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brake system questions.


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I hope you guys can give me some advice in the brake department, I have a 93 Z28 that I run in time trials, and use on the street for weekend driving. on the street the car is ok but at the track I have to bleed the brakes after every 15-20 min. run. Is this the norm?

My brake system is completely stock, is that the problem?

What do you guys run? (master,calipers,pads,fluid,rotors)

How often do you have to bleed if at all?


I put the car into the wall at Loudon NH last year and think it's time for brake upgrade to avoid another crash!


Any advice would be helpful




Tom G

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We ran our first race with stock brakes on our '83 Z28, and promptly ungraded to 1LE fronts. We went through pads, and then it got so bad I was just happy to make the end of the race with any pedal at all. After the 1LE change the biggest issue has been keeping the bias adjusted to stop the rear wheel hop.

Kevin Hall

#82 So Cal Camaro

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I used to have to bleed my brakes after every session and went through a set of pads each weekend. Now I'll bleed my brakes once a weekend on the brake intense tracks and not at all on the others. Pads now are lasting 3 weekends. This big improvement came as a result of learning how to drive better and not abusing the brakes. Of course I started with decent brakes and did some minor changes such as brake compound.


That being said, there is a relatively inexpensive brake upgrade available for LT1 cars. The 98+ brakes are readily available and offer a substantial improvement over the 93-97 brakes. You can readily find both the fronts and rears available on Ebay. The fronts are much more important. While installing the LS1 brakes you should consider installing stainless steel brake lines, not completely for performance reasons though, they add some abrasion resistance and possibly a little more safety margin. Brake cooling is another key to brake durability, if you don't have brake ducts, get them! Installing a brake bias valve will allow you to get more out of your rear brakes. The factory bias is skewed away from the rear brakes to prevent spins while braking in low traction situations.


As far as specific parts, I use Motul 600 fluid, Hawk HT-10 pads on the front and Earl's stainless steel lines. I use pretty much generics for the rest of the parts: master, rotors, calipers and rear pads. Hope this helps.




In my 3rd gen, wheel hop under braking is typically caused by clutch mismanagement. If it engages too quickly with a big mismatch in engine rpm versus car speed I'll get wheel hop. Rear spring rates and shock settings play also play a big role in how much wheel hop you will get.



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Thanks Mike, I've been learning that too. Guess that's what happens when you go from a TR3 2.2 litre, hydralic clutch and 4 speed to a healthy chevy small block and clutch. I've found a bit of throttle helps stop it, but is a little eerie during braking for turn 11 at Sears Point!

See you in a week and a half.


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I have a 1995 Firebird with LS1 front brakes and get about 6-8 races out of a set of pads, at least 10 races out of rotors and I change brake fluid only due to paranoia. I use:


Castrol SRF Brake Fluid

CarboTech Panther XP1109's

Brembo OE rotors

Stainless Brake Lines

Everything else factory stock


It doesn't really get that hot here...


I know people that run stock LT1 setups and they are a little more fragile (for lack of a better term) when it comes to heat. If I were you, I'd cruise e-bay for the LS1 front pieces. There is usually at least one setup listed. It's worth the money to have that larger heat sink with the bigger rotors.

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