ja1217 Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 I'll throw my vote for Ohlins R&T coilovers, simply because I already have them That said, they are more expensive, best price I've seen is $3100, and I think they are also 8 point coilovers because I think they fail the 40mm rule and the front struts are inverted. Still not sure if I've measured the correct area for that or not. They do come with camber plates though, which the KW's don't. And they are much nicer on the road, not that it matters for a race car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emmanuel B. Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 Not to veer to far off from the Suspension discussion, but 2885 vs. 2650 is huge! http://nasaforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=110318&start=300#p476306 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hhdinyuma Posted January 16, 2014 Author Share Posted January 16, 2014 2885 lb. is going to be a real challenge to meet. I was at 2828 lb. this weekend after 5 laps on a full tank. I will have to add ballast for sure since I have a lightweight seat, CF driveshaft, and lightweight clutch and flywheel (to be installed). Probably put the stock exhaust back on and see what happens on the Dyno first though. For PT/SPEC86, adding a cage and other safety gear will be a big help. Way better than any *'s though IMHO! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ja1217 Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 Not to veer to far off from the Suspension discussion, but 2885 vs. 2650 is huge!http://nasaforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=110318&start=300#p476306 Yeah, I had a bunch of lightweight stuff planned for this year (battery, flywheel, and driveshaft). Guess I get to save some money instead! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sterling Doc Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 Nah, you're just going to spend a little more money on lead and corner balancing. It is still in your best interest to get the car as light as possible, and then put the weight low in the passenger rear area of the car. Doing this with the 944 Spec, I could get each corner well within 20 lbs, with me in it. The base car was well under 2,300lbs dry. A perfectly square car, with ballast mounted low, makes for dreamy handling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hhdinyuma Posted January 16, 2014 Author Share Posted January 16, 2014 It is still in your best interest to get the car as light as possible, and then put the weight low in the passenger rear area of the car. That is what I am planning. I can't wait to try corner balancing with a light car using only weight since I still don't have coil overs. I am going to get the lightweight AST clutch/flywheel bolted in this weekend and I just ordered a 17 lb. driver's seat as well. Already have a CF driveshaft and using only a harness bar for now, should be pretty light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
National Staff Greg G. Posted January 17, 2014 National Staff Share Posted January 17, 2014 You can always use points to get the weight back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hhdinyuma Posted January 17, 2014 Author Share Posted January 17, 2014 Ha...You must be reading my mind!! Spent most of the day with the calculator instead of working Got it down to 235mm RR's and put my front pipe back on would let me stay at my current weight, Or add 20 Lb. and use 225mm A6's...Yeah, that's probably better . Biggest problem at the moment is how to use the 3 sets of 245mm A'6's I have left. Looks like some lead in my future for CVR!! (Or just give a 5 second time penalty to anyone named Schotz and I'll run TTC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
National Staff Greg G. Posted January 17, 2014 National Staff Share Posted January 17, 2014 Not anyone, just one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Paisan Posted July 18, 2014 Members Share Posted July 18, 2014 Subscribed... I've started to run my BRZ in TTD here in NE for this season and see how things pan out. Testing a lot of precautionary items on this car. I've been road racing subies since 2001 and want as much engine protection as I can get since I'm not a high roller! -mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lutfy Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 I am interested to see this develop, but don't yet have a lot to add. I've run my BRZ once, in TTE on 215 300 treadware summer tires with a muffler delete. It was great fun, and fantastic in the wet. I am looking at coilover options, and an E85 tune, and some R comps. Peeps, bringing this thread from the dead. I have asked National director earlier for confirmation then stumbled upon this thread (Sorry Greg is this is redundant/bouncing ideas as I have a clean slate). I am returning back to Nasa TT after a few years off. Here are my questions (understand the rules as a prior competitor). Per Sterling Doc's post above, it appears the BRZ ran in TTE. Currently its classed in TTD. I want to do a dyno reclass (stock motor only made 164whp per p/o). I would like to stick with 16.5 whp/weight after adjustments to be in TTE vs spending countless money on power upgrades and adjust. My question: TTE base tire: 235. I will run 225 = -1. Plus 10 for Hoosier = 9. Plus remote reservoir MCS shocks and springs +10 = 19 for TTE base class. Then 2960 weight w driver / 164 hp = 18.04 -.3 for weight plus .8 for 245 and under tire = 18.54 which is past 16.5 for TTE. This leaves some room for gutting the car further if needed and/or adding header/tune to get closer to 16.5. There will be no ballast as I intend to keep the car interior stock except for rollbar/seats/harnesses for now. Hoping my naiveness is correct. If the car MUST stay in TTD and then adjust for, it creates a diff chapter and want to get input from the seasoned pros Intend to run this car at Watkins Glen this coming weekend with DTC 60, camber bolts and Azenis+ (new 200 compound) on stock wheels (215 tires) to see how it does. Thanks in advance. Lutfy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
National Staff Greg G. Posted April 24, 2017 National Staff Share Posted April 24, 2017 I am interested to see this develop, but don't yet have a lot to add. I've run my BRZ once, in TTE on 215 300 treadware summer tires with a muffler delete. It was great fun, and fantastic in the wet. I am looking at coilover options, and an E85 tune, and some R comps. Peeps, bringing this thread from the dead. I have asked National director earlier for confirmation then stumbled upon this thread (Sorry Greg is this is redundant/bouncing ideas as I have a clean slate). I am returning back to Nasa TT after a few years off. Here are my questions (understand the rules as a prior competitor). Per Sterling Doc's post above, it appears the BRZ ran in TTE. Currently its classed in TTD. I want to do a dyno reclass (stock motor only made 164whp per p/o). I would like to stick with 16.5 whp/weight after adjustments to be in TTE vs spending countless money on power upgrades and adjust. My question: TTE base tire: 235. I will run 225 = -1. Plus 10 for Hoosier = 9. Plus remote reservoir MCS shocks and springs +10 = 19 for TTE base class. Then 2960 weight w driver / 164 hp = 18.04 -.3 for weight plus .8 for 245 and under tire = 18.54 which is past 16.5 for TTE. This leaves some room for gutting the car further if needed and/or adding header/tune to get closer to 16.5. There will be no ballast as I intend to keep the car interior stock except for rollbar/seats/harnesses for now. Hoping my naiveness is correct. If the car MUST stay in TTD and then adjust for, it creates a diff chapter and want to get input from the seasoned pros Intend to run this car at Watkins Glen this coming weekend with DTC 60, camber bolts and Azenis+ (new 200 compound) on stock wheels (215 tires) to see how it does. Thanks in advance. Lutfy Hi, these cars are not offered Dyno re-classing to compete in PTE/TTE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sterling Doc Posted April 24, 2017 Share Posted April 24, 2017 The cars have been re-classed since I ran mine. My BRZ has since been sold, and whole 'nother race car has been built, run for 3 years, and parted out since - this is old! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Paisan Posted April 25, 2017 Members Share Posted April 25, 2017 These cars fall into TT4 now IIRC. In TT4 you will need to get the weight down to an unreasonably low level or bump your power into FI territory unfortunately they aren't viable to W2W race in NASA in NA format. -mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboShortBus Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 These cars fall into TT4 now IIRC. Say what? From the 2017 TT rules, version 14.1: Scion FR-S Coupe ('13-'16) TTD 2940 Subaru BRZ Coupe ('13-'16) TTD 2940 Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Paisan Posted May 3, 2017 Members Share Posted May 3, 2017 These cars fall into TT4 now IIRC. Say what? From the 2017 TT rules, version 14.1: Scion FR-S Coupe ('13-'16) TTD 2940 Subaru BRZ Coupe ('13-'16) TTD 2940 Mark Yeah but as soon as you put any mods on them they will go right to TT4. So yeah they start in TTD but trying to stay there is ridiculously hard for anything but a base model car. My factory spoiler puts me up 4 points right off the bat. -mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboShortBus Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 These cars fall into TT4 now IIRC. Say what? From the 2017 TT rules, version 14.1: Scion FR-S Coupe ('13-'16) TTD 2940 Subaru BRZ Coupe ('13-'16) TTD 2940 Mark Yeah but as soon as you put any mods on them they will go right to TT4. So yeah they start in TTD but trying to stay there is ridiculously hard for anything but a base model car. My factory spoiler puts me up 4 points right off the bat. -mike You might be overdoing it with "speed parts," as I'm not sure which 40+ points of modifications you're making to a TTD car to blast it out of TTC and into TT4 (crazy). It seems that you might want to skip many of them and just pick the ones that make a significant performance difference in order to minimize upclassing. 225 R7s (biggest improvement), full exhaust (maybe it helps, maybe not), springs/shocks/swaybars (helpful), removal of any non-BTM aero, and all of the "no-points modifications" that you can manage (while not exceeding the 14.25:1 weight:power ratio) will only be +18 and keep you in TTD with 1 point to spare. Mix/match as you see fit. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Paisan Posted May 7, 2017 Members Share Posted May 7, 2017 Yeah it's a street car so I'm not removing the spoiler that came with it. Spoiler and rear arms to fix camber take up 8 points which is ridiculous. It is what it is im not racing it this season anyway so no big deal. In order to eliminate all the BS points you would go to TT4 but then you need e85 or FI to get anywhere near the p/w ratio needed to be at the top of the class. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboShortBus Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 To clarify this, and to avoid scaring off any potential PT/TT competitors with one of these cars, it is possible, and quite easy, to compete and be competitive in a class as "low" as PTD/TTD with sensible, carefully-chosen modifications to an FR-S/BRZ. These cars do not just end up in ST4/TT4 with a few modifications; you would have to go nuts with modification points, power increases, or weight reduction to bump up to that high of a class. For example, Emmanuel Baako's car was classed in TTD in 2016 with +19 points and pretty much the same modifications that I listed a few posts above. Other drivers with different modifications to their FR-Ss/BRZs have successfully competed in TTD down here (although one of them was on A6s back when that compound was only +13). Before anybody spends money and points on "speed parts" (many of which end up being "snake oil"), I strongly recommend that he/she should determine if those points are "worth it." Note that the very general rule of thumb is that there are approximately 2 seconds between each PT/TT class level; so, with 20 points between each level, each point spent should be worth about 1/10 of a second. Will "fixing" rear camber be worth 0.4 second per lap? Or, is a driver better off going from a +6 tire compound to a +10? Or, could a driver focus on driving it harder into the brake zones (even if he/she just focuses on a couple of them each lap) for +0? If a driver spent +3 on dampers, did he/she buy good ones, or some cheap junk from eBay? Do those +2 springs result in the desired wheel rates, or did he/she just buy generic "sport lowering springs" and call it a day? Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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