Mike D1548534719 Posted February 23, 2008 Posted February 23, 2008 When I got my car dynoed a couple of weeks ago the dyno tech noticed I had a left rear axle bent, last night I went to change it out I noticed some backed out bolts on the driver side of the rear diff just dangling in there in the side plate that holds the driver side axle from spining, the bolt heads were missing no wear to be found in the carrier housing, I think the bolts were not tightened at the factory correctly and they backed out against the the bearing cap and grinded there way off, there is no wear marks to be found the rear diff fluid does have metal in it but no chunks of bolt heads nor chiped gear teeth, very bizzar, I have know idea how long I have been racing with a one legger I installed this diff back in 5/03 the rear diff cover has not been off since then, Has any body else has had this problem? Mike D Quote
GT4Point6 Posted February 24, 2008 Posted February 24, 2008 I've heard of it on the older units. There is a different amount of bolts in them with the newer having more, not sure about how many, where or anything else (which I'm sure is a great help to you ) My mechanic took my new diff apart, locktited'd and retourqed everthing and then installed it. I just changed my oil last weekend and everthing looks like new after two seasons. If yours is a newer unit, it shouldn't have this problem. Did you try contacting the manufacture, they may have more info on this. Quote
Mike D1548534719 Posted February 25, 2008 Author Posted February 25, 2008 Thanks Kevin, I planned on pulling the unit apart and checking for further damage. and loctiting all the bolts. Mike D Quote
King Matt1548534716 Posted February 25, 2008 Posted February 25, 2008 That was a common problem on older Tru Tracs. The later ones were changed from coarse thread to fine thread bolts and that solved the problem, but you should be able to repair it by replacing the bolts and using Loctite. Quote
doug1548534725 Posted February 25, 2008 Posted February 25, 2008 There also seems to be a "really new" one that just came out with 3 internal gears instead of 2 and a beefier carrier. Quote
rsmith350 Posted February 26, 2008 Posted February 26, 2008 In ya'lls experience what would you say the best "locker" is. Building a third gen camaro. Quote
GT4Point6 Posted February 26, 2008 Posted February 26, 2008 In ya'lls experience what would you say the best "locker" is. Building a third gen camaro. Well the tru-trac isn't a locker, it's like a Torsen T2R but cheaper and a different tq bias. Some like the T2R, some like the TT. Can't speak about a locker, never ran one. That was a common problem on older Tru Tracs. The later ones were changed from coarse thread to fine thread bolts and that solved the problem, but you should be able to repair it by replacing the bolts and using Loctite. Ya ya, that's what I meant to say in my post I knew someone had the good scoop on the issue. Thanks Matt! Quote
Tony G Posted February 26, 2008 Posted February 26, 2008 Detroit locker in my car. Get used to it and you will love it. Never lets you down. Tony Guaglione Quote
Lady in Nomex Posted February 28, 2008 Posted February 28, 2008 The True Trac did not perform as well as the Zexel Torsen T2R or the Detroit Locker for me. With a third gen your best combo with the modern 10 bolt (28 spline) is the T2R. The True Trac is bascially an older design of the T2R. I hear there is a new road race version of the True Trac that is biased better than the non-road race unit, I know one person who is using it an so far they are thumbs up. That is in a 4th gen with 10bolt. I had a bullet-proof combo with a Dana 44 and Detroit Locker in my third gen but good luck finding one, and the weight of the Dana 44 is not something you need in a CMC car. 10 bolts are much lighter and I have not broken any with the T2R in the many years I have been using that set-up with two different 4th gens, one with a lot more hp than a CMC car. The T2R and other limited slip units are much easier for most people to drive than a Detroit Locker. I think both are very good. The DL needs quite a bit of soft suspension tuning to get the push down to an acceptable level, at least it did in my car. Some folks just don't like any kind of push, and that is a large amount of people racing these days. If you want bullet proof the DL is always there; if you have "good feet (takes a good understanding of how the DL works)," can tolerate a little push and a big initial investment of a Dana 44 for your third gen that option may be good for you. Do a search on my username and you'll get a lot of useful info on this topic. Quote
Mike D1548534719 Posted February 29, 2008 Author Posted February 29, 2008 Thank you all for the input its all put back together and race ready, I hope Mike D Quote
Tony G Posted February 29, 2008 Posted February 29, 2008 Note to self: Stay in front of Mike first time out on Saturday. Tony Guaglione Quote
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