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Crx upgrade front brakes


ELO168

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  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
gsr rotors and calipers with hawk dtc60 pads up front are more then enough

...assuming you're running the car under 2300 lb

 

When I ran my CRX with a B18C5 at 2500 lb, I'd say the ITR 11" setup was an absolute minimum. I tried various Wilwood seups through the years. If it were me doing it again, I'd use ITR calipers for a budget setup or Fastbrakes/Wilwood for a mid-to-high-range setup.

 

Any DC2/EG/EK caliper will require a front knuckle change. It'll be the same knuckle change for the GSR, ITR, Legend, or Spoon setup. You can either use a 90-91 EF Sedan EX model or any DC2/EG/EK knuckle.

 

Or, get these adapters: http://www.fastbrakes.com/product_p/-civic-11-front-rotor-kit.htm

And you can use OEM DC2/EG/EK calipers without having to change knuckles.

 

So you've got 3 options, any will work. If you want more insight, contact us and we can help you out.

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/\ Agreed but I would push that weight limit up around 2400lb. That's where my car runs in TTE/PTE trim with a maximum of 142whp. I've used a variety of pads from XP-10s to XP-12s to unknown JDM hawtness race pads to Hawk Blues with no braking issues. (GSR clappers and Power Slot rotors)

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/\ Agreed but I would push that weight limit up around 2400lb. That's where my car runs in TTE/PTE trim with a maximum of 142whp. I've used a variety of pads from XP-10s to XP-12s to unknown JDM hawtness race pads to Hawk Blues with no braking issues. (GSR clappers and Power Slot rotors)

2400 lb with 142 hp is H3 or H4 power to weight, I'm not surprised that works for you. However, all H2 cars have way more than that, leading to much more energy going into the braking zone. At 2400 lb, you're looking at a B18C1 or B16B engine, which are 175-195 whp depending on the build.

 

Therefore I will hold my 2300 lb comment

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ha my TTF car weighed 2630 with me in it and had no issues stopping with gsr/ls rotors and calipers with dtc60 pads, never had brake faid also, i guess its all in the driver

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you can use da calipers on ef knuckels, you would never want to run eg/dc/ek knuckels on a ef, you would get 4-5 degrees more positive camber, -3 degrees of caster more which is not good, and lose 3/4" suspension travel up front

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ha my TTF car weighed 2630 with me in it and had no issues stopping with gsr/ls rotors and calipers with dtc60 pads, never had brake faid also, i guess its all in the driver

Watch your confidence buck-o. I think I know how to drive. Also, as a TT car, you guys only have to do 1 lap, we have 45 minutes of hard racing, your experiences are not exactly equivalent.

 

Your TTF car also probably had half the power as we have. Again, the guy is asking about H2 setups, and I stick with my answers. If you can come beat my H2 car with smaller brakes than what I'm recommending above 2300 lb, I'll pay you $100. I'd love to see it.

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hey buddy just do da gsr rotors and calipers with hawk dtc60 pads and cheap advanced rotors= cheap/easy/ and more then enough braking

Baker you seen what i did at nationals as a rookie in H2, rotating mass is crucial for low horsepower cars

maybe one day i will drill out some gsr rotors to 5 lug and slap gsr calipers with dtc60 pads on my ITR to show it can be done, just have to be smooth, and i have no abs

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I'm with Rob on this one, the smallest setup will benefit acceleration. The first season with the h22 I still had the 10.1" rotors, that was part of why the car was so quick in the straights even if it was a small part. After experiencing some fade and short rotor life I have decided that I prefer the larger 11" setup for myself. The smaller setup can work but it was marginal with 200hp and 2600lbs, and I didn't want to manage the brakes.

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