New guy with some questions...

[Bullcrappy]

Not new to cars, but mainly a drag racer guy and just working on older muscle cars. Had been planning on doing a Miata or Fox Body stang for track days. Baby coming and well i think you know what happened at least to this year.

 

I have 2005 Ram 1500 w/5.7, short bed/stdrd cab, 3.90 rear, chip, intake and full exhaust. run 14.9x's in quarter but i am guessing trucks are a no no. unless lowered?

 

Other ride is a 69 chevelle, lowered 1", ALL new suspension and upgraded as follows:

AGR quick ration steering box

QA1 adjustable shocks

all new springs

1" rear sway bar

1 3/8" front sway bar

new box upper/lower rear control arms

front upper/lower tubular control arms

disc brakes

OD trans in a week or two.

350/375hp/412trq

4.11 rear

 

Question is could i use this car to get me thru HPDE1? and maybe HPDE2? till i have a real track car ready for Spring?

 

http://photobucket.com/Rich69Chevelle

 

thanks for any info

rich

[Renntag]

Rich,

 

Congrats on the new addition to the family! Many of us are walking the same path. Enjoy.

 

You have a beautiful car. It would certainly be well received in the paddock by those of us that have an appreciation for the manly cars.

 

 

You also have a pretty sweet truck by the sounds of it. With so many toys and a new child, it's going to be tough to make a run at starting driving school unless you are truly blessed and have spousal approval.

 

As for your car choices early in your post, I'd say that the Miata is the cheapest to run as it wears its tires and brakes over a longer service life. I'd be lying to you if I didnt admit that I'd pick the foxbody over anything else for a variety of reasons, the V8 being the first on that list. Either way, those are two great choices, but given the direction it seems your automotive soul leans already, I'd have to say that a V8 will be hard to ignore.

 

Welcome to the forum and the NASA family. Best place to start is by visiting the events and listening to other drivers. Don't get caught up in mods as the focus of HPDE and NASA in general is driver development. Your most valuable asset in this sport is the squishy bit between the wheel and the seat. Money spent on events is better than on flashy go fast stuff. A well trained driver will go faster in lesser equipment than the guy that writes checks for the latest goodies.

 

Best of luck and get out to observe an event if you haven't already.

[t500hps]

I started a year ago and although looking, haven't been able to put myself in a dedicated track car.....yet.

 

So I'm running an SRT8 Charger that I've had to make a few mods to so it holds up. Horsepower on the track is near the bottom of "needs". Lateral forces your car will take will be much more of a factor. Braking will be the single most important thing you need to deal with. I promise you have never worked a set of brakes like you do on the track. My 4 piston Brembo's have turned from red to deep burgundy from the heat. This is with a race compound pad and rotors. Tires are next, street tires are best cause they squeal like a pig. This feedback lets you know before the tires give out in a turn....which will be different than anything you've done before.

 

Trust me, you will go out and think you are fast as crap........and after a few weekends soon realize how slow you were your first weekend. (we all did it, don't attack this with an ego or it will bite you in the azz)

 

BTW: Virtually no-one goes from road courses to drag racing.....be prepared to be hooked!!!

[Renntag]

...Braking will be the single most important thing you need to deal with. ...

 

Good advice. Dealing with the heat generated by the braking needs of track driving is key. The heat range of the brake material is important and if there are not high temp pads and shoes available for your set up, send a set to Carbotech and they will line yours for you.

Ducts to the front rotors to direct ample cooling air is crucial if you are going to experience high heat.

 

Stay calm and keep your eyes looking as far ahead as possible. Mistakes happen when you look too close to the front of your vehicle.

 

something I hadnt thought about before, does your Malibu have 3 point harnesses or just lap belts?

[Knownukes]

The Chevelle is a pretty heavy car and will streess the brakes alot. If you decide to run it, try to run some brake ducts. Figure out a way to mount them under the bumper(I think you should have enough clearance). That way you wont have to cut up the bodywork on such a nice car, that you are just using for the short term.

[Stoopalini]

Yes, you could use the Chevelle to get you through HPDE. Just keep in mind, you are out on a race track, where anything can happen. You need to be 'ok' with going off course or possibly taking some damage from others. Not that it happens frequently, but for example, I had a piece of track debris tear the passenger mirror off my car during an event. Something came off another car in front of me and bounced in the air, then hit my mirror mid-corner.

 

That said, if you decide to run it, just get some good brake fluid, pads, and tires and go have fun. Your first few weekends will not be about going fast, it will be about learning and following the direction of your instructor(s). I wouldn't do any modifications to the car except fluid, pads and tires, and go have fun.

 

If the brakes fade on you, then just let up for a lap or two and let them cool down. Again, it's not about turning fast laps in DE1/2, it's about learning the ropes of getting around the course.

[beerkat]

Speaking from the experience of running a full size truck on track I would not do it. I started with a 2001 F150 Lightning and for the first couple of events it was fine. As soon as I started to pick up speed I would go through rotors and brake pads in less than a day. Trying to slow down a 4500 pound truck repeatedly is very hard on brakes. Miata would be a good way to go.

[sixshooter]

If you still have the stock style '69 caliper, these pads will fit and will be of a temperature range where you should not experience pad fade on the track: http://www.jegs.com/i/Hawk/486/HB103E.590/10002/-1?CT=999

 

Since 80+% of braking effort occurs at the front wheels I would not initially concern myself with the rear drum linings other than ensuring the shoes are properly adjusted. You shouldn't need to concern yourself with the rears for the first couple of trackdays.

 

You will still need to bleed the brakes well with fresh fluid from a previously unopened bottle the week before the event.

 

There are two types of brake fade, pad fade and fluid fade. Pad fade comes from pad material that is unable to withstand the heat, and fluid fade (or boiling the fluid) comes from exceeding the temperature that the fluid can withstand without boiling. The brake fluid absorbs water from the brake system to help to prevent corrosion but by doing so, lowers its boiling point significantly. Exposure to the air allows the brake fluid to absorb moisture (hence why an unopened bottle is good) and moisture also intrudes through seals, rubber lines, and even through the air every time the master cylinder cap is removed. On racecars it isn't uncommon to bleed the brakes with fresh fluid before each major event. And they try not to do it on a rainy day.

 

The good news is that your car should weigh around 3650 lbs, which is lighter than the SRT8's and some of the other cars out there, and your upgraded sway bars and steering box should make it much more fun than it would have been otherwise. My old '68 Pontiac has similar sway bar and steering box upgrades so I know about how it handles. Brakes are your single biggest need. I wouldn't worry about tires. Street tires are fine. Good luck.