McMahonRacing Posted June 27, 2014 Share Posted June 27, 2014 Guys, thanks for the motor info. in the previous posts ....... now onto the rear end: Presently: FFR Cobra 2740 lbs, 297whp/277wtq FMS 8.8 59.25" Fox width Wilwood 4 piston Dynalite w/ 12.88" 2 pc. rotors 9" end conversion w/ Moser axels Getting very tired of replacing bearings, was about once/yr. doing the club TT stuff, now w/ the racing stuff it is turning into nearly every event ( specifically the right side, bearing seems good but pushing fluid ), by chance I also corded that tire at Thompson and the pads are just slightly more worn on that side as well. I suspect for the moment that the Trac-Lok needs a refresh so I am doing that now but, I find it hard to believe that is causing the bearing leakage issue. First any thoughts on current issue? Any thoughts on going to a full floater -- 8.8 or 9 ? -- who's kit did you use ? Much Thanks Pat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olaaf Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 do you mean diff fluid is leaking past the axle seal? i've melted those seals before.. i added a diff cooler and didn't have that problem again.. is your axle vent clogged? leaking past the vent by any chance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McMahonRacing Posted June 30, 2014 Author Share Posted June 30, 2014 Have a -6an tapped into the diff cover, routed up to a catch can w/ a good size breather, the stock tube location is blocked. Yes, diff fluid leaking past the axel seal onto the brakes .... not a great thing. Wouldn't bother me so much already on my 3rd just this year and on one tube ... the other side of the car has been just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McMahonRacing Posted June 30, 2014 Author Share Posted June 30, 2014 Have a -6an tapped into the diff cover, routed up to a catch can w/ a good size breather, the stock tube location is blocked. Yes, diff fluid leaking past the axel seal onto the brakes .... not a great thing. Wouldn't bother me so much already on my 3rd just this year and on one tube ... the other side of the car has been just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olaaf Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 what gear ratio? The higher the ratio, the more heat produced. what is your redline RPM? are you pushing that now more often? running sticky tires now? Maybe try putting an IR gun the the axle housing after a hard run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McMahonRacing Posted June 30, 2014 Author Share Posted June 30, 2014 Moved from 3.27 to 3.08 over the winter .... actually dropped the rpm limit was 6300 w/ 3.27, dropped to 6000 w/ 3.08 -- intention was to get the motor to last as it is not a great one ..... can try the heat gun & will at LRP this weekend ..... what bugs me is this wasn't an issue last season & the LR bearing was swapped out at the same time and hasn't been an issue to date ..... just seems strange and I kinda always wanted a floater .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99cobra2881 Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 Are you overfilling the diff? Too much fluid will aerate and temps will go up. I realize this is a solid axle but I know on the IRS it has specific instructions to fill to 3/16" below the fill hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thonczarenko Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 Maybe the backlash on the pinion gear is too tight and causing heat issues? I'd definitely get a diff cooler either way, like Olaaf recommended. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McMahonRacing Posted July 1, 2014 Author Share Posted July 1, 2014 (edited) Will know more when I get some temps this weekend, if it isn't a complete rain event .... however, the turns this time around are mostly right only one left so it might not tell me much ..... Fluid level is at 2.25 qts., just below threads on housing front plug & just weeping out of rear plug on the alum. rear cover/girdle ... Backlash is good, nothing is tight, we usually run toward the loose side to free it up a bit .... Cooler, I would agree w/ it except that none of the FFR's that I know of run one, nor did they on the 25hr car as far as I know, most are actually running the stock c - clip as well, maybe the temps from the w/e will tell us something ..... Really beginning to wonder if the housing isn't bent, did check it in a vertical plane ( camber ) and it was good side to side but couldn't measure it horiz. w/o a fixture and some extra hands I don't have right now ....... Edited July 1, 2014 by Guest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNAKBITN Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 I only run 2 qts of fluild and have never had any issues with the rearend.I don't really think a diff cooler is needed for sprint races. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Ed M. Posted July 1, 2014 Members Share Posted July 1, 2014 Have you checked to make sure the axle on the side that's giving you trouble isn't bent...? Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McMahonRacing Posted July 1, 2014 Author Share Posted July 1, 2014 I did get this far: Really beginning to wonder if the housing isn't bent, did check it in a vertical plane ( camber ) and it was good side to side but couldn't measure it horiz. w/o a fixture and some extra hands I don't have right now ....... Should have some time after LimeRock, if it is an issue again it will come out and get a real good once over ..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nape Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 You can check it with toe plates as a quick and dirty, but it could still be out of square. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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