S197 k member question- you seemed like good guys to ask!

[Duane Black]

Hi there! I autocross and run HPDE, and recently began instructing in nasa. I dont run spec iron, but you guys seemed to be good ones to ask. 

 

Some seen to think my s197 v6 could use a lighter k member like the offering from bmr. I have also seen a maximum motorsports offering that weighs in similar to the stock part on an s197 but provides rigedity. I understand many parts suppliers for Mustangs are primarily geared towards drag racing and sometimes it feels like us track guys have to fend for out selves when it comes to reliable information. 

 

I am also concerned about shifting the engine too much. I dont want to cause issues with the tolerance on the cv joint on my DSS aluminum shaft, and I dont want to be in a modifying position where one modification decision leads to another modification system where another $240 control arm is now necessary to band aid the $550 modification you just made.

So, would any track guy pulling 1.2 g at 100 mph with a sense of self preservation lighten a structural piece like a k member by 20 lbs if all he cares to do is run hpde and rules allow it? Or should he invest his $550 in a solid life insurance plan instead?

 

link if interested:https://www.jegs.com/i/BMR-Suspension/142/KM018R/10002/-1

[Roman V.]

7 hours ago, Duane Black said:

Hi there! I autocross and run HPDE, and recently began instructing in nasa. I dont run spec iron, but you guys seemed to be good ones to ask. 

 

Some seen to think my s197 v6 could use a lighter k member like the offering from bmr. I have also seen a maximum motorsports offering that weighs in similar to the stock part on an s197 but provides rigedity. I understand many parts suppliers for Mustangs are primarily geared towards drag racing and sometimes it feels like us track guys have to fend for out selves when it comes to reliable information. 

 

I am also concerned about shifting the engine too much. I dont want to cause issues with the tolerance on the cv joint on my DSS aluminum shaft, and I dont want to be in a modifying position where one modification decision leads to another modification system where another $240 control arm is now necessary to band aid the $550 modification you just made.

So, would any track guy pulling 1.2 g at 100 mph with a sense of self preservation lighten a structural piece like a k member by 20 lbs if all he cares to do is run hpde and rules allow it? Or should he invest his $550 in a solid life insurance plan instead?

 

link if interested:https://www.jegs.com/i/BMR-Suspension/142/KM018R/10002/-1

Your stock K-Member is plenty strong. The only reason to go with the aftermarket one, is to achieve a better suspension geometry and reduce weight. It also requires lots of other modifications to the front of the car. Maximum piece would be my choice as they are heavily involved in road racing and HPDE scene. They have great tech information on every part they sell. Hope this helps. 

https://www.maximummotorsports.com/MM-K-member-Mustang-2005-2014-P1476.aspx

[Duane Black]

I am looking at weight reduction in several ways and trying to determine how to get there. Off the front axle seems a great way to start.. but doing so safely is important as well. I could trim about 10 lbs by getting boss 302 seats (airbag needed) or the stock mufflers are heavy so I could swap out for something lightr.. but who wants a loud v6 ricer muscrat?

Edited January 27, 2019 by Duane Black

[Roman V.]

2 hours ago, Duane Black said:

I am looking at weight reduction in several ways and trying to determine how to get there. Off the front axle seems a great way to start.. but doing so safely is important as well. I could trim about 10 lbs by getting boss 302 seats (airbag needed) or the stock mufflers are heavy so I could swap out for something lightr.. but who wants a loud v6 ricer muscrat?

It seems that the Maximum K memebr for S-197 is actually a little havier than stock but offers better grip levels in the front. 

I would do a lighter hood, seats. Not much you can do if you want to keep comfortable on the street, i.e. removing AC.

 

Roman

[Al F.]

Are you changing alignment, spring rates, and shock settings between street and track? If not, I would suggest your car set up is well below the point where the difference one k-member over another provides will be noticeable. That's not a personal dig mind you, its just acknowledging that a car doing street and track duty is making huge compromises anyway and there are other areas where you can focus that will get you better results. Invest that money in more track time and have fun!!

[427R]

On ‎4‎/‎2‎/‎2019 at 5:13 PM, Charger said:

Are you changing alignment, spring rates, and shock settings between street and track? If not, I would suggest your car set up is well below the point where the difference one k-member over another provides will be noticeable. That's not a personal dig mind you, its just acknowledging that a car doing street and track duty is making huge compromises anyway and there are other areas where you can focus that will get you better results. Invest that money in more track time and have fun!!

Concur.  HPDE is mostly improving, tweaking and mastering the track skills you're acquiring and learning more about what the car likes and dislikes. If and when you decide to take it to another level, is when you might want to begin making changes to the car, but do so with the understanding that changing "A" will also effect "B" and so on....

[Duane Black]

I’m DE4 and instructing so I think I’m there, respectfully. ?

[Royster]

I had a Kenny Brown suspension system put on my S197, making a very big difference in handling.  They have different set-ups depending on how aggressive you want to drive your car on the track from a street performer up to a club racer.  It will cost much much more than $550, but the difference it makes will be worth the investment IF you mean to prioritize your car's purpose for the track.  What you get on the track detracts from your street ride, so if you're not serious about your car being high priority on the track over your street rideability, I can't see investing that kind of money unless you have money to burn.  I installed the coil over springs & dampers with the lower control arms as well as the kit to change the rear axle geometry.  Together they made the biggest difference.  With the chassis braces, I run the car without the rear sway bar and get great handling on the track.   

[Dongle]

The Cortex SLA system will drop almost 90 lbs off of the front of an S197, that would be the way to go if you are concerned about weight.  I would run the Maximum over the BMR for sure.

I run the Cortex setup in American Iron and it is significantly better than the strut front end. And like the others said a light weight hood with vents is worth more than the weight loss alone.  I gain 2 seconds a lap running a Tiger racing vented hood over a solid one due to the increased grip from not lifting the front wheels.

Edited April 20, 2019 by Dongle