velocitymotorsports Posted September 2, 2012 Posted September 2, 2012 In the rules it states that the nissan brake duct kit may be used. Here is my question. Do we have to use the supplied naca ducts with the kit? Whats the final say on what position they must be in? Any holes in the bumper allowed for better airflow? Thanks. Hope someone can clarify this for me. Quote
Palmettogasman Posted September 5, 2012 Posted September 5, 2012 Good question. I just received the duct kit from Nissan and was wondering how much modifying I can do to the front fascia. Quote
esr Posted September 6, 2012 Posted September 6, 2012 the rear brakes get very hot too, do they offer anything for the rear? Quote
dkmura Posted September 6, 2012 Posted September 6, 2012 the rear brakes get very hot too, do they offer anything for the rear? There's nothing allowed for the rears. But unless you're using the standard (not Brembo) calipers and rotors, the rear brakes don't take nearly the punishment of the fronts. Quote
obzezzed350 Posted September 6, 2012 Posted September 6, 2012 the rear brakes get very hot too, do they offer anything for the rear? There's nothing allowed for the rears. But unless you're using the standard (not Brembo) calipers and rotors, the rear brakes don't take nearly the punishment of the fronts. Yep, rear brembos do fine. Before I changed my fronts to ST40s, I would go through 4 sets of fronts to every set of rear Quote
velocitymotorsports Posted September 6, 2012 Author Posted September 6, 2012 We did some testing and were finding that the front rotor temps were almost 1000 degrees in pit lane. The rears were at 600. The rear temps were fine for the pad combo. We are using carbotech brakes with the brembos. I was surprised at how little effect the nissan brake cooling kit had on lowering temps. I have thought about removing the undertray for some more airflow. Has anyone done that and had better brake cooling? Also what about running 2 2in hoses on each side. Essentially run 2 nissan brake duct kits in the front. Thanks for the responses. Quote
supraman95 Posted September 10, 2012 Posted September 10, 2012 the rear brakes get very hot too, do they offer anything for the rear? There's nothing allowed for the rears. But unless you're using the standard (not Brembo) calipers and rotors, the rear brakes don't take nearly the punishment of the fronts. Yep, rear brembos do fine. Before I changed my fronts to ST40s, I would go through 4 sets of fronts to every set of rear I am confused. So you are running stoptech st40's in front? Is that allowed in spec. z? I hope so as it looks like they are the same size but do not go through pads as fast. Quote
scotts300 Posted September 10, 2012 Posted September 10, 2012 I am confused. So you are running stoptech st40's in front? Is that allowed in spec. z? I hope so as it looks like they are the same size but do not go through pads as fast. Nope, not allowed. Quote
laze1 Posted September 10, 2012 Posted September 10, 2012 obzezzed350 runs in PTA, NOT Spec Z, but he is the Florida Spec Z Race Director Quote
jmark350z Posted October 3, 2012 Posted October 3, 2012 Per Bill S. on the my350z page. Another reason to run a Nismo Z & or its bodywork. The rest of his writeup is here. http://my350z.com/forum/autocross-road/547142-new-nasa-class-for-2012-spec-z-56.html Brake fade - personally, after running large brake ducts from the nismo bumper side vents pulling direct frontal pressure (moved from naca under car vents) and ducted directly to the inside opening of the back of the rotor, and running carbotech pads, my issues were gone and i would not see any fade through the entire race even at notoriously bad tracks. I will admit i've always been an early braker so some of you more aggressive brakers may still find fade. Still, it is liveable. Rebuild your calipers fairly often. The dust covers will burn. That doesn't matter. Once you are driving hard, rebuild your rotors after a few race weekends. Stretch and inspect the orings. If they show cracks, you may need to rebuild them in shorter intervals. If they are perfect, try longer intervals. Once i fixed the ducting on my car, my interval was 4 to 6 weekends, and i never found a brittle oring again. Quote
esr Posted October 3, 2012 Posted October 3, 2012 can you post some good pics of your ducting, nismo bumper combo? Per Bill S. on the my350z page. Another reason to run a Nismo Z & or its bodywork. The rest of his writeup is here. http://my350z.com/forum/autocross-road/547142-new-nasa-class-for-2012-spec-z-56.html Brake fade - personally, after running large brake ducts from the nismo bumper side vents pulling direct frontal pressure (moved from naca under car vents) and ducted directly to the inside opening of the back of the rotor, and running carbotech pads, my issues were gone and i would not see any fade through the entire race even at notoriously bad tracks. I will admit i've always been an early braker so some of you more aggressive brakers may still find fade. Still, it is liveable. Rebuild your calipers fairly often. The dust covers will burn. That doesn't matter. Once you are driving hard, rebuild your rotors after a few race weekends. Stretch and inspect the orings. If they show cracks, you may need to rebuild them in shorter intervals. If they are perfect, try longer intervals. Once i fixed the ducting on my car, my interval was 4 to 6 weekends, and i never found a brittle oring again. Quote
jmark350z Posted October 4, 2012 Posted October 4, 2012 This info is from Bill S. the driver of the orange Nismo 350Z. I would contact him direct for pics etc. Hopefully he has some before the car was written off at MO.... [email protected] can you post some good pics of your ducting, nismo bumper combo? Per Bill S. on the my350z page. Another reason to run a Nismo Z & or its bodywork. The rest of his writeup is here. http://my350z.com/forum/autocross-road/547142-new-nasa-class-for-2012-spec-z-56.html Brake fade - personally, after running large brake ducts from the nismo bumper side vents pulling direct frontal pressure (moved from naca under car vents) and ducted directly to the inside opening of the back of the rotor, and running carbotech pads, my issues were gone and i would not see any fade through the entire race even at notoriously bad tracks. I will admit i've always been an early braker so some of you more aggressive brakers may still find fade. Still, it is liveable. Rebuild your calipers fairly often. The dust covers will burn. That doesn't matter. Once you are driving hard, rebuild your rotors after a few race weekends. Stretch and inspect the orings. If they show cracks, you may need to rebuild them in shorter intervals. If they are perfect, try longer intervals. Once i fixed the ducting on my car, my interval was 4 to 6 weekends, and i never found a brittle oring again. Quote
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