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Crx 2'nd gen suspension


ELO168

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...

are you using the koni yellow RACE shocks cause they are 1" shorter in the front and 5/8" shorter in the rear then the regular koni yellows, ground control has the threaded sleeves that go over the koni yellows making it like a shock with a threaded body

the koni race should be short enough where the control arm will hit the chassis before the shock bottoms out, so a shorter shock will not help you, plus you need atleast 1.5" of shock travel or more when the car is on the ground-bottoming out the control arm

also are you using the ground control top hats that give you more shock travel

i had a EF with the koni race shocks on the front with 6" springs and stock top hats and that was enough

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  • 3 weeks later...
are you using the koni yellow RACE shocks cause they are 1" shorter in the front and 5/8" shorter in the rear then the regular koni yellows, ground control has the threaded sleeves that go over the koni yellows making it like a shock with a threaded body

the koni race should be short enough where the control arm will hit the chassis before the shock bottoms out, so a shorter shock will not help you, plus you need atleast 1.5" of shock travel or more when the car is on the ground-bottoming out the control arm

also are you using the ground control top hats that give you more shock travel

i had a EF with the koni race shocks on the front with 6" springs and stock top hats and that was enough

I had a similar setup to robpkz...Koni Race shocks, GC sleeves, 700f/1000r 6" springs (IIRC), and the GC extended top hats. It didn't bottom out, I even did the zip-tie test to verify. It was a decent setup for the time, before running the better shocks became the norm.

 

Koni can provide a better shock than the Koni Race (8041) variant. Or you can contact JRI, JRZ, etc, and see what they can do for you. Long story short, you've definitely got options, just call around, get quotes, and let us know how it goes!

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