BigHungry Posted April 22, 2013 Author Share Posted April 22, 2013 Here's a update.....been working on the electrical for the last 3 days and still not finished but I want it done right so I not rushing with it. Decide to do the brakes next before finish work on the the body. Fitted the hood and pins. After getting the hood out, I realized the hood vents are backwards. They will end up bring more air in to engine bay rather than vent out. I believe it will be ok bc there is 3in gap along the back of the hood to vent out all the incoming air. If not then I'll modify the hood later on. Rear window with mr10 lexan Built some door air ducts. Used old mirror bracket to bolt to. Same on passenger side. Added mr10 lexan quarter windows and added a double duct. Same on both sides. bottom ones for rear brakes. One of the other two is for the heat shield around the oil tank and the other for driver cooling. Door latch pulls Built some transport windows. There are 3 bolts along the bottom of the window also. Working on the center console switch box then fitting gauges into the dash. Then on to the brakes. Hopefully get it started back up next weekend. Only 25 days til Putnam Park. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra4B Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 Any reason the hood slats are backwards? Cheap aftermarket hood where the designers didn't know what they were doing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigHungry Posted April 23, 2013 Author Share Posted April 23, 2013 Any reason the hood slats are backwards? Cheap aftermarket hood where the designers didn't know what they were doing? yeah... cheap aftermarket hood designers didn't understand the concept of hood venting. I bought this hood about 10 months ago. Free shipping and 100 bucks off..couldn't pass it up. I opened it to chk for damage then put it away until last week. The vents had sealed cover plates underneath them and I think they intended to be non-functioning. I cut the plates off to make them functional but then notice the vents were backwards. Tonight as I was sitting at my workbench wiring my switch box, i kept looking at the hood trying to figure out how to fix the bad hood design without completely making new inserts or destroying the hood. On the back of each slat is about an inch of material across each slat can be cut out. It would leave the flat part of the slant on top and be open on front and back to hopefully relieve some hood pressure. A pic would probably explain it better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[email protected] Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 I am truly amazed at the depth of this project, your abilities, and the looks and quality of each finished section. I wish you the very best on the rest of this engineering masterpiece! Keep up the great work, you are an inspiration for many. Steve Nix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigHungry Posted April 26, 2013 Author Share Posted April 26, 2013 Here's a mid week update... Worked on the poorly designed hood vents. Vents open on the front. Back of the vents. Going to cut out the back to hopefully fix the problem. That should get it..... Got all the wiring to the relay/fuse boxes. The engine harness, ecm, fuel eletrical all hooked up. Don't mind the rats nest on the dash bar. It's all the wires going to the gauges and warning lights. Made up 5 plugs to connect the center switch box. Some are power wires and some are just sensor or relay control wires. The center console switch box. E-stop, ign switch, starter, cooling fan, LB HB lights, Wiper on/off, wiper normal/intermediate select, trans/diff temp select, LP HP Fuel pump, and couple of extra AUX switches. No labels yet. I ran out of label ribbon. Dash all painted black, built and installed gauge panels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigHungry Posted April 29, 2013 Author Share Posted April 29, 2013 Weekend update..... I finished up the electrical and the dash. Re-installed the radiator. Installed the clutch and brake lines. All the electrical check out with no issues except the wipers need a speed signal to run in normal mode. I'm hoping that all is need is to run a wire from the signal out terminal of the speedo to the wiper module speed sensor wire. The rear brake line need a 45 deg fitting on a SS line so i decided to try and get the LS3 running. I primed 2 qts of oil through the remote filter to the engine. Filled the supply line from the drysump tank to the oil pump with about 2 qts then filled the tank with the remaining 8 qts of break in oil. Double checked evrything and gave it a try. It fired right up and sounded soooo sweeet. I was a little worried about only getting 20psi oil pressure at idle. Once the oil warmed up, it was back to 30 psi idle and 60 psi at 3-4K. Everything looked good. No oil leaks, fuel leaks, or water leaks. The only issue I'm having is the tach signal isn't working and the MIL (malfunction indicator light) is on. Everything runs and sounds good. I figure something is grounding or a crossed wire. I will trace it down the next few days while I wait for my brake fittings to show up. I can also fix my wiper issue while i have the dash apart. I never thought I would say that I looking forward to finishing the bodywork and paint. So to conclude.....The LS3 is running again with a couple of small electrical issues to solve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
braknl8 Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 Man, that's clean Did you tell me you were going to have it at RA in June or Aug? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Varkwso Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 Looking forward to seeing this car! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra4B Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 Very nice... any issue bumping those switches with your right elbow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigHungry Posted April 30, 2013 Author Share Posted April 30, 2013 Man, that's clean Did you tell me you were going to have it at RA in June or Aug? I'm planning on being at RA with NASA in Sept and again in Dec. I will going to Putnam Park, Gingerman for next few events (less walls and more open grass) to get the car and me sorted out. I will be at RA in June with MVP track time on Sat jun 22nd. My Dad is having to stay in Atlanta for the next 6 months on business. It was my Christmas gift to give a ride this year in my new car at a world class track. MVP allows guests with helmets to ride along. I don't plan on pushing the car at all and will run 6/7 10ths. Just going to enjoy the day with my Dad at the track. Very nice... any issue bumping those switches with your right elbow? Not an issue. When I fitted the steering and pedal locations, I also check switch box clearance. It's about 5-6 inches below my elbow with my hands in any position on the wheel or while shifting. The box sits lower in relation to the seat than pics show. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigHungry Posted May 3, 2013 Author Share Posted May 3, 2013 I figured out my electrical issues. The remote MIL required a 12v source not a grd. The ECM switches to grd if a error occurs. Plugged warning light into a 12v and ok now. The tach signal wire was not strong enough for the aftermarket tach. I went ahead and bought an AutoMeter adapter module. Hooked everything up and now have working tach and shift light. I connected the 5v speed out to the wiper module. This should work but I won't know til I test drive. From all the info I could find, the wiper needs a 5v sq sin wave pulse to active it in normal speed. If not then I will just connect the switch to fast mode. I also finished bleeding the brakes. Decided to go with Torque700. Had some leftover Motul that I first filled system for the initial bleed and then Trq700 until the motul was removed from the system. Torque700 ain't cheap and didn't want to waste it with just line filling. Will bleed them again before test drive. Fri, Sat and Sun is all bodywork and paint. I will have this thing painted by Sun afternoon. 14 days til Putnam Park Things left to do after paint: Build wing brackets, rear diffuser, exhaust tip heat shields Installed seats, harnesses, shifter, bar padding, mirrors Install headlights, taillights, front bumper air ducts, hood pin bolts Corner balance, alignment Test drive 300-400 miles to break in engine(still street legal in KY ), bed brakes Change oil and filter, load on trailer, hope for good weather, and have some fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigHungry Posted May 15, 2013 Author Share Posted May 15, 2013 Almost left it flat black and just put a silver number on it. Installed hood pins Built diffuser Installed mirrors Installed shifter Almost Done.....Still need to install wing and splitter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigHungry Posted May 15, 2013 Author Share Posted May 15, 2013 Here is a small teaser video til I get a longer version of the finished car with some drive bys. 2OWZulBhzoU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra4B Posted May 15, 2013 Share Posted May 15, 2013 Sounds nasty. What are the cam specs again? Did you make the shifter handle yourself? I need to make one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
braknl8 Posted May 15, 2013 Share Posted May 15, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigHungry Posted May 21, 2013 Author Share Posted May 21, 2013 Sounds nasty. What are the cam specs again? Did you make the shifter handle yourself? I need to make one. Valve Lift (in): 0.525" intake / 0.525" exhaust Camshaft Duration (@0.050 in): 226° intake / 236° exhaust 110-degree lobe separation angle The shifter is 3/4 alum rod, heated and bent. Shifter knob is 1 1/2 UHMW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
das borgen Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 MOTHER OF GOD this is beautiful Mark, awesome meeting you this weekend at Putnam! It was cool getting a 1st hand look and tour of the tour by you on Sunday. I very much appreciated it! Rich- the fat black guy with the yellow M3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigHungry Posted May 23, 2013 Author Share Posted May 23, 2013 Hey Rich, Thanks for compliments. It was nice meeting you too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigHungry Posted May 23, 2013 Author Share Posted May 23, 2013 (edited) Hi everyone, I finished up the build of my new track car. I would like to present BigHungry Racing's BMW GTR e36 serial# BHR001. Here are some of the initial setup/wgt numbers for those interested. 3080 lbs - Weight w/o driver 10 gal fuel 3380 lbs - wgt w/driver 10 gal fuel (yes I'm 300, love to cook and eat) 475 whp - est hp (will get official dyno in Sept) All weights w/driver 50% - cross wgt 48.8% frt 51.2% rear 50.7% driver side 49.3% pass side 0 - Front toe 1/4 inch rear toe in (1/8 in each side) -3.0 deg frt camber -1.5 deg rear camber 65% initial frt/rear brake bias Spent an insane amount of money to go stupid fast. 775 hrs build labor 100+ hrs R&D I didn't get to test drive the car before the track event. Had a few issue to work on after getting to Putnam Park. Power steering was intermittent on Fri and Sat. It had air in the system and it took a few sessions to get it out. The rear brake were soft and still had little air in the caliper. Bled brakes and everything firmed right up. The water temp was little hot (250 deg) but I hadn't boxed in the radiator. The air is not being forced through the radiator. Boxing this in should fix cooling issue. The air/oil separator for the drysump tank vent kept filling up after a couple of sessions. I'm going to look into getting a tank with a vent built in that returns the oil back to the tank. Had a slight rear tire lock up on hard braking. Adjusted balance bar 1 full turn to frt and took care of that issue. Here's a couple of videos. A warm up lap of first time out on Sat http://youtu.be/7itaJvcV8ck The first few laps are from a Sat session. Still had PS issues and was breaking in the engine short shifting at 4K. The last couple of laps are from Sun session. Changed oil Sun morning, added frt brake ducts, and PS issue resolved. Opened the car a bit and it feels very neutral. Rotates through the corners with very little understeer and has a great throttle steer response on corner exit. I was hitting 140mph @ Putnam Park front stretch w/o WOT and letting up early before braking zone. The brakes felt great and was easy to modulate. http://youtu.be/c7g4hj5Duus This will conclude this build thread unless I make a major change to the car. Otherwise, I will post a under a new topic or video section. Thanks to everyone for their help and comments. -- Mark Edited May 31, 2013 by Guest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[email protected] Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 Hey, I'm excited for you. The car looks and sounds so good. congratulations on all your efforts. I wouldn't mind another episode on this thread. Steve Nix Hi everyone, I finished up the build of my new track car. I would like to present BigHungry Racing's BMW GTR e36 serial# BHR001. Here are some of the initial setup/wgt numbers for those interested. 3080 lbs - Weight w/o driver 10 gal fuel 3380 lbs - wgt w/driver 10 gal fuel (yes I'm 300, love to cook and eat) 475 whp - est hp (will get official dyno in Sept) All weights w/driver 50% - cross wgt 48.8% frt 51.2% rear 50.7% driver side 49.3% pass side 0 - Front toe 1/4 inch rear toe in (1/8 in each side) -3.0 deg frt camber -1.5 deg rear camber 65% initial frt/rear brake bias $43K invested 775 hrs build labor 100+ hrs R&D I didn't get to test drive the car before the track event. Had a few issue to work on after getting to Putnam Park. Power steering was intermittent on Fri and Sat. It had air in the system and it took a few sessions to get it out. The rear brake were soft and still had little air in the caliper. Bled brakes and everything firmed right up. The water temp was little hot (250 deg) but I hadn't boxed in the radiator. The air is not being forced through the radiator. Boxing this in should fix cooling issue. The air/oil separator for the drysump tank vent kept filling up after a couple of sessions. I'm going to look into getting a tank with a vent built in that returns the oil back to the tank. Had a slight rear tire lock up on hard braking. Adjusted balance bar 1 full turn to frt and took care of that issue. Here's a couple of videos. A warm up lap of first time out on Sat http://youtu.be/7itaJvcV8ck The first few laps are from a Sat session. Still had PS issues and was breaking in the engine short shifting at 4K. The last couple of laps are from Sun session. Changed oil Sun morning, added frt brake ducts, and PS issue resolved. Opened the car a bit and it feels very neutral. Rotates through the corners with very little understeer and has a great throttle steer response on corner exit. I was hitting 140mph @ Putnam Park front stretch w/o WOT and letting up early before braking zone. The brakes felt great and was easy to modulate. http://youtu.be/2UYmBxI-bQI This will conclude this build thread unless I make a major change to the car. Otherwise, I will post a under a new topic or video section. Thanks to everyone for their help and comments. -- Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra4B Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 Wow... 775 hours. Part of me would like to know how many hours I spend on this stuff as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drivinhardz06 Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 $43K invested 775 hrs build labor 100+ hrs R&D Mark you're an idiot, you broke the golden rule, you never add up the receipts Looks good, can't wait to see it. 775 hrs, obviously you aren't married Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
braknl8 Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 Good job, Mark. You built exactly what you described to me about a year ago....and it looks great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra4B Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 $43K invested 775 hrs build labor 100+ hrs R&D Mark you're an idiot, you broke the golden rule, you never add up the receipts Looks good, can't wait to see it. 775 hrs, obviously you aren't married This is true... hours is one thing. NEVER add up receipts. And "invested" should surely be in quotes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drivinhardz06 Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 And "invested" should surely be in quotes. Invested = piled it up in the driveway and set it on fire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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