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1992 Civic Cx (K24, Autocross, Trackday, SMF) 100% Turn Key


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10/4 Trades I'm interested in:


06+ R6 (NO R6s)

07+ CBR 600RR

04+ Gsxr 600/750


If it's been lowered, stretched, repainted, crashed, or heavily modified (beyond gears,exhaust, PC and suspension parts) I'm not interested. Looking for a clean title bike with original plastics and less than 15k miles.


I'm primarily interested in bikes in the $4-5k price range, $6k is over budget. I've found plenty of solid bikes in that 4-5k price range, but can stretch a little for something especially nice. Anything 2010+ worth buying is probably out of my price range.


Any trades would be the fair market value of the motorcycle, with cash equaling my asking price for the car (varies depending on if you want/don't want certain parts). Trading doesn't mean your bike is worth any more or my car, any less, just trying to streamline the process those who might have what I want, and want what I have.



PRICE DROP $8500 No extras (No race seat, race wheels or spares)




Willing to work with buyer pulling parts off the car to lower the price.








































My initial goal was to build an autocross (SMF), track day and eventual NASA TT car that would be quick, reliable and street driven to events. The car never saw a track, I focused on autocross.


I purchased it in 2010 with the K swap. There were small details that had been overlooked/not done to my standards, but the swap was done with high quality parts, and it was a clean, straight chassis with a healthy drivetrain.


I kept the car basically as it was until mid-2013 when I totally rebuilt it; almost all of the things listed below have been done since the summer of 2013.


Every part listed was purchased new, unless noted otherwise. I tried to make the list all inclusive of the aftermarket parts but there’s also a ton of small OEM replacement stuff not mentioned. Every wear part on the car has, at most a thousand street miles and a season of autocross, most are a lot newer.


Where the car is at now it makes a fast and super reliable, local autox/trackday car (Will probably want a full size radiator for summer track days), but it’s a great base for a 100% SMF build (Built motor, baller shocks,aero ect).


Good driver, a set of 275's and a little development will make it a real competitor in SMF. You could also put the AC and radio back in and have a true street car.


Curb Weight = ~2070 lbs (SMF Minimum is 2050 with 2.4L)

Power = 231whp/192wtq on 93

Asking Price = $11,000







2007 K24A2 – Purchased from South Florida Auto Salvage with 42k miles on 12/27/2013. Looked at a 7-8 motors, this was the only one with perfect leak down numbers. Literally came out of a grandma’s automatic TSX.

50* VTC Gear

4-2-1 Hytech Replica Header

RBC Intake Manifold

P2R Heatshield Manifold Gasket

B Series Throttle body conversion (No more K-series TPS issues)

Skunk2 B2k TB Adapter

Skunk2 70mm TB (TB flange and adapter are port matched to 70mm)

3.5’’ Intake /w Velocity Stack

3’’ Exhaust (35’’ long resonator and turbo style muffler keeps it pretty quiet)

Kpro Version 3 (PRB-305 ECU)

Tuned by B.R.I.A.N. (Dyno Graph below, my previous k20a2 made 215/156 on the same dynojet)


EP3 Transmission (Purchased with 60k in March 2014, the internals looked great so I just replaced the seals. The LSD, hubs, 36mm axles and related parts all went in at the same time.)

MFactory 1.0 Way Clutch Plate LSD

MFactory Magnetic Drain Bolts (Engine and Trans)

Koyo Differential Bearings

Karcepts 36mm Hubs (/w ARP Studs, Koyo wheel bearings)

MTEC Race Shift Kit (Aluminum Shifter Ball, pivot ball, and race springs)

K Tuned Shift Cables

Hasport Mounts

Hybrid Racing Fuel Rail

Hybrid Racing Clutch Line

Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator

K Tuned Inline Fuel Filter

K Tuned -6AN Braided Fuel Line Kit

K Tuned Shifter Mounting Kit

Fluidyne Half Size Radiator /w Slim Fan

Karcepts Radiator Relocation Kit

Hybrid Racing Swap Harness

Odyssey PC680 Dry Cell Battery (In trunk)



Wheels & Tires

15x6.5 Steelies with 205/50/15 Yokohama S. Drives. I use these for storage, or in case I need to drive the car on the street.


15x8 +35 Kosei K1, The hub bores were machined from Miata to Honda hub bore, no spacer required. These wheels were bought from a racer, one has some minor curbing and another has some more significant gouging. I bought them this way; they’ve all held air and balanced perfectly over the 2 years I’ve been auto crossing on them and it has never worried me.


225/45 Z214 C71 with 6 events, lots of life left


Suspension – was bone stock until early 2013, it’s been developed over that time. All parts purchased new.


Corner Balancing & Alignments by Albert @ APEX ALIGNMENT – All specs on file

Modified Manual Steering Rack with Quafie 2.5 LTL (QSF10U001) quick ratio kit for the 4th gen civic/crx. The rack was rebuilt when this was done; here’s my write-up: http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3170268

I also have all the parts necessary for Power Steering except a high pressure line (custom/w JIC fittings= $50): totally rebuilt integra rack, Tsx pump, rsx reservoir and Hybrid racing low profile –AN adapter)

Koni SPSS3 Race Shocks

Ground Control Coil over Sleeves

Eibach Springs (600/750)

HardRace Top Hat Bushings

HardRace Front and Rear Upper Control Arms

HardRace Front Compliance Bushings

HardRace Front Lower Control Arm Bushings

HardRace Rear Trailing Arm Bushings

HardRace Rear Toe Links

Moog Balljoints

GSR Front Strut Brace

GSR Front Lower Trailing Arms (For swaybar mounting points)

GSR Front Sway bar components (endlinks, bushings, brackets, hardware)

GSR 24mm Front Sway Bar

Skunk 2 Rear LCAs (Came with the car, and they have 3 swaybar mounting points)

ASR Rear Subframe Brace

ASR 24mm Rear Sway Bar

ASR Spherical Sway Bar Endlinks

94-97 Integra 1’’ Master Cylinder and Brake Booster

98-01 Accord EX 4-Cyl Front Calipers

94-01 Integra Rear Calipers

Hawk HP+ Pads

Stainless Steel Brake Lines

949 Racing Lug Nuts




Painted by the previous owner. Body/interior is Frost White, Roof is black, bay is blue. Paint has held up very well over the time I’ve owned the car but it has nicks and dings, most from me being careless with tools. I’d rate it 8/10.


There was a small bit of rust in the driver side rear fender lip. I painted it with POR15 when I bought the car and it hasn’t changed/spread at all. 2 small bubbles in the paint and the rest was only in the inner lip of the fender, and isn’t visible without getting under the car. Rest of underside is super clean, definitely never saw real winters.


The hood has 3 dings from below where it was hitting when I first swapped the K24 and RBC.


A leaky brake master cylinder caused some paint wrinkling in that corner of the bay. It was replaced with a new oem MC.


Interior is in awesome shape, (I remove the radio, speakers, rear seats, seatbelts and cargo cover per SMF rules, but I have them, they are in perfect condition).


Ultrashield 15’’ Spec Miata Seat

BuddyClub Super Lowdown Sliders

Momo Monte Carlo Wheel

Momo 4911 Hub

1995 Si Interior

OEM Si Front Lip, Radio Block off Plate, Antenna Block off Plate, Rear Wiper Plug, Mud Guards


Recently Replaced OEM Parts (Off the top of my head)

Front Upper and lower ball joints

Hood latch assembly

Hood hinges

Wheel Bearings

Axle boots/grease

Window Regulators

100% of the wiring (Cabin, Charge, Engine, Swap, taillight harness)

Radiator Hoses

Front Sway Bar Bushings, End links, Hardware

Brake Hardlines

Brake Master Cylinder

All motor and transmission seals

Serpentine Belt

Belt Tensioner

Hardware everywhere

02 Sensor




The parts necessary for Power Steering except a high pressure line (custom/w JIC fittings= $50): totally rebuilt integra rack, Tsx pump, rsx reservoir)

Assorted spare engine sensors

Pair of OEM 36mm Axles, various 32mm axles in several states of completion, 32mm hubs

21mm EG EX Front sway bar with endlinks, bushings, brackets ect.

1” Brake MCs, OEM soft lines, hardlines

Wiring harnesses (extra engine and swap harness, wiring for radio and power door panels too)

Remains of my missshifted K20 (block, oil pump, water pump,rods, pistons, timing chain, guides ect.)

PRB ECU with V1 Kpro that isn’t working 100%(It ran my k20a2 well but won’t connect to K Manager, Hondata should be able to fix it)

Assorted bushings and control arms

Assorted Seals, gaskets, ect.

Type S Flywheel, clutch and Pressure Plate /w 50k

All the under dash components needed to install A/C, heater (Heater core, cabin fan, EVAP box)

Anything else that isn’t coming to mind at this moment, any other Honda parts I have are yours


















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