2000 Cobra R Brembos, good enough?

[Tbaker95]

Hi,

Is/has anyone run these, they look like the best brakes for the money. I have a 94 GT and I am currently running stock brakes with Hawk pads and rotors, they work okay. Are the Brembos good enough or should I keep saving, or even better spend my money on aero and or lexan?

 

I appreciate your input.

 

Thx,

Tommy

[UBR]

If you're talking about the 2 piston Cobra R factory calipers, it depends on how much your car weighs and how hard you are going to drive it. I ran them on my AI Fox Mustang for a couple of years. I thought they did OK. The car weighed a little over 3000 lbs and they would fade a bit if I was on high braking tracks. Any more weight than that and I think you'd have heating/fade issues.

 

A couple of years ago I switched to 4 piston BrakeMan and now 4 piston 13 inch Brembos. Both were noticeably better. They stopped slightly faster, but were easier to modulate and didn't fade.

 

If you want to get a cost effective brake on the car and start saving for the good stuff, that's an option. Or you can write a big check and be done.

 

j

[coupe331]

I use the 2000 Cobra R 4 piston Brembo’s on my AI car (2950lbs with me in it). I would consider them the bare minimum for a light AI car. I use the cryo stop (frozen) rotors from tirerack with Hawk DTC 70 pads, Motul 600 fluid, and very good Agent 47 ducting. I used to buy the Brembo rotors but can’t find them anymore. I get about 3 weekends out of a set of pads and rotors. By the 4th weekend on a set of rotors they will get a screw driver sized crack in them. With the amount of money I spend on rotors and pads I should have bought better brakes a long time ago. I’d like to get some Stop techs soon. So unless you are getting the 2000 Cobra R Bembo’s cheap I would save for some real racing brakes.

[Tbaker95]

Thank you for the replies, that is what I was looking for. After a little more checking the Brembo kit does not come with pads and I would have to get a different m/c so they are not as good a deal as I thought. I will look into Stop Tech and maybe Wilwoods.

[marshallmosty]

There are several "top tier" setups out there (Performance Friction, StopTech, Willwood, etc). I use the StopTech ST40 13" kit on my AI Mustang. It's been as light as 2760, but now is approx 3050 and the StopTechs don't seem to care... I've been on the same set of rotor rings for 15+ weekends. They don't seem to wear. The replacement rings are pricey ($250 ea), but I've never needed them. Pad life is approx 2.5-3 times longer than the PBR Cobra setup I replaced.

 

For me it was a twofold decision to "bite the bullet". The first was pad and rotor life. I was getting 3 track days out of pads and rotors. At $160 for pads and $80 for a set of rotors, I was spending $160 per weekend on brake related expenses. Now at $300/set for pads, and virtually no rotor wear, the cost has averaged out to $100 weekend. $60 per weekend isn't a big savings considering the large buy-in on the kit, but the hassle factor of not having to pull wheels, calipers, and rotors every few race days... Now I just pull the caliper bridge to replace pads and can have both sides done in 10 minutes.

 

The second consideration was the ability to more accurately modulate the brakes at the limit of ABS actuation (for me at least). I have FR ABS on my car, so this kinda doesn't matter since you can just stuff your foot on the pedal and let the computer handle the rest (I know, I know, ABS is a crutch and encompasses all things evil...).

 

If you are wanting to eventually run up front in AI, you will need a decent set of brakes.

[Tbaker95]

Hey Marshall, thank you for the info, everyone seems to be pretty high on Stop Tech so I looked into those and it looks like that will be my choice in the near future.

 

Thx Again,

Tommy

[bossman429]

I have these on my TTB/DE car. Car weighs #3200 w/ me in it and half a tank of gas. I'd say they work very well with Carbotech XP12s. I did notice a substantia decrease in rotor temps when i added 3" bract ducts. I mean dropped from 850+ to 450 when coming off the track. My one issue is I haven't found a rotor I'm happy with. After 4 or so weekends i get a bit of warping and some tiny cracks in the rotor. Granted I've only been using blank cryostop rotors. I too can not find brembo replacements any more.

 

I am thinking about trying DBA 5000 series 2 piece rotors. I dont mind changing the pads as often as I am, but i can't seem to figure out why I'm warping rotors after 4 weekends, even with the significantly reduced brake temps after putting the fronts on.

 

 

Note - i never had fade issues w/ the cobra R Brakes, even after long and HEAVY 30 minute sessions on fast tracks. I mainly put them on to try and extend pad and rotor life and they did do that somewhat.

 

I think the Cobra R Brakes are a good budget friendly upgrade over the PBR set up. The Galfer pads that come with it are actually pretty decent as well believe it or not.

[BigKeyserSoze]

I run StopTech 4 piston brakes on the front of my 1988 Fox Mustang AI car (3200 pounds), and they are fadeproof. I use Castrol SRF brake fluid, and so should you and everyone else. Its not that expensive, and the wet boil temp is high. Really high. The rotors have some basic ducting, and I have run both Hawk and Carbotech pads, although I prefer the Carbotech. The rotor rings have yet to crack (I have 4 weekends on them, and they had lots of time on them when I got the car), I carry spares and they are super pricey.

[Pantera1889]

There are several "top tier" setups out there (Performance Friction, StopTech, Willwood, etc). I use the StopTech ST40 13" kit on my AI Mustang. It's been as light as 2760, but now is approx 3050 and the StopTechs don't seem to care... I've been on the same set of rotor rings for 15+ weekends. They don't seem to wear. The replacement rings are pricey ($250 ea), but I've never needed them. Pad life is approx 2.5-3 times longer than the PBR Cobra setup I replaced.

 

For me it was a twofold decision to "bite the bullet". The first was pad and rotor life. I was getting 3 track days out of pads and rotors. At $160 for pads and $80 for a set of rotors, I was spending $160 per weekend on brake related expenses. Now at $300/set for pads, and virtually no rotor wear, the cost has averaged out to $100 weekend. $60 per weekend isn't a big savings considering the large buy-in on the kit, but the hassle factor of not having to pull wheels, calipers, and rotors every few race days... Now I just pull the caliper bridge to replace pads and can have both sides done in 10 minutes.

 

The second consideration was the ability to more accurately modulate the brakes at the limit of ABS actuation (for me at least). I have FR ABS on my car, so this kinda doesn't matter since you can just stuff your foot on the pedal and let the computer handle the rest (I know, I know, ABS is a crutch and encompasses all things evil...).

 

If you are wanting to eventually run up front in AI, you will need a decent set of brakes.

 

 

Marshall, What oads are you running?

 

Ron

[99cobra2881]

I run StopTech 4 piston brakes on the front of my 1988 Fox Mustang AI car (3200 pounds), and they are fadeproof. I use Castrol SRF brake fluid, and so should you and everyone else. Its not that expensive, and the wet boil temp is high. Really high. The rotors have some basic ducting, and I have run both Hawk and Carbotech pads, although I prefer the Carbotech. The rotor rings have yet to crack (I have 4 weekends on them, and they had lots of time on them when I got the car), I carry spares and they are super pricey.

 

Does your butler bleed the brakes for you too?

[marshallmosty]

There are several "top tier" setups out there (Performance Friction, StopTech, Willwood, etc). I use the StopTech ST40 13" kit on my AI Mustang. It's been as light as 2760, but now is approx 3050 and the StopTechs don't seem to care... I've been on the same set of rotor rings for 15+ weekends. They don't seem to wear. The replacement rings are pricey ($250 ea), but I've never needed them. Pad life is approx 2.5-3 times longer than the PBR Cobra setup I replaced.

 

For me it was a twofold decision to "bite the bullet". The first was pad and rotor life. I was getting 3 track days out of pads and rotors. At $160 for pads and $80 for a set of rotors, I was spending $160 per weekend on brake related expenses. Now at $300/set for pads, and virtually no rotor wear, the cost has averaged out to $100 weekend. $60 per weekend isn't a big savings considering the large buy-in on the kit, but the hassle factor of not having to pull wheels, calipers, and rotors every few race days... Now I just pull the caliper bridge to replace pads and can have both sides done in 10 minutes.

 

The second consideration was the ability to more accurately modulate the brakes at the limit of ABS actuation (for me at least). I have FR ABS on my car, so this kinda doesn't matter since you can just stuff your foot on the pedal and let the computer handle the rest (I know, I know, ABS is a crutch and encompasses all things evil...).

 

If you are wanting to eventually run up front in AI, you will need a decent set of brakes.

 

 

Marshall, What oads are you running?

 

Ron

 

Ron,

I run PFC01's. Everyone has their favorite. It was the set that I started with on these brakes and I was very impressed. I ran Carbotech's on my old PBR Cobra setup and burned thru them too quickly, so figured I'd try PFC with these. I'll never go to a different pad. They are just plain awesome.

[Pantera1889]

There are several "top tier" setups out there (Performance Friction, StopTech, Willwood, etc). I use the StopTech ST40 13" kit on my AI Mustang. It's been as light as 2760, but now is approx 3050 and the StopTechs don't seem to care... I've been on the same set of rotor rings for 15+ weekends. They don't seem to wear. The replacement rings are pricey ($250 ea), but I've never needed them. Pad life is approx 2.5-3 times longer than the PBR Cobra setup I replaced.

 

For me it was a twofold decision to "bite the bullet". The first was pad and rotor life. I was getting 3 track days out of pads and rotors. At $160 for pads and $80 for a set of rotors, I was spending $160 per weekend on brake related expenses. Now at $300/set for pads, and virtually no rotor wear, the cost has averaged out to $100 weekend. $60 per weekend isn't a big savings considering the large buy-in on the kit, but the hassle factor of not having to pull wheels, calipers, and rotors every few race days... Now I just pull the caliper bridge to replace pads and can have both sides done in 10 minutes.

 

The second consideration was the ability to more accurately modulate the brakes at the limit of ABS actuation (for me at least). I have FR ABS on my car, so this kinda doesn't matter since you can just stuff your foot on the pedal and let the computer handle the rest (I know, I know, ABS is a crutch and encompasses all things evil...).

 

If you are wanting to eventually run up front in AI, you will need a decent set of brakes.

 

 

Marshall, What oads are you running?

 

Ron

 

Ron,

I run PFC01's. Everyone has their favorite. It was the set that I started with on these brakes and I was very impressed. I ran Carbotech's on my old PBR Cobra setup and burned thru them too quickly, so figured I'd try PFC with these. I'll never go to a different pad. They are just plain awesome.

 

 

I agree! I switched from PFC to Hawk a while back . The performance was nearly equal but the pad/rotor wear was greatly increased. I have since switched back to the PFC 01s. I am using Stop Tech brakes.

 

Ron