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Paging Julie!


Ed Varon

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Hey Julie,

 

I'm considering changing my car over to a carb because I'm sick of these electronic gremlins.

 

 

I'm very courious what your dyno numbers look like.

 

-Ed

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Hey Ed, my dyno figs are not that impressive, but my car is fast. Why don't you drive it the next time you see me so you can see if you like a well set-up carb CMC car? I will get you the dyno figs and post them here. I am moving so everything is buried under deep piles of you know what!

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My main motivation is to get away from the computer and all these damn sensors......

 

There is something to be said for simplicity.....

 

The only carbed CMC Mustang in Texas.....and lov'n it.

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No self respecting engineer would willingly run a carburator!

 

I understand Ed. I know I really like FI, but all of my electrical problems can be traced to a silly ignition system which a carb wouldn't fix.

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Al,

 

I ran my AI mustang for two years with no "mystery problems" anything that broke was easy to ID and fix.....

 

I know lots of people have great success running the FI and computer but I seem to have the worst luck!

 

-E

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Ed,

 

My car is an 85 GT, so it was carbed from the factory. The previous owner kept it that way, and TBH, I'm glad he did. I ran a Vortech-blown 1986 GT with EFI, and loved it. For the race car, however, I'm glad it's carbed.

 

If you have EFI, no way would it make sense to convert it to carb - too expensive. If it was originally a carbed car, keep it that way.

 

That's not to say I haven't had some issues with it - a bad distributor really caused me fits back in March. Once I got it figured out, it's run very well. I keep a spare distributor, and spare Duraspark box just in case ( my spares list is freak'n huge! ).

 

Dyno numbers are good - 222rwhp/270rwtq. The TQ # is a tad low, as the previous owner put a 3" exhaust on it - IMO, it's just too large for a stock motor. Right now, it doesn't seem to be hurting anything, as I beat Todd last weekend.

 

Dyno Sheet:

 

cmc-05-dyno1.jpg[/img]

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Ed,

We run a carb due to simplicity-it's what we know. Our motor was freshly rebuilt, used the 1983 heads that were on it, the legal edelbrock cam and intake and brand new Holley. The distributor was a stock Autozone rebuild (get the lifetime warrantee and never buy another.) Just plug a hot wire into it and and it works like magic. We got 200 hp and 250 lbs/torque with jet changes on the dyno, and no muffler. Since you went by me like a scalded cat, you'll know I'm not fibbing on the power, now I just have to figure out where to find the other 30 hp and 50lbs of torque. We couldn't get the car over 175 degrees F when we wre making the dyno pulls. It just wouldn't run any hotter.

 

Tony did tell me that a carb spacer is not legal.

See you at Willow Springs.

 

Kevin Hall

#82 CMC Camaro.

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Kevin and all- with the CMC spec carb set-up there is not much more torque, the best I have been able to get out of my rebuilt set-up like yours is 266ft-lbs. HP best has been around 230, however that was when we had a cat-back exhaust (3" all the way) and ran this set-up lean to get this #. We changed the exhaust this season to a shorter dumping 3" with a free-flowing muffler and our HP dropped to about 216. We know we need to do some dyno tuning as this change zapped our mid-range power.

 

Ed- after talking to my sponsor who does the fine work with my motor - he said about $1K(Holley, Edelbrock cam and manifold) for you to convert, your alternator wiring from the TPI may not work. He suggest you spend some $ to maybe get the electrical gremlins before you convert.

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Kevin, Julie,

 

After seeing the dyno numbers and cost , I'm re-thinking the plan.

Right now I make 211 hp with 294 Tq and I'd really hate to lose 20-30 ftlbs of torque....

 

 

Thanks to everyone for the feedback and see you at Willow Springs , that is if we get this #%$^ over heating problem resolved.

 

 

-Ed

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Ed,

Since we set up the wiring and stuff ourselves on the Camaro, and a couple of Chevelles, if you want to take a peek at our wiring that's cool. If you go away from TPI, I think you'll need to get a distributor from a non-computer controlled car, ie a 1975 something with HEI. That'll set you back another 125 at Autozone. Summit or JEGS have the carb, intake, and if you need it, the cam (I assume you already have a cam in that car from the #s your getting), spinning the wrenches is pretty easy for an intake and carb iswap. Just don't put the distributor in backwards, like I do pretty much every time-you know it's in in 180 out when it backwafires and shoots fire up the carb. Don't lean in too close, that fire plume can singe your eyebrows off.

 

We're running the griffin Aluminum radiator everyone suggested, I found it for about $185, and with the ducting and a big ole flex fan on the water pump, it never got over 180 at Buttonwillow, and we ran the car 8 times each day.

Kevin

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Kevin,

Correct you can not use a carb spacer.

Ed,

I would stick with the TPI,as the torque is way more important than the HP anyday

One more thing,

Check to see if your radiator may be clogged up..I have seen these more than once having a problem with crap inside the tubes,this happened to me after the radiator was only one year old.

Tony

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Tony - can you expand on the carb spacer thing? I need to find a (legal) way to stop fuel boil in the carb, and had the idea of a 1/4-1/2" phenolic carb spacer. Looks like I need to rethink that idea.....

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Carb spacers need to be legal, don't ya think? I had a short one before I found out it was illegal, I was not even close to the legal rule 230hp and 300- ft/lbs tq. with that on the car. We need to focus on some low budget things that will bring this GM spec carb motor to parity with the TPI and especially the LT1 motors.

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We're with with Julie, if anyone has some suggestions on how to get some more power out of the Chevy carb motor, I'd sure appreciate them. We could lean it out a bit more, but are running the smallest jets in our jet kit, and I'd like to keep the motor together, so don't want it too lean. We're thinking a muffler may help as well, since we're running straight pipes right now. Any suggestions?

Kevin

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Kevin, I went this season from the Flowmaster American Thunder cat back system (3") to a shorter 3" dump and free flowing muffler and lost some power. It seems some back pressure is needed and this certainly fits in theory with the carb motors.

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Kevin, Julie,

 

Are you guys running a heat shield at the base of the carb? That may help with the fuel boiling problem.

 

 

-Ed

(sticking with TPI for now)

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Ed,

We haven't had the fuel boiling problem, yet, so haven't woried about the heat shield. I did see that JEGS has one for about 20 bucks for our squarebore carbs. I wonder if it would cool the fuel a bit, and make more power. Once I get some money back in the race account, I'll probably look into some sort of muffler to see if we can pick up some more giddyup.

Kevin

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We're running the griffin Aluminum radiator everyone suggested, I found it for about $185, and with the ducting and a big ole flex fan on the water pump, it never got over 180 at Buttonwillow, and we ran the car 8 times each day.

Kevin

 

WHHAAAA???

 

What are you shifting at - 2,800? Hell, I run 180 on the grid. My STREET car runs hotter than that.

 

Sheesh!

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Brad,

I have a feeling when we add 30 more hp, it may run hotter. Heck my 'Vette runs a lot hotter, but after having a TR3 for 20 years and never being able to sit for more than 2-3 minutes without it getting hot, it is kind of nice not to panic about cooling all the time. I even questioned the temp gauge was accurate, myself, but hit it with the infrared and it was right around 175-180.

 

I think Dave's custom air box may help a lot, too. Everything on the front of the car seems to direct air through the radiator.

 

 

And the shift light comes on at 4,800. Otherwise Tigger starts nagging at me. You'd think he'd be happy riding around in the country rather than staring down a concrete wall like he's had to do for the last 4 years.

Kevin

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