cmc35 Posted December 17, 2007 Share Posted December 17, 2007 Mike - typical race temp is 185 without the fan. Temp can reach ~200 on a long straight, but then cools back down. Temps were very similar with the fan. Good suggestions about leakdown, compression, etc. I checked the compression earlier this year, and I can't find my notes right now, but all 8 cylinders were within 1 or 2 pounds of each other, and all right where they were supposed to be. The engine has ~11000 miles on it; 8000 at Bondurant, 3000 since I bought it. Valve springs, retainers, keepers and seals were replaced 200 miles before I bought the car. I'll definitely keep looking, checking, etc. It's a long winter here in the mountains. thanks, chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Ginsberg Posted December 17, 2007 Share Posted December 17, 2007 (edited) Does Adam G. run any Cobra parts? Because I would be willing to bet he has the sweetest CMC motor in the whole country. I would love to have his torque curve. Negative. No Cobra/GT40 parts on my beast....just a carb'd 302. One of the few remaining in the US, I think. I've played around with exhaust for a few years ( 3" exhaust that came with it, cheapie MAC 2.5" X-pipe, Dr. Gas 2.5" X-pipe, stock Fox3 headers, stock SN95 5.0L headers, 3 different types of mufflers, straight pipes, 2.5" to 2" reducers, etc, etc, etc ), and tried a few different air cleaner setups ( POS small round thing, larger POS round thing, stock 1985 5.0L air cleaner w/original snorkels ) but still can't get it to 300lbs of TQ at the wheels. Since 2004, I've spent ~$1000-$1500 on different exhaust configs. The straight pipes were kinda fun to have for awhile. They made all kinds of sexy noises going down the front straight at Road Atlanta in March. But damn...they are LOUD. Really pissed off my asshole next door neighbor. lol I dunno if I have the "sweetest" CMC motor in the whole country...the TQ is ok, but it's still not up where I'd like it to be - the dyno @ the Nats put it @ 275rwtq. It peaks @ ~3500, and drops off from there. HP peaks right about ~5000rpm. After much thought over the years, I've stopped spending $$ on changes that might or might not get it to ~300ft/lbs. There's only one more exhaust setup I'd like to try, but it'll run nearly ~$300, and there's other areas I'd prefer to spend that $$ on...like the new seat going in the car in a few weeks ($625). The LT-1 curves are pretty damn sexy, IMO. TQ Down low where you need it for RR'ing. Aw hell...the grass is always greener. BTW - who the hell is Todd Colini? PS what do you guys shift at if you dont mind me asking. Shift points should be based on your dyno information. My peak HP is ~5000-5100. As such, my shift light is set @ 5200, and I will usually shift right on the light. However, there are times I'll hold my next shift, based on track position ( meaning, when the next brake zone/corner is ), track conditions, weather conditions, proximity to another competitor, etc. Edited December 17, 2007 by Guest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboShortBus Posted December 17, 2007 Share Posted December 17, 2007 I'd like to bring the style and grace of the 1970s back to road racing by installing a set of glasspack side pipes on the car that I'm building. Bwow-chk-a-wow-wow... Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j dawes Posted December 17, 2007 Author Share Posted December 17, 2007 Also, keep in mind that a stock, non-Cobra 5.0L will need some speed parts to make 230 rwhp (GT-40 iron heads, Cobra intake, etc.), Want to bet? This was the context from which I was working. I apologize if that wasn't clear, as your response indicates it may have been: We are allowed to change a ton of things that affect power at the rear wheels. Underdrive pulleys. . . far less restrictive exhaust, among other things. . . Lighter wheels and driveshaft and anything that reduces friction in the drivetrain, including the transmission and final gear ratio. My assumption was that those are all considered 'speed bits' as first mentioned by TurboShortBus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacovini Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 Couple more comments based on the above... Mike D...thanks for backin' me up. You're a gentleman & a scholar. I miss having you at our CMC events! Pat S...230/300 is not the end-all panacea. I've been spanked by guys with 215/265 ...and I knew I was had when I pinched a corner, made a poor choice in traffic or just didn't drive as well as that guy. Even when Griffith blew past me in 2006 at Nats, he had a hell of a run coming onto the front straight...I was on/off the throttle in traffic. He capitalized. Chris M...your valvesprings might be suspect. If they were changed right before you bought it, I'd guess that if they weren't optimal...there wasn't much energy for them to change them. Since it's all you know...you might be "satisficing" with an adequate valve job. I'd get a valve job and new springs and bet it wakes the girl up. In the base case...see if you can get them tested. Only takes a few overheats or overrevs and they're toast. Todd CoLini Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboShortBus Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 I just found my brother's dyno sheet for his Spec FFR Cobra about a year and a half ago. The engine was a new, bone-stock 5.0L FRPP crate engine with stock Fox intake, shorty headers, glasspack sidepipes, not sure if he had underdrive pulleys or not, stock throttle body and EGR spacer, not sure if it had power steering or not (but on my buddy's 331, the non-PS "short belt" only made a 3 rwhp difference, weird), and a stock Fox MAF right down to the OEM screen (as per FFR rules at the time). A K&N cone filter was clamped to the MAF. He runs Royal Purple synthetics. I'm not sure what his ignition timing was set at. 3 pulls within 3 minutes during lunch hour, April in Central Florida. Conditions were 85*F, 30.24 in-Hg, 50% humidity (I call shenanigans...when is it ever 85* and only 50% humidity in Florida? lol), SAE 0.99 correction factor. Testing done on a Dynojet. 1 - 222 rwhp / 279 rwtq 2 - 221 rwhp / 277 rwtq 3 - 219 rwhp / 274 rwtq This was all before the camshaft ate the distributor gear and sent the shavings into the engine at a later race. All he did was change the oil and put it back on track the next day with a replacement distributor. I'm not sure how much power it's making now, but it was enough to take 4th at the Nationals this past September. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmc35 Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 Chris M...your valvesprings might be suspect. If they were changed right before you bought it, I'd guess that if they weren't optimal...there wasn't much energy for them to change them. Since it's all you know...you might be "satisficing" with an adequate valve job. I'd get a valve job and new springs and bet it wakes the girl up. In the base case...see if you can get them tested. Only takes a few overheats or overrevs and they're toast. Todd CoLini Great suggestion, Mr CoLini. thanks, chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.