Snakin Posted June 16, 2003 Posted June 16, 2003 I hope I might get some help with a cooling problem I'm having with my 94 5.0. I ran in the HPDE4/TT session at Willow Springs recently and was not able to stop my temps from continually going up, to the point that I had to come in early, after 4-6 laps, so as not to blow anything. At that stage I had already put in a 180 thermostat but that obviously wasnt working well enough. Last week I put in an aluminum Fluidyne radiator, and had reason to drive to Las Vegas in the last few days so I had a good chance to test things out in similar temps. Although it seemed to be a little more stable, unfortunately I had the same problem. As soon as I started to push the engine, the temp would start to climb. I am running a 75/25 water/coolant mix with a bottle of Redline as well. Any info or tips/tricks from anyone about how to control this situation would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Brett Quote
Richard Pryor1548534703 Posted June 16, 2003 Posted June 16, 2003 I've found that on both Fords and Chevies, the key to race track cooling is proper air intake, what that means is getting the maximum air through the radiator..I know this sounds basic but at racing rpm and speed you need to shroud the radiator and direct all possible air flow through it..seal that sucker up with no-gap shrouds and your temps will run constant...and use redline water wetter or equal...and a good water pump...and a BeCool radiator or equivalent...and water hoses that do not collapse at high rpm and temperatures (really critical)...do this and you won't have any cooling problems... Quote
Snakin Posted June 17, 2003 Author Posted June 17, 2003 Thanks for the info on the hoses and shroud, could you give me any recommendations on what hoses and where to buy them? Thanks Quote
Richard Pryor1548534703 Posted June 18, 2003 Posted June 18, 2003 you can purchase custom length Blue Sport Performance Silcone Hoses and accessories from Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies...800-688-6946...they have all sizes up to 2.5 inches and elbow joints and aluminum nipples for splicing the hoses...you can custom plumb your car with all these pieces and eliminate one source of cooling failure...stock rubber hoses will collapse under racing and, along with improper shrouding, is the cause of overheating in 90% of all racing applications I've seen. Pegasus has so much cool stuff in their catalog that only racers will appreciate...they even have fuel sampling ports with hose for $24!!...required for SCCA and why isn't NASA checking the fuel?..have you sniffed some of those exhaust fumes in AIX and AI? (Of course, no one in CMC would run power boosting additives). Quote
Members Al F. Posted June 18, 2003 Members Posted June 18, 2003 Whatever you do snakin, don't ask Tony for cooling advice on Mustangs! Just kidding Tony...couldn't resist. Quote
Tony G Posted June 20, 2003 Posted June 20, 2003 Al, Your right cooling is not fun on My 95 Gt Mustang..But here goes. Take out your thermostat,put in a big radiator,duct it all in and get a good water pump( like a Stewart).This should solve the problems. One more thing,are you running pulleys to slow down the pump,Stewart advises against this. Tony Quote
[email protected] Posted June 22, 2003 Posted June 22, 2003 A couple more things: you can run a rad cap with 25-30 psi blow off, the suction side hose going to the water pump needs a spring inside so it won't collaspe and the CMC rules let you cut some more holes for air inlet. Quote
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