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Making Switch to R-Comps, Recommended Pressures for R888?


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I'm wrapping up 2.5 years of DE in which I logged 34 days. First season I ran Hankook V12's. Second season I ran Star Spec Z1 and I just managed to cook my R-S3's this past weekend at NJMP. I've decided to replace the R-S3 with Toyo R888's. I know they get mixed reviews from Spec Miata and Porsche guys but after weighing all the arguments, I still felt this was the right first R-comp for me.

 

My question to you would be how to best manage these tires, specifically how much hot/cold pressures should I be running? My Z4 weighs approx 3100lbs with -2.8* up front, -2.0* in the rear and 450# and 550# springs. The tracks I mainly drive on are LRP, NJMP and Summit.

 

Also, assuming dry weather, would it be wise® to rotate tires left to right at the track after each day or wait till I get home and flip them after each event?

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Last year I bought a CMC mustang that came with 3 sets of tires/wheels. One set were R888's, the others were RA1's. Other than Hoosiers and Conti's I used on my SRT8 these are the only tires I have tried on track......the R888's were very easy to over-heat at Summit to the point they felt "squishy" after 3-4 laps and I lost 2-3 seconds per lap. The previous owner only used them as rain tires and I was told to run them 38-40 hot. (my car weighs 3250 with me in it).

 

Last time at Summit I ran shaved RA1's and picked back up those 3 seconds.

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You might also consider going with Nitto NT01's instead of the R888's. I believe that the NT01's have big tread blocks and may handle better and more consistently than the R888's. Also, the NT01 tread depth is 6/32" so you should be able to run them full tread and not worry about shaving them or having any of the tread chunking off. The NT01's probably wouldn't be very good in the rain though vs full tread R888's or RA1's though. For rotation, are your front and rear tires and wheel widths and offsets the same? If they're the same, then you should be able to just rotate front to rear. - Jim

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You might also consider going with Nitto NT01's instead of the R888's. I believe that the NT01's have big tread blocks and may handle better and more consistently than the R888's. Also, the NT01 tread depth is 6/32" so you should be able to run them full tread and not worry about shaving them or having any of the tread chunking off. The NT01's probably wouldn't be very good in the rain though vs full tread R888's or RA1's though. For rotation, are your front and rear tires and wheel widths and offsets the same? If they're the same, then you should be able to just rotate front to rear. - Jim

 

Correct, running 17x9 square with same offsets front and rear.

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You might also consider going with Nitto NT01's instead of the R888's. I believe that the NT01's have big tread blocks and may handle better and more consistently than the R888's. Also, the NT01 tread depth is 6/32" so you should be able to run them full tread and not worry about shaving them or having any of the tread chunking off. The NT01's probably wouldn't be very good in the rain though vs full tread R888's or RA1's though. For rotation, are your front and rear tires and wheel widths and offsets the same? If they're the same, then you should be able to just rotate front to rear. - Jim

 

Correct, running 17x9 square with same offsets front and rear.

 

So if the wheels and tires are exactly the same, then you should be fine rotating from front to rear. The only tricky thing (at least to me) would be if you decide to rotate them after the tires are warm/hot. If the tires are completely cold, then you'll know what your usual cold pressures are, but once the tires are warm/hot, then it may be tougher to get the pressures right. - Jim

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