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Least expensive engine for H2


AZELISE

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I was thinking a stock B18C1 for an Integra or a stock B16 for a civic would be a good, reliable engine to start with in H2 and not require an engine swap. Are there any other engines that are inexpensive and don't require lots of mods to be near the horsepower caps and be reliable.

 

B16CTR and B18C5 would be great but are expensive

D15/16 requires lots of mods

B18A/B require lots of mods to make power

B20 requires lots of mods to be reliable and make power

K20A3 would be perfect except for all the requirements for a swap

 

Opinions?

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Why not think in terms of what car you want to drive first? That's what I did and it made the decision pretty easy.power to weight ratio is a more limiting factor once you know how much your car weighs.i liked the coupe and figured the total shaved weight would put me at 2400lbs and chose a GSR so I didn't have add ballast and could tune the suspension a little easier. Some people like to add weight to where they want and tune that way also, so choose a lighter car or more powerful engine. Just make sure you're happy with the car you choose.makes it that much more fun I think.good luck and hope you make it out this season.

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B18B in stock H4 trim will make more than the 150hp cap for H2. Bolt it up to an ITR or B16 trans (same 1-5 gear ratios) with a good metal plate LSD and you will be good to go.

 

Just my humble $.02.

 

Regards,

 

Sam

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ILIKETODRIVE
B18B in stock H4 trim will make more than the 150hp cap for H2.

Please PM me details about how to achieve this. I'm at 139.49whp on a Dynojet with a VERY healthy B18B and an excellent tune.

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B18B in stock H4 trim will make more than the 150hp cap for H2. Bolt it up to an ITR or B16 trans (same 1-5 gear ratios) with a good metal plate LSD and you will be good to go

 

Sam

 

H4 trim as in 0.5 higher compression, valve job, ported head, tune? Or max H4 trim including oversize pistons, balance and blueprint?

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peterswarts
B18B in stock H4 trim will make more than the 150hp cap for H2.

Please PM me details about how to achieve this. I'm at 139.49whp on a Dynojet with a VERY healthy B18B and an excellent tune.

 

Fron my experience with the H22 I found that a hytech header, intake, 3" exhaust, and tune take it from 160 to over 190 without doing any other work to the motor. A good valve job would put it over the 200 mark (and the Nats cap). Running with my old weapon-R header and 2.5" exhaust kept me at the 180 mark. I would think the same principle would apply to other motors. The more the engine can breathe the better results.

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the b18b/b20 is a good engine. and remember, its allowed more in H2 parts wise than it is in h4. cams, intake mani, tb. you may spend some money on parts, but those engines can be had for ~$800 in good shape at the importer.

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I picked up B20B with a P8R head for $495.00.

milled the head

cams and sprockets

intake and TB

port matched

valve springs

swapped some race parts from my blown ITR motor

160 whp and 139 trq

on its third season for less than $1500.00

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ILIKETODRIVE
I picked up B20B with a P8R head for $495.00.

milled the head

cams and sprockets

intake and TB

port matched

valve springs

swapped some race parts from my blown ITR motor

160 whp and 139 trq

on its third season for less than $1500.00

Badass!

 

My B18B did 139.49whp with only 3 aftermarket parts: Comptech intake box and 2.5" cat delete and dyno tune. Intake arm/filter/header/exhaust are JDM ITR.

Thottle body to oil pan is 100% factory Honda.

I have a built head (machine work and Crower valvetrain) and 99-00 B20 cams to swap on in the near future.

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