Jump to content
larsend

SPEC Iron M-5638-B/M-5638-C front lower control arm bushings

Recommended Posts

larsend

From the rules

7.14 Suspension

7.14.3 Ford Racing M-5638-B or M-5638-C front lower control arm bushings are permitted.

 

Here's the parts and how to save half..........

 

M-5638-C.jpg

 

2005-2013 MUSTANG COMPETITION FRONT BUSHING KIT M-5638-C Kit Suggested Retail Price $589.00 (my cost $412.50)

• Low drag front lower control arm bushing kit for 2005-2013 Mustang

• Original equipment on 2013 Mustang Cobra Jet and Mustang Boss 302S

• Fits Mustang Boss 302R, FR500C, FR500S, 2005-2013 Mustang GT, V-6, Shelby GT-500 and 2011-2012 Mustang Boss 302

• Allows wider range of caster adjustment than stock.

• Smaller and lighter that production bushings – ideal for header access

• Low drag removes the bushing as a damping force allowing suspension to be better “dialed-in through shock tuning

• Increased stiffness for minimal suspension deflection

• Increased steering response

• Includes Delron/Aluminum bushing with mounting bracket

• Recommended for off-road use

 

M-5638-B.jpg

 

FR500C BUSHING KIT, FRONT M-5638-B Suggested Retail Price $43.95 (my cost 43.10)

• Service replacement for Mustang FR500C Race Car M-FR500-C

• Fits lower control arm M-3075-R

• Use with FR500C caster adjuster M-3052-R1

 

 

Mustang Caster Adjuster FR part Number M-3052-R1 (this is the bracket only); the FR500C, Boss 302R and Boss 302S used this but it’s no longer available from Ford Racing.

 

There are however two left on eBay for $220.00

 

casteradjusters.png

 

FR500C CASTER ADJUSTER

• Service replacement for Mustang FR500C Race Car M-FR500-C

• Allows for the adjustment of caster on FR500C

• FR500C Front Bushing Kit required M-5638-B

• Bushing kit not included with caster adjusters

 

So for $220.00 plus the bushings $43.95 you would have the M-5638-C Kit for half price.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-RACING-MUSTANG-FR500C-CASTER-ADJUSTERS-M-3052-R1-/370227914125?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item56334da58d&vxp=mtr

 

Hope this helps someone save a few bucks.

 

Kind of strange Ford Racing no longer has the cheaper option available…….

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
DocB

Are the bushings the same in both kits?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
larsend

Mustang Caster Adjuster FR part Number M-3052-R1 (the part on Ebay/no longer avilable from FR) does not have the bushings, it requires bushing kit M-5638-B (Just the bushings).

 

The complete kit is M-5638-C Mustang Competition Front Bushing Kit M-5638-C

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
DocB

Thanks for the FYI and explaination. I understand.

We have been getting ready to do the bushing upgrade.

I know what the bushings in the -C kit look like, it is just that I have never seen the -B (FR500C) bushing kit for comparison.

 

From your posted pics, the two bushings on the left in both kits look different, but it is hard to tell what material these bushings in the -B is made from.

 

Could you please comment on these bushings in the -B kit and their material of construction?

 

Bruno.....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
mwilson7

B is urethane bushings and C is delrin bushings. Big difference between the two.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
DocB

I am planning on installing the -C bushings, but am a little disappointed that all the bushings will not be hard.

Suspension set-up and alignment are very important to me, and I have learned that rubber and poly are not the best for my application.

 

In the -C kit, why do you think the rear bushings are urethane and not Delrin like the front?

 

Is there a reason why one would want some "give" at the rear of the LCA?

 

Bruno.....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
marshallmosty
I am planning on installing the -C bushings, but am a little disappointed that all the bushings will not be hard.

Suspension set-up and alignment are very important to me, and I have learned that rubber and poly are not the best for my application.

 

In the -C kit, why do you think the rear bushings are urethane and not Delrin like the front?

 

Is there a reason why one would want some "give" at the rear of the LCA?

 

Bruno.....

 

 

You don't want delrin in the back primarily due to the arc length differencese between the upper 3rd link and the lower control arms. That creates roll bind that was so prevalent in the '79-'04 Mustang 4-link suspension.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
DocB

Marshall, we are talking about the front and rear bushings on a Front Lower Control Arm, correct?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
marshallmosty
Marshall, we are talking about the front and rear bushings on a Front Lower Control Arm, correct?

 

If that's the case, nevermind... My post was for the rear...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Rehagen Racing

We believe it has more to do with overall cost than anything else. It probably would have been cost prohibitive for the front/rear bushing to be delrin as well. The only bushings that had issue previously was the front/front and this is now delrin.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
hhdinyuma

Can anyone provide a little help with installing these? I can't find any install info anywhere. Specifically, Any tips on removing the rear bushing, and a photo of the completed install showing the correct mounting of the new bushings on the front and rear of the LCA would help a lot. I am installing on new LCA's with the stock bushings on them. I have a press but just made a mess of the rear bushing and still can't get it to budge!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
olaaf

Haha, yeah it’s a little tricky.

 

The rear bushing is hellspawn. I heated mine with a torch and chewed it mostly off with a sawzall until all that was exposed was the knurled sleeve over the inner shaft. This sleeve must be pressed off. What I did was weld 2 pieces of angle to the sleeve and then put it in a press- pressed the inner shaft against the angle on the sleeve and it popped out.

 

I can take a picture over the weekend, but there are 2 ways to install the bushings. The right way, and the way that will fall out when you are on track (ask me how I know).

 

The rear bushing has 2 pieces, slide the little one on first, and then the larger one making sure it’s flange is retained by the bracket, there is nothing else holding it in.

 

The forward delrin bushing has a little offset spacer. The holes on the K-member for the new rear bracket will only line up with the spacer in the right orientation.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
hhdinyuma
I can take a picture over the weekend, but there are 2 ways to install the bushings. The right way, and the way that will fall out when you are on track (ask me how I know).

 

Doh...That sucks. I was looking at the two bushing pieces and figured that was how they had to be installed or else the whole thing would fall out. Just didn't seem right that that was all that holds them in place. I assume you put the small bushing on first next to the inner part of the shaft on the LCA with the flat part touching the bushing that is installed in the bracket right? In other words, you install the small bushing on the shaft with the concave part first so it touches the LCA and not the bracket.

 

Thanks...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
olaaf
concave part first so it touches the LCA and not the bracket.

 

Thanks...

 

correct, then the bracket will then be able to push in far enough to line up with the holes in the k-member, as long as the delrin spacer is orientated correctly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
hhdinyuma

Perfect...Thanks. I also noticed that the mounting holes in the bracket are different sizes and that the holes in the K-Member are also different. Does the bracket align with the larger of the two holes to the inside of the K-Member which also has the elongated hole?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
hhdinyuma

Did it look like this when you were pressing it out? This thing doesn't want to budge at all!!

 

NDU2MDhGNDFCNDkxODYwQTk3NDQ6Njg3NzJiYzU2M2QxYmI1NTViNjIwYWY5ODYxMzA3ZTE=?u=f2161342-1b95-408a-847f-9b315875d782

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
hhdinyuma

Whew...Got it out after cutting slits down both sides to loosen it. Does this assembly order look right for the left side?

 

NDU2MDhGNDFCNDkxODYwQTk3NDQ6OTQ5NTk3ZWIxYTc3M2IwODJkNjczM2VjMmM2YWMxMzA=?u=37fe6879-400c-4cad-ab84-25c7d72c6136

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
olaaf
Whew...Got it out after cutting slits down both sides to loosen it. Does this assembly order look right for the left side?

 

NDU2MDhGNDFCNDkxODYwQTk3NDQ6OTQ5NTk3ZWIxYTc3M2IwODJkNjczM2VjMmM2YWMxMzA=?u=37fe6879-400c-4cad-ab84-25c7d72c6136

 

that does look right, though i have forgotten about the different sized holes in the bracket, but it really fits only one way once it's centered. I can take a picture tomorrow..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
olaaf

sorry for the delay, this is my passenger side arm

 

arm.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
hhdinyuma

Thank man. I got both sides mocked up today and they look just like that. Your tips definitely helped clear up my confusion.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
stevepoe
sorry for the delay, this is my passenger side arm

 

arm.jpg

 

 

one thing for sure is your sure going to know if those bolts move

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
roadracebc1

Can a ball joint removal tool be used to remove and install the front delrin bushings? Thanks in advance for the help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×