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What Brake Pad for w2w


00integravtecgsr

Which front brake pad do you use?  

15 members have voted

  1. 1. Which front brake pad do you use?

    • Other
      1
    • Cobalt XR2
      2
    • Cobalt XR1
      0
    • Hawk DTC 60
      3
    • Hawk DTC 70
      2
    • Carbotech XP10
      1
    • Carbotech XP12
      6
    • PFC 01
      0
    • PFC 06
      0


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00integravtecgsr

Question for all front engine w2w racers ONLY (not interested in TT or HPDE).

 

What is the most liked brake pad for the front brakes on a front engine car?

 

I'm currently running Carbotech XP12 with my StopTech's with no brake ducting. Car weights >2500lbs. I'm wanting to try a different pad, but so many options and the price varies. I'm just thinking the XP12 isn't the right setup. I know I should still have some brake ducting, but I have heard of some who don't need it with such a light car and BBK.

 

If you don't mind, could you list your favorite pad, your car's weight and if you have brake ducting.

 

If you choose other, please list what pad if you don't mind.

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I actually run two different pads between the front and rear.

 

Xp10's on the front, and XP12s on the rear. It gives the car a more balance breaking bias. The car is 2500 with a 47/53 F/R ratio and I do have cooling ducts.

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Lucid Moments

Its too complicated a question for a single answer. I am going to echo what two others have said.

 

get ducting... then see if you need to swap compounds

 

And

 

I actually run two different pads between the front and rear.

 

Xp10's on the front, and XP12s on the rear. It gives the car a more balance breaking bias. The car is 2500 with a 47/53 F/R ratio and I do have cooling ducts.

 

I put them in that order for a reason too. Get ducting. It will keep your brakes cooler and that is almost always better. If you get below the operating temperature of your current brakes (unlikely but possible) then it allows to to run a less agressive, less expensive pad so your rotors, calipers, fluid etc will last longer. Cooler is better.

 

Once you have that sorted out then you start picking your pads to control your bias. I have always run different pads front and rear. If you are running the same pads then you are most likely not braking at your most effective.

 

All of that being said I have been very happy with the Hawk products. I was running the DTC 60's on my racecar front and the Hawk HP+ (yes the street pad) on the rears. This was on a car weighing in about 2400 lbs FWD.

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00integravtecgsr

I guess I should have noted, that I am using the XP12 on the front and trying different rears. I tried Hawk HP+ & Carbotech XP10 which are on their now. I think the XP10 seem to work a little better on the rear with XP12.

 

I'm not really overheating or running into heat issues with the front pads. I think it might just been too much pad for the big front brakes with the Toyo RA1. Every once in a while I will engage ABS.

 

I feel that I'm using the full potential of the brake setup with the current pads.

 

Just wanted to know what others are running and their thoughts on pads they've run.

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robbodleimages

ive been running carbotech xp20 all year on the mustang. danny just had me change to the xp24. just something to consider

 

ive run the pfc 06 and loved it. ive run and liked cobalt. ive gotten my best results on carbotech. I have a somewhat lighter car than my competition and my advantage all season has been the braking zones. so...food for thought

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Depends on the system. I could see some of these more modern systems overthinking things especially with stuff like ice mode, and really old systems being too slow at modulation, but maybe middle of the road being better than the sack of meat in the seat handling things. Then there's motorsports systems which are a whole nother ball of wax.

 

My case in point - 10a braking point between the two track cars I've got alot of time in.

1991 MR2 heavier car, same power, similar top end speed +/- mph or three, brake beyond 100 board (90ish?). Factory abs, rotors, etc, XP8 pads, Toyo RA1s or Kumho V710s same point. ABS new enough to have fast modulation, not new enough that it won't let you rotate the car or overthink stuff and hit ice mode or any of that negative crap.

 

1994 MR2 lighter car by 100ish lbs, same power, similar top end speed, brake right at or just before 100 board. Only difference no ABS and Hoosier Rs...

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robbodleimages

I try very hard not to engage my hated ford racing abs. I almost always blow the corner entry when mine comes on. its better just to brake properly. the advantage in my view is avoiding the lock up and the ruined tires or crash that results from it.

 

maybe I just don't use it right

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For most production car ABS units, threshold braking to the point just before ABS kicks in will slow you down faster than allowing ABS to engage.

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00integravtecgsr
For most production car ABS units, threshold braking to the point just before ABS kicks in will slow you down faster than allowing ABS to engage.

 

This is correct. ABS is only saving the tires and allowing you to control the car without locking the tires up and going straight off.

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