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Tire rules in TT123 - Any interest in expansion?


troyguitar

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Help me out here, I'm obviously not very smart.

 

Your earlier comments that "it isn't about cost" and your later post alluding to the fact that you'd like to feel like you're driving in the rain while everyone else is in the dry (I never said it took less skill to drive a street tire I said I didn't take much to drive a king HP straight-away car, which is what you are talking about building) left me thinking that this thread was only going to end one way so, you're correct, I attempted to stop posting in it. However after seeing the latest posts I again attempted to get you to stop and read this thread again to perhaps see some of the reasons that you keep saying no one has given. I give up. Good luck to ya....see ya on track.

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What's one more category of tires? No one has answered this, presumably because there is no answer to it.

 

Although I like NT01s and 100 tread wear tires, they simply do not belong in the formula that involves ST1-3 and TT1-3. As YOU and Ben pointed out in your math, to make an NT01 shod car competitive with a Hoosier R6/A6, you have to give it hundreds of horsepower that is only good in the straights. What that will create is a damn traffic jam at every corner as the straight line wonders brake long and lean and tiptoe through the apex. The soft tired cars will stack up behind, or worse budge the slower cars out of the way, only to have the straight line wonders pass them halfway down the straight only to do it all over again at the next corner.

 

What I just described has happened to me and it will happen in a race. What you don't realize is how badly that scenario is going to play out in TT. You will have to gap the street tired car so much more in order to not affect your flying laps it will be ridiculous.

 

I HAVE driven 450hp racecar and street cars on 100 and 200 tread wear tires. It is ridiculous work at 10/10ths well into a race.

 

I am also calling BS on it being cheaper. I used to go through NT01s and A6s like water until I set up the car properly. Do that and the tires will last longer.

 

Troy, You are still going through the sticker shock of ST1-3/TT1-3 that the rest of us went through two years ago. We already spent the $10-20k to make our cars competitive in the open budget U-3 classes. All of us are telling you, from experience, that the formula to make a 100 tread wear tire competitive against a Hoosier will detrimentally affect the racing in U-3.

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Right, and you cannot directly import the PT tire points to the ST/TT mod factor system.

Using your numbers, a 3200lb ST1 car could have ~710hp with R6s and ~580hp with A6s.

In case it isn't clear, that result is ridiculous.

 

That might make sense for a MPSC, R888, NT01, Trofeo or the like, but not a similar DOT near slick tire.

 

 

I don't see why there would be an objection to expanding the rules to get more people into TT.

The rulings shouldn't matter as long as they are fair. No penalty for slicks is not fair, and puts competitors at more risk trying to set fast laps on slicks in short sessions.

 

slicks -> DOT slicks -> R Compounds -> Street tires

 

Why not give people choices on how to build their cars? Let's say 50-70 hp (guess) per compound level pending class. That would make things interesting for sure.

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