Jump to content

kill switch...again


Al F.

Recommended Posts

  • Members

Some of you may remember me sitting dead on the starting grid at Sears last year and how it ended up being due to a bad kill switch. Well, today I went out to test my rewiring after relocating the battery...and nothing, no juice anywhere. So I start testing around, and the damn kill switch is bad again!!!

 

So...any suggestions on kill switches? The first one was a Sytec with the removable key. This last one was a Longacre. Maybe it didn't like running in the rain and then being ignored for four months?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Al, may not be your kill switch. You may have a starter going bad. I've seen a few that would still turn over the car, but were drawing around 800 amps continous. No kill switch can stand that for very long. Just a thought and hope it helps. Most auto shops have amp meters that are the inductive kind , (snap-on), that can read up to 1000 amps. Good hunting .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

hahaha Brad, you are so...funny

 

John, thanks for the tip. My voltmeter has a continuity test and it fails that. If I bypass the switch everything works perfect. I guess its better than replacing a starter!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You're right Tony, I'm all about being the 'driver'.

 

And yeah, I did look at the back of your Mustang (pretty colors by the way), let's see.... in three of the nine times we were on the track together.

 

I suppose you'll come up with some lame excuse for the other six! Probably somthing like mechanical failures.

 

Heh - let's all hope for a pain-free year - for both camps...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Al - I went with the Moroso unit from Summit. I don't have the p/n handy, but its the one with the alternator kill on it as well. I think it was about $40 or so..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Al your problem might be that you need

a starter solenoid between the switch and

starter . starting amps. are some time to

high for the switch to handle over the long

usage

Sam

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Al,

Have you checked the loose nut behind the wheel..I'll bet you will find that's your problem.

Who sold you that car anyway??

Did you get a 5 year extended warranty when you bought it,or was it the tail light warranty??

Tony

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

Oh yeah, a warranty would've been nice. Actually I think the car has been very reliable, considering how I treat it.

 

Sam...really? I've never heard of that. You would think considering how big these are they'd be indestructable.

 

Steve...I'm interrupting the excitation signal to the alternator.

 

I put in another Longacre switch in the car, and another one in a box in the trailer. Maybe I should wire them both up and have redundant switches!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...