me more comfortable. It's also very important to check the wear on your pads. As mentioned earlier, the thinner your pads get, the more heat is transferred elsewhere. I replace my pads before they get to 50% to eliminate this. Hence, I have a cabinet full of half worn pads, but I've just started using them as street pads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeAtl Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 I'm no expert, but it sounds like what the OP experienced was pad fade, not boiled fluid, except for the pedal to the floor condition. If I am not mistaken, once the fluid boils air is created in the fluid and there is no way to regain a solid pedal without bleeding the system to eliminate the air. Just letting things cool should not restore the pedal if the fluid did in fact boil. Am I missing something? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILIKETODRIVE Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 I'm no expert, but it sounds like what the OP experienced was pad fade, not boiled fluid, except for the pedal to the floor condition. If I am not mistaken, once the fluid boils air is created in the fluid and there is no way to regain a solid pedal without bleeding the system to eliminate the air. Just letting things cool should not restore the pedal if the fluid did in fact boil. Am I missing something? Mike My experience when I boiled my fluid is like what you're suggesting. Pedal went straight to floor going into a corner, panic-pumped very quickly and was able to slow car just enough to toss it into and get through corner, at next corner (taking it easy at this point) pedal felt terrible but some braking was there, at next corner straight to floor and panic-pumped again to get enough to keep it out of a tire barrier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbrew8991 Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 soft pedal that doesn't do anything = fluid fade hard pedal that doesn't do anything = pad fade sometimes you get a mix of both note to self - 100% stock RX8 brakes are decent, but not quite track capable... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.