hufflepuff Posted December 15, 2013 Posted December 15, 2013 So i was looking at section E.9 that allows camber adjustment allowance for plates, shims, slots, eccentric bushings & bolts without point assessment. Then under Appendix A they list for S2000 and similar cars, you must take +2 assessment for using a simple upper control arm with slots for the balljoint (at least this is my interpretation). This is functionally equivalent in that it provides simple camber adjustment. Why the +2 assessment, since the arm provides no other performance advantage? Sounds unfair that everyone else gets a simple camber adjustment method, but SLA suspension cars get penalized. Quote
TurboShortBus Posted December 15, 2013 Posted December 15, 2013 For the Skunk2 parts that you are proposing, you would take +4 per E9 and +2 per E18, for a total of +6. Do a forum search for picking frogs and living with warts. 350Zs are not immune to this either, so you aren't alone. The S2000 ball joint topic may have been beaten to death in 2009: http://nasaforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=28735 and http://nasaforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=28840 Mark Quote
AZELISE Posted December 15, 2013 Posted December 15, 2013 Can you slot the stock arm where it attaches to the two eye bolts? I get between -2.5 and -3 degrees with stock arms and that is just right for me. Quote
TurboShortBus Posted December 15, 2013 Posted December 15, 2013 Can you slot the stock arm where it attaches to the two eye bolts? Be careful, as this sounds a bit like "modifying" the arm, which could also cost +4 per E9. Mark Quote
AZELISE Posted December 15, 2013 Posted December 15, 2013 Be careful, as this sounds a bit like "modifying" the arm, which could also cost +4 per E9. Mark I was thinking the same thing. I cants figure out what can be slotted without taking points. Yea, I'm going to leave that typo in there. Quote
kbrew8991 Posted December 15, 2013 Posted December 15, 2013 Offset bushings, or get an arm that's worth the additional assessment Quote
hufflepuff Posted December 15, 2013 Author Posted December 15, 2013 (edited) Retracted. Edited December 15, 2013 by Guest Quote
TurboShortBus Posted December 15, 2013 Posted December 15, 2013 Oh boy, here we go...something about not learning history and being doomed to repeat it... Contact TT National Director and Slytherin member Greg Greenbaum at [email protected]. Mark EDIT: See my comment below about your retraction. Quote
hufflepuff Posted December 15, 2013 Author Posted December 15, 2013 Those control arms that i've been running for a few years would bump me unexpectedly into TTD. To save others time, it looks like installing an adjustable ball joint in the OEM control arm is +2: Adjustable eccentric bushing with the factory control arm are points free: Here was a more in depth discussion. http://www.nasaforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=32207 I think it's a rule intended to penalize fast S2000s and now affects others, but i don't want to risk a DQ even if there's no competitive advantage. Quote
hufflepuff Posted December 15, 2013 Author Posted December 15, 2013 Offset bushings, or get an arm that's worth the additional assessment Do you know of any for 90's hondas? Most of the offset bushings are adjustable, and someone said they are known to fail? Quote
TurboShortBus Posted December 15, 2013 Posted December 15, 2013 Retracted. Last edited by hufflepuff on Sun Dec 15, 2013 5:16 pm, edited 1 time in total. Yeah, nice retraction. Your post was something along the lines of, "I'm new here. Who do I contact to get this rule changed?" That's a recipe for failure. Mark Quote
hufflepuff Posted December 15, 2013 Author Posted December 15, 2013 Retracted. Last edited by hufflepuff on Sun Dec 15, 2013 5:16 pm, edited 1 time in total. Yeah, nice retraction. Your post was something along the lines of, "I'm new here. Who do I contact to get this rule changed?" That's a recipe for failure. Mark I was just very shocked and disappointing by the rules, but i'm planning my setup to abide by the book. Quote
ILIKETODRIVE Posted December 16, 2013 Posted December 16, 2013 I think it's a rule intended to penalize fast S2000s and now affects others, but i don't want to risk a DQ even if there's no competitive advantage. Not exactly. Welcome to 2009 when every non-Crapherson Honda has to take a boatload of points for camber adjustment. My car is classed at the very top of PTE. If I simply add camber adjustment all-around and spherical bearings, I'm more than halfway into PTD with only the real benefit being better/even tire wear and not having to do an alignment after each race weekend. Quote
kbrew8991 Posted December 16, 2013 Posted December 16, 2013 Every car running out there has warts they have to deal with. Welcome to any ruleset ever constructed, this one at least has a good amount of choice. Quote
National Staff Greg G. Posted December 16, 2013 National Staff Posted December 16, 2013 Retracted. Last edited by hufflepuff on Sun Dec 15, 2013 5:16 pm, edited 1 time in total. Yeah, nice retraction. Your post was something along the lines of, "I'm new here. Who do I contact to get this rule changed?" That's a recipe for failure. Mark I was just very shocked and disappointing by the rules, but i'm planning my setup to abide by the book. The correct way to go into competition is to read the rules, and then build the optimum vehicle for the rules. Most of us cannot afford that, which is why we have the rules setup so there are a lot of different choices and variables. It is pretty rare to find a car that someone built to play with in HPDE without any regard to the rules that they may actually need to follow later, that doesn't have mods that are "not worth" the points that they are assessed. This is because the points that are assessed for various mods are based on the best case scenario for what that modification can do for a vehicle (and not necessarily your vehicle, but any vehicle). So, you will find, as you have, that if you want to rebuild your car to be a top dog, it will take a bit of massaging. Enjoy your massage. Quote
ScottBell Posted December 28, 2013 Posted December 28, 2013 My car is classed at the very top of PTE. If I simply add camber adjustment all-around and spherical bearings, I'm more than halfway into PTD with only the real benefit being better/even tire wear and not having to do an alignment after each race weekend. On a double A arm Honda big negative camber and proper sphericals do a LOT more than just decrease tire wear. Quote
ILIKETODRIVE Posted December 30, 2013 Posted December 30, 2013 On a double A arm Honda big negative camber and proper sphericals do a LOT more than just decrease tire wear. Agreed. BUT I don't see it being worth the +7 or more points that would be needed. I could run a 225 A6 over a 205 SM6 and pick up even more time. Quote
ScottBell Posted December 31, 2013 Posted December 31, 2013 On a double A arm Honda big negative camber and proper sphericals do a LOT more than just decrease tire wear. Agreed. BUT I don't see it being worth the +7 or more points that would be needed. I could run a 225 A6 over a 205 SM6 and pick up even more time. I forget that I gave up and just slammed the front of my car to fix the camber. My guess is, and some agree with me, that rule is to slightly penalize double A arm cars. We seem to have a pretty well balanced rule set and changing that now would throw a wrench in the works. Spherical bearing are so worth the points that I run stock sway bars so I can have them. edit: FYI for speeding points, I have a lot of data that tells me that I'm not any faster on a 225 tire vs a 205 tire in the same compound when they are on a 7 inch rim. Quote
Arca_ex Posted December 31, 2013 Posted December 31, 2013 edit: FYI for speeding points, I have a lot of data that tells me that I'm not any faster on a 225 tire vs a 205 tire in the same compound when they are on a 7 inch rim. There's your problem lol. Quote
ScottBell Posted December 31, 2013 Posted December 31, 2013 edit: FYI for speeding points, I have a lot of data that tells me that I'm not any faster on a 225 tire vs a 205 tire in the same compound when they are on a 7 inch rim. There's your problem lol. Cant get the right offset on a 8 inch rim without hitting the suspension upright. Quote
ILIKETODRIVE Posted December 31, 2013 Posted December 31, 2013 A6 and SM6 are completely different compounds. What car? I've run 15x8 +36 without touching a thing (949 Racing wheels; 1994 Integra). Quote
Arca_ex Posted December 31, 2013 Posted December 31, 2013 edit: FYI for speeding points, I have a lot of data that tells me that I'm not any faster on a 225 tire vs a 205 tire in the same compound when they are on a 7 inch rim. There's your problem lol. Cant get the right offset on a 8 inch rim without hitting the suspension upright. That sucks. If we are both talking about 15" wheels the best size for a 225/45 Hoosier would actually be a 15x9" anyways, so you can see how running it on a 7" wheel isn't really a fair comparison. Quote
AZELISE Posted December 31, 2013 Posted December 31, 2013 How about a 7.5" wheel? And I notice they removed the simple slots from the 2014 rules. Quote
ScottBell Posted December 31, 2013 Posted December 31, 2013 A6 and SM6 are completely different compounds. What car? I've run 15x8 +36 without touching a thing (949 Racing wheels; 1994 Integra). That offset messes up the scrub radius. I can't stand the feel of the car. Quote
ILIKETODRIVE Posted December 31, 2013 Posted December 31, 2013 A6 and SM6 are completely different compounds. What car? I've run 15x8 +36 without touching a thing (949 Racing wheels; 1994 Integra). That offset messes up the scrub radius. I can't stand the feel of the car. Ok...that's your opinion and that's fine. I 100% prefer 15x8 +36 949s to my 15x7 +43 Volk TE37s. Actually 110%. Why? Width. I know the older 949 Racing 6UL wheels are 15x8 +40. Those didn't touch anything on my car when a friend borrowed it and swapped his wheels onto it...well the tires rubbed the body in the rear but that was because he had 225 Hoosiers and I had not yet rolled the body work lol. Quote
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