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Smike

HPDE **4** Drivers Here! (2015)

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Smike

Not clear yet.

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Smike

Piston cracked (cast) on bank 1.

 

1344AD6E-97D1-490D-A2BC-5FC1DBCFF491.jpg

 

Bank 2 had a cracked one as well that had not fully let go yet.

 

235062A9-3D15-49FC-9B2D-2D22D0A69221.jpg

 

830DD531-7D95-42F1-8F63-87AC76647A8C.jpg

 

7CE84E9F-C735-417F-BF68-E1714F377F04.jpg

 

85450BD8-1AF8-419A-A3D8-511BAE732EBA.jpg

 

For giggles:

Hole in oil pan: Windage try was also in 4 pieces.

547A4516-A243-4477-9776-D827ABEBBAD6.jpg

 

Inside block:

EE33FEE6-0F88-4DB1-9527-8525E783E530.jpg

 

Crankshaft:

C284D907-275F-4FF5-8C2B-872D37743DC7.jpg

 

Oil pickup:

C5061E43-4BE7-404B-8947-205B06D5DFC2.jpg

 

What is left of the piston and conrod.

70A3636F-850E-4A0B-BA24-C42BBC062CE4.jpg

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427R

What a mess. Perfect opportunity to put in a Coyote or even better the new Voodoo engine...yea baby!!

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Smike

Ha, next round. I wanted to use the 3.5TT but they dont have the ECU out for it yet to make it plug and play.

 

Lowered my redline to 6900 (from 7k OK and 7500 tuned). Little more insurance against stressing the cast pistons at high RPM.

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427R

The 3.5TT would do the trick, 365HP - 420 TQ, that's peppy, more tq than the Roush. Have been wondering, since it looks like TT is the way to go, if Ford has been doing any R&D on a TT V8. Now that would be awesome.

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Smike
The 3.5TT would do the trick, 365HP - 420 TQ, that's peppy, more tq than the Roush. Have been wondering, since it looks like TT is the way to go, if Ford has been doing any R&D on a TT V8. Now that would be awesome.

 

Not that I've heard. The new Shelby 350s v8 is pretty trick. I'd imagine there are still ponies that can be released in tuning that car a little more.

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427R

Don't have any pictures, my project is/was not as catastrophic as Mikes. After getting the oil cooler line replaced and re-routed, I removed the front calipers and rotors to better clean up the oil that got all over the wheel well, suspension, etc.. I knew I was needing to replace the brake pads, especially the oil soaked ones on the drivers side, and upon cleaning and looking closely at the calipers, the piston boots had tears in them on both calipers. I was needing to repair or replace the caliper on the drivers side, as the threads on the caliper for the bridge bolts were becoming stripped. So, rebuild the caliper and repair the threads or buy new calipers...hmmm. Seeing that, to repair the threads, requires the caliper housings be separated and that this was gonna be an involved rebuild, I opted to buy new calipers. Found out my OEM StopTech BBK's were a Stage 2 and StopTech now has Stage 4 out so the new ones were a good move. Major difference is new calipers weigh less, but stronger metal. After ordering new calipers, I decided to tackle the rebuild anyway on the old ones this winter, to be backups, so I ordered the hardware needed and the thread repair kit. I also noticed my brake rings were getting close to needing to be replaced as well, so ordered some new rings. Will start working on the rotors and installing the new calipers this weekend, shouldn't take long, bleeding the brakes usually takes longer. Had just rebuilt the calipers this past winter, adding new pistons, boots, pressure seals, etc. Guess I'm becoming harder on the braking as I hear some folks have to rebuild their calipers many times a season. Looking forward to getting back on track, been a long dry spell since NCM.

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